scho
Well-known
Which is the correct term when you focus on a target and the pont of sharpness in the image is beyond (futher away) the target? Here is an example with my 40mm Nokton wide open at 1.4 on my R-D1. Target was the letters ns in the label on the can of beans, but sharpest focus was on the can of fruit behind it (3-4 inches further away). I also can't focus on anything further away than 40-50 ft before hitting the infinity stop, but this happens with all of my lenses so does this sound like a rangefinder in need of adjustment?

jim_buchanan
Established
I would call this backfocusing. It focuses behind the intended focus point.
I would suggest that if your rangefinder infinity was adjusted to the infinity stop of your lens, your backfocusing would be no more. The mis-adjusted infinity is fooling your rangefinder into focusing behind. The fact that all your lenses hit infinity before the rangefinder does, indicates it is the camera rangefinder and the whole cam action needs to be shifted with "horizontal" adjustment thru the hot shoe.
I would suggest that if your rangefinder infinity was adjusted to the infinity stop of your lens, your backfocusing would be no more. The mis-adjusted infinity is fooling your rangefinder into focusing behind. The fact that all your lenses hit infinity before the rangefinder does, indicates it is the camera rangefinder and the whole cam action needs to be shifted with "horizontal" adjustment thru the hot shoe.
RichC
Well-known
I agree with Jim: back focus is what you've got, and the fact that your focus patch won't align at infinity is indicative of an out-of-adjustment rangefinder.
Have you tested the near focus of other lenses that you own that also have a shallow depth of field, to see if they too back focus? I find focusing on a few lines of text to be a good test, as it's very easy to pinpoint the plane of focus.
As Jim says, you'll probably find that once infinity focus is calibrated, the near focus problem (assuming it's the camera (likely) and not the Nokton) will sort itself out.
Any camera technician familiar with rangefinders should be able to adjust the R-D1 quickly and cheaply, as it's a straighforward job. It's also easy to do yourself.
To do it yourself, you need some wooden cocktail sticks, decent screwdrivers (00 crosshead, 000 flat) and good lighting so you can peer into the camera's innards.
First, you need to remove the hot shoe (see http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18901). You'll then see three screws (a clearer view is here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31755) - the large screw directly below the cut-out in the top plate is the third of three screws under the hot shoe (counting with the back of the camera towards you): if your viewfinder patches coincide vertically, you don't need to touch this screw. Instead, what you want is the middle one (screw 2), which adjusts the horizontal alignment: turn the screw clockwise to move the finder patch to the left. It only needs to be turned a few degrees.
Once your viewfinder is aligned at infinity, check the near focus (leave the hot shoe off). Hopefully, it's now spot on. If not, close focus will only be a little bit off, and you can adjust this with the first screw under the hot shoe. This screw actually adjusts the sharpness of the focus patch in the viewfinder but as a side-effect it also affects the horizontal alignment slightly (but much less than screw 2). Turn this screw a few degrees clockwise if the camera is still back focusing, until the close focus is spot on (this small adjustment won't have any impact on the patch sharpness). Now, recheck infinity focus, as you may need to make a minor adjustment to screw 2, and recheck the close focus. Hopefully, both close and infinity focus are now both spot on. If either is still a little out, adjust screws 1 or 2 again as needed - you shouldn't need to do igo back and forth between the screws more times than this.
Have you tested the near focus of other lenses that you own that also have a shallow depth of field, to see if they too back focus? I find focusing on a few lines of text to be a good test, as it's very easy to pinpoint the plane of focus.
As Jim says, you'll probably find that once infinity focus is calibrated, the near focus problem (assuming it's the camera (likely) and not the Nokton) will sort itself out.
Any camera technician familiar with rangefinders should be able to adjust the R-D1 quickly and cheaply, as it's a straighforward job. It's also easy to do yourself.
To do it yourself, you need some wooden cocktail sticks, decent screwdrivers (00 crosshead, 000 flat) and good lighting so you can peer into the camera's innards.
First, you need to remove the hot shoe (see http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18901). You'll then see three screws (a clearer view is here: http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31755) - the large screw directly below the cut-out in the top plate is the third of three screws under the hot shoe (counting with the back of the camera towards you): if your viewfinder patches coincide vertically, you don't need to touch this screw. Instead, what you want is the middle one (screw 2), which adjusts the horizontal alignment: turn the screw clockwise to move the finder patch to the left. It only needs to be turned a few degrees.
Once your viewfinder is aligned at infinity, check the near focus (leave the hot shoe off). Hopefully, it's now spot on. If not, close focus will only be a little bit off, and you can adjust this with the first screw under the hot shoe. This screw actually adjusts the sharpness of the focus patch in the viewfinder but as a side-effect it also affects the horizontal alignment slightly (but much less than screw 2). Turn this screw a few degrees clockwise if the camera is still back focusing, until the close focus is spot on (this small adjustment won't have any impact on the patch sharpness). Now, recheck infinity focus, as you may need to make a minor adjustment to screw 2, and recheck the close focus. Hopefully, both close and infinity focus are now both spot on. If either is still a little out, adjust screws 1 or 2 again as needed - you shouldn't need to do igo back and forth between the screws more times than this.
scho
Well-known
Thanks very much Jim and Rich for the advice and instructions for adjusting my rangefinder. I don't feel too comfortable doing this myself, so I'll send it off for repair.
