fishtek
Don
A story of accidental cross-processing leads me to ask...
What happens when you process C-41 (Fuji 200) film with my HC-110?
Regards!
Don
What happens when you process C-41 (Fuji 200) film with my HC-110?
Regards!
Don
fishtek
Don
What? Nobody has cooked C-41 film with B/W chemistry? Guess I'm gonna have to sacrifice some film to see what happens...
Stand by!
Don
Stand by!
Don
Stephanie Brim
Mental Experimental.
I've done it. Fuji 400 in D76. I processed it in D76 stock for the same amount of time you'd process TMAX 100. It worked.
fishtek
Don
Thanks, Stephanie! I knew SOMEBODY had to have done it! I'll cook it tonight and see what happens.
Best!
Don
Best!
Don
fishtek
Don
Follow-up....
Sorta worked...I had a partially-shot roll of XP2 in my SLR, and decided to experiment with that. Cooked it with HC-110 1:100 for 4.5 minutes at 64 degrees. Negatives are thin, a bit muddy-looking, but it looks like it could be done. Worth the testing/experimenting/trial-and-error? Dunno, but sort of interesting.
Sorta worked...I had a partially-shot roll of XP2 in my SLR, and decided to experiment with that. Cooked it with HC-110 1:100 for 4.5 minutes at 64 degrees. Negatives are thin, a bit muddy-looking, but it looks like it could be done. Worth the testing/experimenting/trial-and-error? Dunno, but sort of interesting.
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visiondr
cyclic iconoclast
I'm amazed you have an image at all. Aren't c-41 films based on dyes rather than silver halide crystals?
Ron
Ron
visiondr
cyclic iconoclast
Oops, I was part right and part wrong. See the below Wikipedia excerpt:
"...The negative image occurs because exposure to light and development converts the photographic silver halides into black metallic silver. Couplers during development cause dyes to be produced in the layers, the bleach then converts the silver back to the original state and the fix removes the silver from the film. The last bath is a stabiliser and wetting agent which allows the film to dry evenly without streaks and preserves the dye image."
Does the lack of a stabilizer in the last bath (I assume you fixed in std B&W fixer) mean your negs will eventually fade away because the colour dyes fade?
Ron
"...The negative image occurs because exposure to light and development converts the photographic silver halides into black metallic silver. Couplers during development cause dyes to be produced in the layers, the bleach then converts the silver back to the original state and the fix removes the silver from the film. The last bath is a stabiliser and wetting agent which allows the film to dry evenly without streaks and preserves the dye image."
Does the lack of a stabilizer in the last bath (I assume you fixed in std B&W fixer) mean your negs will eventually fade away because the colour dyes fade?
Ron
fishtek
Don
Seems to me that with a bit of experimentation, it'd be as easy to control the development process as is the case with "straight" b/w film. The variables between films and developers are myriad, and getting the right combination of chromogenic film and developer is only an extension of the well-documented recipes (read:massive development chart...).
Dunno about eventual fade, but I'll experiment some more, and figure it out over time, I guess. Actually, as I'll convert the "keepers" to computer files anyhow, that's not really an issue.
See ya!
Don
Dunno about eventual fade, but I'll experiment some more, and figure it out over time, I guess. Actually, as I'll convert the "keepers" to computer files anyhow, that's not really an issue.
See ya!
Don
estepan99
Member
Hi experimental folks!
AFAIK in processing XP2 there are two steps.
First you process the Silver cristals and
Second you wash them out of the film. The Dyes remain on the Filmbase and overlapping creates the negative.
So when you process in a normal BW-developer then you skip step two and sure something will happen.
The other cross-processing-question that comes to my mind is:
How can one simulate the outcome of a slide-film processed in C41-chemistry in post processing like PhotoShop.
Background: Some years ago it was quite popular for some time to shoot slidefilm and cross-process it in C41 for the highcontrasty and false colors.
Last week I shot a Fuji Sensia, took it to my local lab and said, I wanted it processed in their machine like a normal neg-film. The clerk told me he won´t do it because he was afraid the film would ruin his chemistry.
So is there a recipy what do change in photoshop to get similar results?
Thanks in advance,
Stephan
AFAIK in processing XP2 there are two steps.
First you process the Silver cristals and
Second you wash them out of the film. The Dyes remain on the Filmbase and overlapping creates the negative.
So when you process in a normal BW-developer then you skip step two and sure something will happen.
The other cross-processing-question that comes to my mind is:
How can one simulate the outcome of a slide-film processed in C41-chemistry in post processing like PhotoShop.
Background: Some years ago it was quite popular for some time to shoot slidefilm and cross-process it in C41 for the highcontrasty and false colors.
Last week I shot a Fuji Sensia, took it to my local lab and said, I wanted it processed in their machine like a normal neg-film. The clerk told me he won´t do it because he was afraid the film would ruin his chemistry.
So is there a recipy what do change in photoshop to get similar results?
Thanks in advance,
Stephan
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
estepan99 said:
Look up their machine's manual and print the page that says that they can process E6 so long as it isn't more that 5% of their thoughput.
Oherwise the quick and easy solution is to put an address label over the film cassette with 'C41' handwritten on it.
grainhound
Well-known
Check around with different labs. Here in Toronto, each lab seems to have a different policy - it ranges from “go away” to extra charges or longer turn-around times.
Niall Bell
Member
Hi,
I tought that I'd share my experience of 'cross-processing' XP2 in HC110, that I'd coincidentally done yesterday before I found this forum!
I used the 1+31 dilution with a 120 roll of XP2 that was exposed using a Mamiya 6 and flash. I gave it an arbirary 7 mins at 20C and agitated every 30s.
The negatives were sharp and clear with a good range of densities, however, they have a strong magenta tinge that I could not remove even by extending the fixing time.
As these were only developed last night, I've not yet had an opportunity to print them, but if they turn out ok, I'll post a further note.
Niall.
I tought that I'd share my experience of 'cross-processing' XP2 in HC110, that I'd coincidentally done yesterday before I found this forum!
I used the 1+31 dilution with a 120 roll of XP2 that was exposed using a Mamiya 6 and flash. I gave it an arbirary 7 mins at 20C and agitated every 30s.
The negatives were sharp and clear with a good range of densities, however, they have a strong magenta tinge that I could not remove even by extending the fixing time.
As these were only developed last night, I've not yet had an opportunity to print them, but if they turn out ok, I'll post a further note.
Niall.
ClaremontPhoto
Jon Claremont
I think that with XP2 the magenta mask is built into the film and is present whether the film is processed C41 or xpro.