Tips for using Nikon coolscan V

JoeMac

JoeMac

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I just got a Nikon coolscan V and have run some negatives through it with good results, but was wondering if there are any tips and/or tricks that others have learned to help make the best possible scans.
Thanks
Joe
 
I also endorse vuescan BUT, to be more agnostic, considering using something with more control than NikonScan gives you. That's rather important.

Also, develop for less contrast, don't overexpose, and learn the issues with grain aliasing and how to combat that.

allan
 
The film holder strip F-H-3 available as an extra, seems at least in my experience, to offer much better edge flatness than the automated film feeder and another vote for Vuescan.
 
Simon, would you mind posting a comparison between film holders? I am trying to decide whether or not to buy it.

much appreciated.

adam
 
shaaktiman said:
Simon, would you mind posting a comparison between film holders? I am trying to decide whether or not to buy it.

much appreciated.

adam
Click to expand...

I'll jump in: on the first and last frame of a 6 frames strip, you'll get visibly unsharp grain on the whole left (respectively right) side of the image using the default automatic roll feeder. With the FH-3 when you care to cover the curling edge of the frame under the FH-3 holder frame you will get the whole scan with the same grain sharpness.

This can be annoying when you've looked at 100% images and know what the softness is (that is: you look at the grain pattern). If you don't know you might confuse it for image softness. I'd recommend getting the FH-3. Btw: I've made some experiments to get around the grain aliasing issue and wrote a short article with examples on my web site.
 
And, to merely "second" ffttklackdedeng's (phew) post, I have seen the same thing. My IV came with the FH-3, and I use it for the first and last frames, if my auto-feed "previewing" of the whole roll. The softness on the edge is very, very noticeable.

allan
 
NL2377 said:
Vuescan, the best 89 dollars I spent...
Click to expand...

Can you elaborate?

Now I've sussed how to batch scan I've found the level of control pretty good.

I always scan at 14 bit colour - even B&W, leave the levels and curves to default and use the default USM settings. The rest I'll do in photoshop.

I've noticed the soft edges mentioned elsewhere in the thread but so far my enlargements have cropped this out - although it is a little annoying.

Slides are fine though so it must be the auto filmstrip holder.

Seeing as I rarely print above 8x12 I'm wondering if its really necessary to scan at 4000 dpi each time?
 
ncd_photo said:
Seeing as I rarely print above 8x12 I'm wondering if its really necessary to scan at 4000 dpi each time?
Click to expand...

It's better in terms of grain aliasing avoidance. Btw: I'm scanning b&w film in 16bit b&w (saving harddisk space)
 
If you're using NikonScan, then you are getting a slightly more aggressive approach to your histogram than with Vuescan, and probably with Silverfast. In Vuescan, I always have a bit of room to either side of the histogram, meaning that I've captured everything I can out of that negative. Also, since I can apply different, pre-deteremined film/dev contrast curves, I can produce slightly different tonal scales _and_ combat thin or thick negatives on a per-frame basis.

Finally, it is wise to avoid using any sharpening, in my opinion, at the scan stage. I use sharpening in photoshop initially just to bring it up to a basic level, then smart sharpening based on output size when printing.

allan
 
ffttklackdedeng said:
It's better in terms of grain aliasing avoidance. Btw: I'm scanning b&w film in 16bit b&w (saving harddisk space)
Click to expand...

I'll have to give it a go.

One tip I read in B&W photography was to scan as a positive in 16 bit, this gives you the largest dynamic range with less chance of clipping, then invert in photoshop.

The image initially looks all washed out and low contrast but with some selective curves i.e. digital dodge and burn you get the image as you want it.

I tried this using my older epson flatbed but it was very effective albeit time consuming.
 
Hello, Can I join here re the Fh 3 film holder? I assume it fits in the slide holder and previews and scans the complete strip of six. Or is it just the end frames? I am very wary of the way the film jusr gets dragged in would love to fit the film in a holder.
Any advice would be great. Re the software Vuescan wins every time. I have used Silverfast but it does not seem to offer much more in the way of quality and it certainly is value for money, easy to use and reliable. Regards Tony
 
kaiyen said:
In Vuescan, I always have a bit of room to either side of the histogram, meaning that I've captured everything I can out of that negative. Also, since I can apply different, pre-deteremined film/dev contrast curves, I can produce slightly different tonal scales _and_ combat thin or thick negatives on a per-frame basis.

Finally, it is wise to avoid using any sharpening, in my opinion, at the scan stage. I use sharpening in photoshop initially just to bring it up to a basic level, then smart sharpening based on output size when printing.

allan
Click to expand...

Vuescan. Runs on OSX, Linux and (if you are stuck with it) Windows.
Agree with everything above.
 
The scanner does not scan the whole FH-3 holder. You put in the strip, and move part of the holder around back/forth to get it over the scanning position. Can feel a little scary to do it manually, to be honest.

allan
 
It's supposed to be for film flatness. If you look carefully at the neg in the FH3 film holder (even when properly seated in the frame), you'll see the edges bow away (toward the emusion side). You can observe this best from the non-emulsion (shiny side). This can only cause blur in the corners. I haven't contacted Focal Point directly, but I suspect the glass is placed on the non-emusion side to flatten the negative. Note; my negs are pretty flat as a rule and there's still a lot of bowing.

Ron
 
Maybe I'll buy it and see what happens. I wonder how the heck it would fit, though, to be honest...

allan
 
Oh, and the anti-newton glass (as opposed to std glass) should prevent or limit the phenomenon of Newton's Rings in the final scan. These are interference patterns. See: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton's_rings

Ron
 
kaiyen said:
Maybe I'll buy it and see what happens. I wonder how the heck it would fit, though, to be honest...

allan
Click to expand...

Yeah, I had the same thought. There doesn't seem to be much room for a slab of glass in that holder apparatus.

Let us know if you try it and how it works.

Ron
 
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