SteveM(PA)
Poser
I had the exact same backfocus problem, with an additional tiny vertical misalignment. I just had a little spare time, so I decided to tackle it, and it's been a success.
I no longer have to do any compensating, especially with my 135mm, which I was always bracketing, focus-wise. It is now dead on. I'm so excited, I wish it weren't midnight, with kids in bed...I wanna go out! I want to emphasize...it just takes little nudges on those screws (I only messed with 2 and 3)...just a hint of pressure. And the hotshoe cover removal...not a problem...I just pried it up with my little flat head screwdriver, in no particular fashion, and I didn't scratch anything. And when you're done, it just snaps right back on. I'm so happy I was able to fix this myself, it feels good. Thanks to everyone who posted great instructions. 
scho
Well-known
Did it!
Did it!
I went ahead and fixed the RF alignment on my R-D1 following the instructions that Rich gave above (thanks again Rich). Just tweaked the #2 screw a few times (boy it is really sensitive to the slightest adjustment) and finally got it right. No more back focus problems and close/far shots are all right on. My latest shot after the adjustment:
http://www.schophoto.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=781&lang=eng
Did it!
I went ahead and fixed the RF alignment on my R-D1 following the instructions that Rich gave above (thanks again Rich). Just tweaked the #2 screw a few times (boy it is really sensitive to the slightest adjustment) and finally got it right. No more back focus problems and close/far shots are all right on. My latest shot after the adjustment:
http://www.schophoto.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=781&lang=eng
ampguy
Veteran
that's an excellent photo!
that's an excellent photo!
I'm going to go setup some beans myself and see if I am back focusing, though it might be harder to tell, my 40 is slower f2.
that's an excellent photo!
I'm going to go setup some beans myself and see if I am back focusing, though it might be harder to tell, my 40 is slower f2.
scho said:I went ahead and fixed the RF alignment on my R-D1 following the instructions that Rich gave above (thanks again Rich). Just tweaked the #2 screw a few times (boy it is really sensitive to the slightest adjustment) and finally got it right. No more back focus problems and close/far shots are all right on. My latest shot after the adjustment:
http://www.schophoto.com/gallery/photo.php?photo=781&lang=eng
ampguy
Veteran
focus seems ok
focus seems ok
closest focus setting on Rokkor @ F2, ISO 400, 1/100th. Focus was on middle Albertsons kidney beans label, specifically on the black Albertsons horizontal stripe at the top of the can where it meets the lighter color of the label. Each can is 3" in front or behind the other cans.
note to self: save this for next Portrait Critique
focus seems ok
closest focus setting on Rokkor @ F2, ISO 400, 1/100th. Focus was on middle Albertsons kidney beans label, specifically on the black Albertsons horizontal stripe at the top of the can where it meets the lighter color of the label. Each can is 3" in front or behind the other cans.
note to self: save this for next Portrait Critique
ampguy said:I'm going to go setup some beans myself and see if I am back focusing, though it might be harder to tell, my 40 is slower f2.
Attachments
scho
Well-known
Thanks Ampguy. You were lucky with your R-D1 not having to do the adjustment. Tedious work and worst part in my case was cleaning out the blue locktite gunk that was smeared around both screws 1 and 2.
RichC
Well-known
Glad you got it sorted, Carl.
SteveM(PA)
Poser
When I fixed mine, I was hoping, Carl, that you had not sent yours off to DAG yet, because the adjustment wasn't too tough to tackle...a little tedious at times, yes. BTW, I too liked your can shot...I would have posted my back focus pic, but it was of, like, a broken action figure, a Christmas bow, and a packet of duck sauce. Not pretty!
Congrats!
ampguy
Veteran
maybe lucky for a little while
maybe lucky for a little while
but it seems many folks here eventually have to align, or re-align, so it's great that there are some DIY tips, and repair folks who have got this alignment down.
I'm impressed that you're able to focus your 1.4 so well on the relatively short baselength bessa based frame. I'd say only about 50% or so of my f2 close range shots are focused sharp, but probably not the camera, my eyes (a -1 diopter would help at some point for me), and moving subjects are probably a big cause.
maybe lucky for a little while
but it seems many folks here eventually have to align, or re-align, so it's great that there are some DIY tips, and repair folks who have got this alignment down.
I'm impressed that you're able to focus your 1.4 so well on the relatively short baselength bessa based frame. I'd say only about 50% or so of my f2 close range shots are focused sharp, but probably not the camera, my eyes (a -1 diopter would help at some point for me), and moving subjects are probably a big cause.
scho said:Thanks Ampguy. You were lucky with your R-D1 not having to do the adjustment. Tedious work and worst part in my case was cleaning out the blue locktite gunk that was smeared around both screws 1 and 2.
scho
Well-known
SteveM(PA) said:When I fixed mine, I was hoping, Carl, that you had not sent yours off to DAG yet, because the adjustment wasn't too tough to tackle...a little tedious at times, yes. BTW, I too liked your can shot...I would have posted my back focus pic, but it was of, like, a broken action figure, a Christmas bow, and a packet of duck sauce. Not pretty!Congrats!
Yes, your success encouraged me to fix it myself. Thanks Steve.
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