Slr to use with glasses

Streetmaniac

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After running this post with the question about a 35mm lens for m mount i had a great disappointment. I borrowed an m6 for 1 week to test the waters and i cant see the framelines of the 35mm with my glasses on well. I also started thinking that maybe sometime i will want 28mm( you know how these things change). What will i do then ? I am very sceptical to throw 2k for a camera and a lens that doesnt make me happy 100%. Is there any film slr with a good viewfinder for glasses and easy focusing too ? I had the nikon f3hp 3 years ago, great camera great viewfinder but i couldnt focus 100% accurate, maybe more 70-80% most of the time and the camera with lens were for sure heavy. I wouldnt mind the weight if the viewfinder was very good for my needs( be able to see whole frame without moving eyes around, be able to get tack sharp focus easy). What would you suggest ?
 
After running this post with the question about a 35mm lens for m mount i had a great disappointment. I borrowed an m6 for 1 week to test the waters and i cant see the framelines of the 35mm with my glasses on well. I also started thinking that maybe sometime i will want 28mm( you know how these things change). What will i do then ? I am very sceptical to throw 2k for a camera and a lens that doesnt make me happy 100%. Is there any film slr with a good viewfinder for glasses and easy focusing too ? I had the nikon f3hp 3 years ago, great camera great viewfinder but i couldnt focus 100% accurate, maybe more 70-80% most of the time and the camera with lens were for sure heavy. I wouldnt mind the weight if the viewfinder was very good for my needs( be able to see whole frame without moving eyes around, be able to get tack sharp focus easy). What would you suggest ?
The hexar-rf or m6 0.58 might be for you....
 
I find the Pentax Spotmatic series good to use while wearing glasses. They have pretty good eye relief (distance your eye has to be from the viewfinder) and a plastic eyepiece with beveled/rounded edges so no scratches on your eyeglasses lenses. You can find them for less than $100 and really nice ones for less than $200 with a lens. And the Pentax Takumar lenses for these cameras are fantastic.

You might want to try an SLR that has interchangeable focusing screens (which the Spotmatic series does not have) so you can experiment and decide whether a microprism focusing spot or split-image works better for you. I have both types and don't have a strong preference either way.
 
If I were in your place I'd go for 28mm straight away and skip the 35mm intermediary.

To elaborate, 50mm and 35mm are closer together visually speaking than many think. It's mainly a difference in depth of field. The perceived depth (i.e. an image looks wide) often comes from the composition employing leading lines etc.

The reason for this argument being: buy a used or new cheap-ish Cosina VC LTM 28mm lens (I believe they released a 2.8 one recently?) get a 28mm finder and throw it on any Japanese LTM body that you can find. Use an external plastic 28mm finder with low mag (these exist) this way you should be able to see most of the frame and no need to do much rangefinder focusing with a 28mm - even wide open. Just set it to 3m and "be there" as they say.

If it has to be a SLR: The spotmatic has OK eye relief and is cheap. You can also glue a bit of rubber to the eye-cup to make extra sure that it won't scratch your glasses.

Edit: ah beaten on the spotmatic
 
I find 35mm framelines in M6 very usable with glasses, thing is you need proper glasses so they sit close to your eye. Years ago I found it's easier to choose right glasses for photography that trying to find a right camera, suddenly most of them will work just fine.
 
I'd have to agree with @TenEleven - as someone who wears pretty thick glasses, the 28mm framelines on any regular M-mount rangefinder are useless to me, and the 35mm ones are typically quite close to the edge. That's part of the reason I opted to stick with LTM rangefinders - smaller setups, and if I'm going to be using an external finder, I might as well have the smaller body to go with it.

External finders are anathema to a lot of people, but honestly, as someone who wears glasses, they're a godsend. You can get exactly the view you want with the right amount of eye relief for you. I use an old Zeiss viewfinder for the Contax II with 28mm lenses - no framelines, but a great, clear, and large finder.
 
If you want a cheap SLR and lenses that you can easily use with glasses and is a reliable performer, Canon AE-1. I have one with a 28mm Soligor and can easily see all four corners and can focus without issue. Plus it has a plastic eyepiece frame so it should be a bit kinder to your eyeglasses (not that you necessarily need to push your face right against the back of the camera). Low financial outlay and plentiful good lenses for cheap, nice easy-to-see viewfinder.
 
