POSTI-Tuomo
Level 1 Camera Repairman
Greetings,
I need to consider the option of repainting the body of my Zorki, it has started to lose the original black color. The vulcanite itself is intact, just the color has faded a bit. The fact is, vulcanite is some sort of rubber and that has to be taken into consideration when choosing the proper paint. And, quite naturally, I have no idea as to what kind of paint to use...
And furthermore, what kind of tools will I need in this great undertaking? An airbrush? Or just a traditional brush...?
Maybe there are paints that are ready to use, as in spray cans etc?
Or what about just stripping the body of its vulcanite and replacing it with leather or some other material? How would you go about doing that?
Cheers,
Tuomo
I need to consider the option of repainting the body of my Zorki, it has started to lose the original black color. The vulcanite itself is intact, just the color has faded a bit. The fact is, vulcanite is some sort of rubber and that has to be taken into consideration when choosing the proper paint. And, quite naturally, I have no idea as to what kind of paint to use...
And furthermore, what kind of tools will I need in this great undertaking? An airbrush? Or just a traditional brush...?
Maybe there are paints that are ready to use, as in spray cans etc?
Or what about just stripping the body of its vulcanite and replacing it with leather or some other material? How would you go about doing that?
Cheers,
Tuomo
Xmas
Veteran
Good morning Tuomo
Feds and Zorkis do fade even when they spend their life in ERCs.
Painting or replacement (or repair if you chip) are all viable options try searching for leather or vulcanite on forum, oodles of help
Noel
Feds and Zorkis do fade even when they spend their life in ERCs.
Painting or replacement (or repair if you chip) are all viable options try searching for leather or vulcanite on forum, oodles of help
Noel
POSTI-Tuomo
Level 1 Camera Repairman
Hmm, well I found some vague references about Humbrol model paint and something about enamel spray paint but nothing really convincing. Spray paint seems convenient enough, though.
Just separate the body shell from the other works and spray several thin layers over it and let dry for a few days. We'll see about that... Now, off to buy some tools, namely circlip pliers, a file and a caliper. See you later!
Just separate the body shell from the other works and spray several thin layers over it and let dry for a few days. We'll see about that... Now, off to buy some tools, namely circlip pliers, a file and a caliper. See you later!
Robert Price
I missed what?
May I recommend a paint. I have had great success painting plastic as well as rubber with paints that are designed for vinyl. I really could not even begin to tell you where you might find it in Helsinki. I guess I would try an automotive outlet first.
john neal
fallor ergo sum
Tuomo,
I'm sure there will be a suitable automotive paint in an aerosol, if you check around your local suppliers - good range of colours too
I would suggest you give the painted body an hour in a low-temperature oven (say somewhere between 50 and 70 deg C). This will drive off any volatiles and help to really harden the paint - better than just waiting too.
I'm sure there will be a suitable automotive paint in an aerosol, if you check around your local suppliers - good range of colours too
I would suggest you give the painted body an hour in a low-temperature oven (say somewhere between 50 and 70 deg C). This will drive off any volatiles and help to really harden the paint - better than just waiting too.
POSTI-Tuomo
Level 1 Camera Repairman
Wouldn't baking it in the oven have an adverse effect on the vulcanite? Even in those relatively low temperatures? Just a thought, I've never done that so I don't have a clue. Sounds like you've done that before... I just need you to confirm that before I proceed. 
ZorkiKat
ЗоркийК&
Many of the FED and Zorki I received with good-looking vulcanite had actually been repainted. I myself tried this. Ordinary 'enamel' housepaint works very well. The only disadvantage is the fumes and the longer drying times. It is advantageous though, due to the fact that the camera need not be disassembled to paint the vulcanite parts, and the paint itself is very durable.
Spraypaints also work. The ones I tried though sometimes wear off.
Some have suggested using rub-on instant (no buffing required) shoepolish.
Jay
Spraypaints also work. The ones I tried though sometimes wear off.
Some have suggested using rub-on instant (no buffing required) shoepolish.
Jay
wolves3012
Veteran
Posti, you definitely need a solvent-based paint to get a key to the vulcanite which, as I understand it, is a vulcanised rubber. Zorkikat's suggestion ought to be a good one. Acrylics and water-borne paints are unlikely to give a good key. The ideal, IF you can get it, would be a solvent-based exterior masonry paint (smooth not textured!) based on "pliolite" resin (that's a tradename). It's tough, flexible and durable but you would probably only get a matt finish.
Whatever you use, baking it at a low temperature up to 50-70C should not harm the vulcanite but make sure you give plenty of time for the solvents to evaporate before baking, else they will boil and bubble the finish - I'd wait 12hrs at least.. Obviously, don't bake the whole camera either!
Remember, if you do manage to mess it up you can always remove it all and put leather, or whatever, on it.
Whatever you use, baking it at a low temperature up to 50-70C should not harm the vulcanite but make sure you give plenty of time for the solvents to evaporate before baking, else they will boil and bubble the finish - I'd wait 12hrs at least.. Obviously, don't bake the whole camera either!
Remember, if you do manage to mess it up you can always remove it all and put leather, or whatever, on it.
Screwy
All the gear no idea
I'm sure you won't need the links Toumo but just in case
Vulcanite removal
aki-asahi camera coverings for the Zorki 1d
Paul
Vulcanite removal
aki-asahi camera coverings for the Zorki 1d
Paul
Last edited:
R
ruben
Guest
An option to consider is to buy a liquid cream "leather cleaner", which in my country polishes both leather and leather imitations. This may bring vulcanite back to life.
+ Old tooth brush.
Cheers from Jerusalem,
Ruben
+ Old tooth brush.
Cheers from Jerusalem,
Ruben
john neal
fallor ergo sum
Hi - genuine Leica vulcanite softens at around 150 deg C, but I don't know about the FSU variety - you may be better off playing safe.
wolves3012
Veteran
That looks a bit gruesome - fancy stripping the paint off a FED 2 back without removing it! That's asking for trouble, and sellotape will provide almost no protection.Screwy said:I'm sure you won't need the links Toumo but just in case![]()
Vulcanite removal
aki-asahi camera coverings for the Zorki 1d
Paul
I'd never contemplate using paint stripper on a camera without removing the body. On most FSU cameras it's not that hard to remove it for stripping, so there's not really any excuse.
POSTI-Tuomo
Level 1 Camera Repairman
Heh yeah, that paint remover stuff looks like it's rather powerful. To be on the safe side I'd remove the body as well. Hopefully I won't have to come to that. Still looking for a proper paint. Stay tuned.
Murray Kelly
Well-known
I used some Kiwi liquid boot polish which comes in a squeeze bottle and foam
plastic spreder on the leatherette of a Retina and it came up looking like new.
Murray
plastic spreder on the leatherette of a Retina and it came up looking like new.
Murray
POSTI-Tuomo
Level 1 Camera Repairman
KIWI: That is a known brand here. Thanks for the tip.
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