Hiyawaan
Particular Individual
Are there any Rf's that can do double exposures? How about a timed delay? just curious.
M
Magus
Guest
Post deleted by posters request
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
The Leica III's can do it. By winding the shutter speed dial anti clockwise you can re-cock the shutter without advancing the film. I have just checked my IIIg IIIf and IIIc and they all do it! 
nzeeman
Well-known
i think all retina cameras from I to III can do that.
sjw617
Panoramist
Hasselblad Xpan II can do it.
rolleistef
Well-known
Kievs can do that as well.
By lifting the speed dial, it disconnects the shutter and advance mechanism.
By lifting the speed dial, it disconnects the shutter and advance mechanism.
Hiyawaan
Particular Individual
So I take it my R3A can't do it. Damn now I need another camera!
hobbim
Member
You push the button that releases the film, just like before rewinding. Shutter is cocked but film is not advanced. On my Bessa R (like on many other cameras as well) the button is released when cocking the shutter and film advances with the next rewind. Want more than two exposures? Push the button again before cocking the shutter.
Hiyawaan
Particular Individual
Really, I guess I too scared to try for fear of damaging the mechanism.
dreamsandart
Well-known
Surprised no ones mentioned this. The Leica M5 is the only Leica made to do double exposures with accuracy. It also happens to be the only M-Leica with both self-timers and a built in meter.
ChrisN
Striving
Leica M5 is designed to allow it.
BrianShaw
Well-known
Be not afraid. That is how some manufacturers recommend doing it (e.g. Kodak Retina).Hiyawaan said:
Carlos Cruz
Established
I just developed two rolls of maco I took in two distant places, one was blank the other was perfectly aligned double exposure frame into frame. That left me with roll of photos from amsterdam on hawaii or the other way round.... I haven't done something like that in years and never ever so perfectly, frame right into frame. Camera I used canon p, and it didn't said anywhere it's capable of multiexposure.
If you want to take multiexposures with any camera you can do it the way it was done in movie cameras. After you have loaded the roll for the first time you remove the lens set the shutter to B, and with a feltpen make a mark on the film outlining the film gate. When you reload it you just have to check the sign you left is in the very same place... and presto. If you want to try post or preflashing I remember I read in some old manual from the sixties that exposure from flashing shouldn't exceed 20% of main exposure, but you should experiment with it, in those days they used it mainly for color negatives which had very steep curve, and were preety contrasty. If you do it this way I think any camera is capable of multi exposure.
If you want to take multiexposures with any camera you can do it the way it was done in movie cameras. After you have loaded the roll for the first time you remove the lens set the shutter to B, and with a feltpen make a mark on the film outlining the film gate. When you reload it you just have to check the sign you left is in the very same place... and presto. If you want to try post or preflashing I remember I read in some old manual from the sixties that exposure from flashing shouldn't exceed 20% of main exposure, but you should experiment with it, in those days they used it mainly for color negatives which had very steep curve, and were preety contrasty. If you do it this way I think any camera is capable of multi exposure.
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Dougg
Seasoned Member
The Argus C3 is made to allow double exposures. In fact that's the reason I got one, years ago, for a multiple exposure project. Since cocking the shutter is a separate step, you can just skip turning the film-wind knob, and there you are. Same, really for some Polaroid models, and even older folders.
In fact that's the reason I got one, years ago, for a multiple exposure project. Since cocking the shutter is a separate step, you can just skip turning the film-wind knob, and there you are. Same, really for some Polaroid models, and even older folders.
Hiyawaan
Particular Individual
Thanks for the responses fellow Rff'ers.
When I work up the courage to test it on my R3A I'll let you know. Still I think I should wait till I have a second body cause this camera is still new to me.
Cruz, I am aware of the motion picture technique as I was a camera assistant for several years but I don't want to double expose the whole roll just a few shots. The technique of pre-flashing the film was used to lower the contrast of the film by effectivly raising the base level through flashing. In this context flashing means to expose the film to just enough light as to excite the hailides in the shadow areas of you second exposure (for those not familiar with the process). In Deer Hunters Cinematorapher Vilmos Zsigmond uses this technique. I always wanted to try it but now days with the help of digital timing it unnecessary.
When I work up the courage to test it on my R3A I'll let you know. Still I think I should wait till I have a second body cause this camera is still new to me.
Cruz, I am aware of the motion picture technique as I was a camera assistant for several years but I don't want to double expose the whole roll just a few shots. The technique of pre-flashing the film was used to lower the contrast of the film by effectivly raising the base level through flashing. In this context flashing means to expose the film to just enough light as to excite the hailides in the shadow areas of you second exposure (for those not familiar with the process). In Deer Hunters Cinematorapher Vilmos Zsigmond uses this technique. I always wanted to try it but now days with the help of digital timing it unnecessary.