After running this post with the question about a 35mm lens for m mount i had a great disappointment. I borrowed an m6 for 1 week to test the waters and i cant see the framelines of the 35mm with my glasses on well. I also started thinking that maybe sometime i will want 28mm( you know how these things change). What will i do then ? I am very sceptical to throw 2k for a camera and a lens that doesnt make me happy 100%. Is there any film slr with a good viewfinder for glasses and easy focusing too ? I had the nikon f3hp 3 years ago, great camera great viewfinder but i couldnt focus 100% accurate, maybe more 70-80% most of the time and the camera with lens were for sure heavy. I wouldnt mind the weight if the viewfinder was very good for my needs( be able to see whole frame without moving eyes around, be able to get tack sharp focus easy). What would you suggest ?
1 - No camera is perfect for all uses or all eyes. Ever.

2 - I wear glasses too. With any Leica M having a 0.72x finder, the 28mm frame lines are outside of my easy viewing reach. Solution: for 28mm (just like with shorter focal lengths) I use an accessory viewfinder. 35mm is fine for my eyes/glasses on 0.72x, but on my M6TTL 0.85x the 35mm frame lines replace the 28mm as being 'just uncomfortably' out of easy viewing reach—same solution. (I have collected, over the years, viewfinders for 15, 21, 24, 28, 35, 40, 50, 75, 90, and 135 focal lengths... They come in handy with RF cameras, albeit I use the 28 and 21 the most.) I've not had the 0.58x version of the M to experiment with.

3 - SLR cameras have their own set of viewing issues and, again, none are perfect for all uses or all eyes. My gold standard viewfinder in a 35mm SLR was the Nikon F3T with high eyepoint prism finder, I could always comfortably see the whole frame and the accessory information. But I prefer using my ancient Nikon F plain prism, or my Olympus E-1.

Again, no one camera is perfect for all eyes and all uses. Humans are adaptable, machines do not adapt. 😉

G
 
After running this post with the question about a 35mm lens for m mount i had a great disappointment. I borrowed an m6 for 1 week to test the waters and i cant see the framelines of the 35mm with my glasses on well. I also started thinking that maybe sometime i will want 28mm( you know how these things change). What will i do then ? I am very sceptical to throw 2k for a camera and a lens that doesnt make me happy 100%. Is there any film slr with a good viewfinder for glasses and easy focusing too ? I had the nikon f3hp 3 years ago, great camera great viewfinder but i couldnt focus 100% accurate, maybe more 70-80% most of the time and the camera with lens were for sure heavy. I wouldnt mind the weight if the viewfinder was very good for my needs( be able to see whole frame without moving eyes around, be able to get tack sharp focus easy). What would you suggest ?
Anyone with glasses has this issue. But if you stick with it, persevere, you'll likely find the benefits of a Leica M w/ 0.72 viewfinder a 35mm lens, far outweigh the hassle. You'll learn to roll your eye to see the frame line, and if you use the 35mm lens enough, you'll start to see in that vision. With that lens, the vertical distance to the subject, equals the horizontal distance of the negative. I've had a few epiphany moments in photography and one of them was when I committed to using the 35mm lens on a Leica M -- exclusively -- for a long period, and after 6 months I came to the conclusion it was an ideal set up. Indeed the only lens you really need. For a 28mm, just realize it will be the entire viewfinder. Another thing, you'll learn not to be so hyper focused on frame lines; you can always crop a bit later.

Having said that, my individual journey was back and forth. Started with a Leica M6 in 1998, used mostly 50mm lenses because I wore glasses and found using the 35mm focal length a struggle. After 10 years or so, gravitated to SLR, used them for 7-8 years, using a 35mm lenses, and then back Leica M's for variety of reasons. Then I did the aforementioned test, exclusively using a 35mm lens. Became habituated to it, found out it is a perfect for a Leica M with 0.72 viewfinder, even for someone who wears glasses.

Sure, go to an SLR, but don't give on an M. It has a lot of advantages, and using the 35mm focal length, or even a 28mm lens, just takes time to become habituated.

Now as to your question, the SLR I found with great relief and ease of focus was the Leicaflex SL. It uses a micro prism focusing screen, and things just pop into focus in a dramatic way. Viewfinder mag is something like .9 (I think). Good cameras with low shutter vibration (for an SLR).

Problem with an F3HP is the viewfinder mag is only .75, though great eye relief. Try to find something with great eye relief and high viewfinder magnification.

Nikon F too would be an option. Get it in a plain. prism and learn Sunny 16.
 
