gossen luna pro f

U

utku

Utku KAYNAR
Local time
10:30 AM
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
35
I've just purchased a Gossen Luna Pro F from ebay, and it seems to be working ok.

But, when I try it, there's always 2 stops of difference between incident and reflected meterings, reflected is always higher. This is true for dark and light areas too..

Is this normal ? When I try the Luna Pro's incident's metering results with a digital camera, it always give overexposure about two stops for the same scene than reflected...

Waiting for the answers.

Thanks,

utku

Edit : I properly zeroed the meter...
 
Last edited:
On my Minolta meter, it's the same, I guess it's ok this way (I add 2 stops when taking incident readings...). It's because of the white dome that sheades the light, but I wonder why they didn't made some auto correction system.
 
Are you sure you're using it correctly?
When you take an incident reading the meter should be at the subject pointing in the direction of the camera. When taking a reflected reading the meter should be in the position (or in line with) the camera and pointed at the subject. Doing this, the readings should be similar.
Incident readings measure the light falling on the subject and eliminate the effect of a very light or dark subject. You still, of course, have to think about the subject and compensate accordingly. Remember, the meter thinks everything is 18% gray and will read accordingly.
My Gossen Lunasix reads about the same for incident and reflected, assuming the subject is about normal.
 
How do you do those readings? No, it is not normal.

For a reflected reading you point the meter TO the AVERAGE grey object from the camera's direction (but close to the object so you are reading only it), withOUT the dome on the meter.

For incident you point to the camera from the object's location with the dome ON. If the object is glossy you need to avoid the glare. If it is dark or light you will need to adjust. The palm of your hand reads 1 stop more light than the grey card, but, you need to avoid the glare.

EDIT: I see Bruce beat me to it... but, here is a link for a more detailed description:

http://www.sekonic.com/classroom/classroom_21.asp
 
Last edited:
dnk512 : I make it with the dome on, pointed at the camera.

teo : is it possible that there's a correction should be made because white dome transmits the light less ?

I have now made a metering :

With the dome on from the subject point and pointed at the camera : Luna Pro reads 1/6s @ 2.8
My camera towards that point : 1/10s @ 2.8
Luna Pro in reflected mode directed at the same point : 1/8s @2.8

I guess they're similar, or what I should expect from "similar" ?

If so, we can initially guess that what I do in the beginning was wrong

------------------------------------

Now the second question :

In a street without too much shadows, should I prefer incident or reflected ? Assume using black and white film @ ISO 400 or more...

Thanks for all the info, since I'm new in this..

Regards,

Utku
 
you need to compare the incident reading with a reflected reading off a gray card made for that purpose. These two readings should be very close. Regarding your second question, for B&W you'll probably want to use reflected light readings, with a bias towards the shadows or darker parts of the scene. But this is a matter of trial and error, learning the metering method that works best for you. For chromes, incident readings.
 
Also....you need to consider your developing times when you meter. Meter too much for the shadows and your negs will be too dense unless you cut back on dev. time...
 
These readings are now similar.

For street photography the simplest method is to take an average reflected reading (avoid sky or major reflections in your reading). You can study/try the incident readings, too. If you are standing in light similar to the subjects you are shooting, just take an incident reading in the direction of the lens. If you are not in the same light then you need to walk to the area you are shooting to make the incident reading.

Remember: Incident reading measures the light that FALLS on your subject. Reflected reading measures the light the is REFLECTED by your subject. For most average street situations you will be fine with reflected readings (just avoid the sky)
 
Hi... I have made incident readings with my Gossen Luna Pro in moderately bright light [with dome]... and reflected light readings, with the center weighted OM-1 TTL meter in street photography, with a 50mm lens. Both give similar readouts; let's say 1/500 at f8 with ISO 200 film.

Tho' I have not used a grey card for reflected readings, the camera and the Luna Pro also yield similar readings in late afternoon, flat lighting.

Hope this helps.
Cheers, mike
 
utku said:
teo : is it possible that there's a correction should be made because white dome transmits the light less ?
Click to expand...

I think it's because of this, yes.
However, I see that other people already gave you more useful infos :eek:
 
The way I use mine in streetshooting is to periodically take a reading of the back of my outstretched hand w/ the dome NOT covering the opening. 'Works for me.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom