What film to use in the big city ??

[Trius]

Chromogenic film is excellent for lab development though. ... it doesn't matter if you send it to a pro lab or the local 1-hour place.

Eeek! My experience is that with "the local 1-hour place" (grocery store, drugstore, even small mom & pop), you run the risk of scratches, dust, dirt, etc. I had a roll of XP2 ruined by one of the oldest photo stores in the US ... they tried to blame it on bulk load, but I was insistent that I knew what I was doing, had done bulk loads for over 30 years and had NEVER had a problem such as what that roll showed.

I have found a local consumer lab here that is consistently good with C41 and scans, so I stick with them. As far as conventional b&w, I only do it myself. If I had to have a lab do it, I would find a pro-level lab and interview the owner or manager before entrusting my film to them.

Earl

 

[peter_n]

Eeek! My experience is that with "the local 1-hour place" (grocery store, drugstore, even small mom & pop), you run the risk of scratches, dust, dirt, etc.

Earl my local Motophoto puts the film as a complete roll into a long sleeve. I then cut it into 6's and scan it. No problems (yet).

 

[Rolleijoe]

I'd say Tri-X. Every time I'm in the city, my brain goes into b&w mode, and the default tone is Tri-X. Or even Plus-X. Both seem as though they were made to bring out the best look of NYC.

Processed in Rodinal 1:50, and you'll never think of using anything else.

 

[Michiel Fokkema]

Hi,
depends a bit on the exposure range of your camera and the light level when you're shooting.
With a modern camera a 400 iso film is the most versatile. Bad film is not around any more.
Cheers,
Michiel Fokkema

 

[ChadHahn]

After you develop your own, how do you get prints? Would I need a scanner ? Are these very expensive? Please forgive my lack of knowledge in this area. I am used to just dropping the film off at the 1 hr.

You can take the exposed negatives that you developed yourself to where you drop off your film and have them make prints from the negatives.

Chad

 

[gdi]

Kenny, I live a few miles from you and I would suggest the simplest thing to do starting out is to go to Ritz (the one in the new Canton shops) and buy some C-41 B&W. I prefer Kodak over Ilford (XP2) and just let them process it for you.

If you decide to process yourself, you can buy chemicals and tanks at Simonds in East Hartford. I have been doing that with HP5 and Tri-X a roll at a time(120 film). I then scan it with a Nikon and print. If you shoot chrome (I do Ektachrome) then Kula in Hartford has same day turnaround. In fact, Kula may do silver B&W on site as well, I never checked.

Good luck!

 

[kennyg]

I found a website for Kula. They do true B&W developing and printing. Dev. only is $6.50 per roll and 3.95 for scanning to CD. I was thinking of going this route, and then I can select what I like for printing. It sounds a bit expensive....what do you think?

 

[rover]

That is not a bad price. Printing runs a bit expensive as paper is expensive.

I posted some shots today in my gallery, I ran into the city last weekend, just threw a roll of Fuji color stuff in the camera.

 

[rover]

Kenny, I live a few miles from you and I would suggest the simplest thing to do starting out is to go to Ritz (the one in the new Canton shops) and buy some C-41 B&W. I prefer Kodak over Ilford (XP2) and just let them process it for you.

If you decide to process yourself, you can buy chemicals and tanks at Simonds in East Hartford. I have been doing that with HP5 and Tri-X a roll at a time(120 film). I then scan it with a Nikon and print. If you shoot chrome (I do Ektachrome) then Kula in Hartford has same day turnaround. In fact, Kula may do silver B&W on site as well, I never checked.

Good luck!

Another CT resident. I was a little disappointed last time I ran into Simonds. They have the basic stock, but were real low on tanks and "hardware." I ended up picking up stuff from B&H and Freestyle.