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If you visit the article I linked earlier you'll read "magnification and eye relief also oppose each other to some extent."

Everything is a compromise!
Yes they do, to a certain extent, but there are a few cameras that break the mold or balance the compromise, the Leicaflex series being one of them. If you reduce viewfinder magnification too much, you get trouble focusing. Ergo, the problem the OP had with the Nikon F3HP. Especially for wide angle lenses, that make everything in an SLR viewfinder smaller. I can attest to that, having owned multiple SLR's searching for the one with eye relief and ease of focus. I once had an R7 and an F3HP at the same time, and just the 5% more viewfinder mag of the R7 made it a lot easier to focus. Again, a balance, and the cameras that hit that balance well are, in my opinion, cameras like the Leicaflex SL, Nikon F, Canon Ftb, Minolta SRT. I raised a similar question 16 years ago on the old photo.net forum here https://www.photo.net/forums/topic/403355-eye-relief-best-mechanical-cameras/. Especially look at Peter-de-waal data and comments in that thread.
 
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I'm an eyeglass wearer & longtime Leica user. If the Leica doesn't work for you & the brilliant F3 HP is too heavy, then check out the Pentax MX/LX...... Olympus OM...
The case is really you can't have it all. Everything is a compromise. I find Leica with accessory finders to be a great solution (that works for me)

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there are a few cameras that break the mold

True: the Contax Aria has 7% more mag than the F3HP, yet the same eye relief.

The ME Super (or MX) have nearly life size magnification, quite easy to focus. But I have to press my eye close to the eyepiece to see the entire view, no way to see the entire view with glasses.
 
Yes they do, to a certain extent, but there are a few cameras that break the mold or balance the compromise, the Leicaflex series being one of them. If you reduce viewfinder magnification too much, you get trouble focusing. Ergo, the problem the OP had with the Nikon F3HP. Especially for wide angle lenses, that make everything in an SLR viewfinder smaller. I can attest to that, having owned multiple SLR's searching for the one with eye relief and ease of focus. I once had an R7 and an F3HP at the same time, and just the 5% more viewfinder mag of the R7 made it a lot easier to focus. Again, a balance, and the cameras that hit that balance well are, in my opinion, cameras like the Leicaflex SL, Nikon F, Minolta SRT. I raised a similar question 16 years ago on the old photo.net forum here https://www.photo.net/forums/topic/403355-eye-relief-best-mechanical-cameras/. Especially look at Peter-de-waal data and comments in that thread.
Eyes vary too, and eyes-with-corrections (glasses) also vary a lot. The Leicaflex SL and Leica R6 that I had have excellent viewfinders, but I never had any problem achieving perfect focus with Nikon F3T hp or Nikon F either.

In the end, the only way to really know what works best for your eyes (and glasses) is to obtain one of the cameras you're interested in and test using it in a variety of circumstances and with a range of different lenses.

G
 
Eyes vary too, and eyes-with-corrections (glasses) also vary a lot. The Leicaflex SL and Leica R6 that I had have excellent viewfinders, but I never had any problem achieving perfect focus with Nikon F3T hp or Nikon F either.
In the end, the only way to really know what works best for your eyes (and glasses) is to obtain one of the cameras you're interested in and test using it in a variety of circumstances and with a range of different lenses.

G
And too it depends on the focal length of the lenses you'll likely use a lot. If you are going to use standard and short teles, then the low mag of a high eyepoint viewfinder, no problem. Maybe even a 35mm lens no problem. But things get quite smaller with 28mm ect., maybe even a bridge too far for the micro prism screen of a Leicaflex SL. Nikon F seems to handle everything, and -- ha, ha -- one of the few affordable original black paint cameras. Clarity of a viewfinder is a whole other issue, but probably more user subjective.
 
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The Nikon F fitted with the standard A screen (plain matte fresnel with split image rangefinder in the center) handles almost everything well, from 15mm to ultra telephoto. The split image rangefinder blacks out a bit easily with lenses that have smaller than f/4 maximum aperture, so that's when I swap in the E screen (plain matte fresnel with grid lines). That handles everything well, unless you really want a focusing aid. (Some people balk and feel they cannot focus their 20mm accurately with such a screen, but I just set the focus by scale with that wide a lens and don't worry about it...)

And with the Nikon F + its plain prism finder, I can see the entire 100% coverage screen with my glasses on no matter what lens is on the camera, and there are no information displays to distract me. It's a refreshing return to a different era in photo equipment... simple and direct. 🙂

G
 
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