Selling my R-D1 & Accessories

barjohn

barjohn

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Sadly, I am selling my R-D1 (see classifieds). I really liked this camera and would love to have been able to afford to keep it and the M8 I purchased but after using both I find I preferred the M8. I'm not sure if it is worth the extra $3500 but I decided to take the gamble. I can't say I have experienced any problems with the R-D1 so it isn't due to that. Like many posters here I became paranoid and tested infinity focus and then did test shoots for back focus etc. Everything appears fine to me.

I will also be posting a Sunpak Auto 383 super flash that I used with it and purchased new 1/06/07 and a Megaperls 1.33x magnifier tomorrow.

John
 
Choices. I hope you made the right one. Good luck with the M8. Enjoy it.
 
There are definitely a few advantages to the R-D1. First, no problem with color rendition in 99% of the cases. I am finding that even using the newer C1 color profiles colors are off on the M8 until I can get the filters. I know its stupid but I liked the film advance lever to cock the shutter, it just seemed natural. The analog gages to tell you everything at a glance is also very nice and the ability to fold away the LCD and provide it protection is great, plus no one knows it is digital when you do that. In this age of new camera models every year and last years model being so outdated that it is worthless, it is a testament to the deesign that at two years of age it is still a sought after and excellent camera. The images are very clean up to ISO 800 (to my eye about the same as the M8 at 640) and quite usable at 1600 with some NR. I have not seen any P&S that can match it in IQ. Even some DSLRs do not match it. So I will miss it but I am enjoying the M8 despite its teething problems.

I believe that with the release of ver 1.10 of the firmware it will have the majority of its problems behind it. Add the IR filters and it will be a fantastic camera. I suspect the majority of the issues after that will be in the nature of the occasional manufacturing unit that tested good at the factory and develops a subsequent problem. The only way to avoid that in electronics is to have a long burn in period and that would further raise the cost and price and slow down production even further.

John
 
John

As you're one of the rare owners of both cameras (and I've never handled a M8), I'd like to ask you how's the difference in handling:

Startup time - from switching on to shoot
Changing ISO
Changing WB
Card writing speed (comparable settings and cards)

Thanks a lot in advance,
Didier
 
Didier,

It is a challenge to put into words the difference in handling but here goes a try.

Side by side and head on the M8 appears to be smaller and slightly lighter. I know that the dimensions aren't that different but that is the perception in all but looking down on the camera where the R-D1 looks thinner (its the stepped angles and cust vesus the flat plate) even though they are the same thickness. The R-D1 also feels thinner in the hand and the small grip on the back makes it easier to hold with one hand, at least at first. Once you get used to the M8 I think it gets easier. I have never noticed any issue with start up time on the R-D1 and I can't say that I have with the M8 either. they both seem to start in about 5 seconds (I wait until the flashing lights go out). At first I thought that changing ISO on the M8 would be harder but given the small font size on the R-D1, I think it is actually easier on the M8. Certainly mor readable without my glasses. Changing WB is also easier on the M8 though I shoot DNG and don't use it. It is pretty bad in auto mode at this time. Since it is writing bigger files it takes longer using the same kind of card Scan Disk Ultra II 2GB. However, since the buffer is larger you can go on shooting for up to 10 shots on the M8. Display of the image after a shot is quicker on the M8 but once you try and zoom it seems slow to zoom and does not appear to have as large a zoom range or number of zoom steps.

Focusing and shooting with the M8 is quicker and it seems less conspicuous even with the red dot. Others have complained about the strap but I really like it and when hanging from a shoulder it feels feather weight yet very solid in your hands. It is definitely nicer to use with a light lens and so far I like the Rokkor 40/2 for its small size, light weight and sharp pictures. It's a little soft at f2 but razor sharp above that. I have a Leica 28/2.8 Elmarit 4th generation and it seems to be as heavy as the camera so I don't keep it on even though its greater DOF would make it more useful on the street. I guess I would summarize the diference in feel like the difference between a Seiko watch (like their high end $6K models) to a Ulysse Nardin (about $15K). One has a feel of luxury and the other feels good but isn't quite there.
 
Thanks, John
Just one note about the R-D1's ISO setting - I never look at the small font. As there are 4 positions only, I "feel them". Max CW is 200, max CCW is 1600 - not a big deal. As for the WB, same for me, I shoot Raw and fiddle later.
Didier
 
I did the same thing for ISo on the R-D1 when I was shooting but the problem comes later when you have had the camera turned off for a while and you forget your last setting. It would be nice to just be able to glance at it and see what you had it set to rather than fiddling with the knob to figure it out.
 
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