Letien
Established
Hi all,
I'm new to B&W and I want to try develop my film. I have an old large powder chemical stock to make 10 gallon D76. The label told me to mix part A to Part B. Now I want to make a small amount, What precise ratio of these two chemical should I try. They are both hafl used so I don't know the original weight of the package to figure out the ratio. The part A bag is about 4 pounds and the small one about 1/2 pound.
Thanks
I'm new to B&W and I want to try develop my film. I have an old large powder chemical stock to make 10 gallon D76. The label told me to mix part A to Part B. Now I want to make a small amount, What precise ratio of these two chemical should I try. They are both hafl used so I don't know the original weight of the package to figure out the ratio. The part A bag is about 4 pounds and the small one about 1/2 pound.
Thanks
Andrew3511
Established
The proportions sound about right to me. I would assume that whoever has used it before used it in the right proportions, so go for 8:1. However just how much to use is another question altogether. I've used the Ilford equivalent (ID11) for years and about 250g of powder makes a litre of stock. I've generally then used it diluted 1:3 as a one-shot.
HTH
HTH
Rolleijoe
Member
Chemistry is cheap.....throw it out and get a bottle of Rodinal.
fidget
Lemon magnet
I recently thought of doing that with my 5ltr ID11 pack. I mentioned that at my photog club, who said that each bag of powder was a mix of ingredients which could be expected to have settled, (like your breakfast museli, don't you hate that) so taking a little to mix could easily have strange ratios of ingredients. You don't know how earlier portions were removed.
Good for tests and so on, but with so many other variables involved in getting good negs, do you need another?
Dave....
Good for tests and so on, but with so many other variables involved in getting good negs, do you need another?
Dave....
mich8261
Well-known
what Fidget said.
I am currently taking a B&W photo class and the first instruction about mixing chemicals was: "Always mix the full package".
Now I have a question about Rodinal. I see it mentioned a lot. Why do people prefer this over D-76 (which is what I have to use for my class)? Is it easier to use? Less harmful? Longer lasting?
thanks.
I am currently taking a B&W photo class and the first instruction about mixing chemicals was: "Always mix the full package".
Now I have a question about Rodinal. I see it mentioned a lot. Why do people prefer this over D-76 (which is what I have to use for my class)? Is it easier to use? Less harmful? Longer lasting?
thanks.
fidget
Lemon magnet
mich8261 said:Now I have a question about Rodinal. I see it mentioned a lot. Why do people prefer this over D-76 (which is what I have to use for my class)? Is it easier to use? Less harmful? Longer lasting?
thanks.
Me too, I would like to know what it is about Rodinal (sorry to lead the thread away from it's origin)
Does it keep well?
Does it lead to grainier pics, (not really an issue for MF work, so still of interest)
Dave.....
R
rich815
Guest
Similar questions have been posed elsewhere and most people report that you simply cannot be assured that all the different chemicals that make up the mix are properly proportioned out in only using smaller amounts instead of the whole pouch. Not worth your time, effort, possibly wasted film, lost subject matter, etc. Throw it out and get some more, or another developer.
R
rich815
Guest
fidget said:Me too, I would like to know what it is about Rodinal (sorry to lead the thread away from it's origin)
Does it keep well?
Does it lead to grainier pics, (not really an issue for MF work, so still of interest)
Dave.....
I had a bottle of Rodinal I bought in Hong Kong when I lived in Beijing. I moved back to the states in 2001 and forgot about it. Found it about a year ago. It had turned black as the night. Worked perfectly. I've heard reports of Rodinal older than that still being fine.
In terms of "grainier" pics Rodinal does gives a higher edge effect and thus a more grainy look. Not necessarily a bad thing but if you are looking to minimize grain, especially in photos with big skies for example, you may not like it. I personally like at least a little grain (otherwise why shoot film----go digital!) and really like the sharpness I get with Rodinal so I use it a lot.
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
fidget said:Me too, I would like to know what it is about Rodinal (sorry to lead the thread away from it's origin)
Does it keep well?
Does it lead to grainier pics, (not really an issue for MF work, so still of interest)
Dave.....
Rodinal is one of the oldest developers available
See in the unblinkingeye.com articles one called Appreciating Rodinal
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html
It is certainly a great developer for slow films
I like to add vitamin C to it to improve graininess
Last edited:
Xmas
Veteran
Yes I've just used up my bottle bought in '79 ish, the previous bottle I discarded when it was only about 15 years old I was stupid...
It was a glass bottle, rubber stopper, with screw on cap. I even recall Johnson's clone Azol?
Noel
It was a glass bottle, rubber stopper, with screw on cap. I even recall Johnson's clone Azol?
Noel
nasmformyzombie
Registered
titrisol said:Rodinal is one of the oldest developers available
See in the unblinkingeye.com articles one called Appreciating Rodinal
http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Rodinal/rodinal.html
It is certainly a great developer for slow films
I like to add vitamin C to it to improve graininess![]()
How much vitamin C?
P
pshinkaw
Guest
I am currently using up some D-76 that is over 20 years old. never mixed. Works fine.
If it the powder is still white, it is still good. However, don't try to divide the package. If it says 10 gallons you will have to mix up 10 gallons of it. You can divide it up into individual 1 gallon bottles after it is diluted, but wait about a week or so an make sure that it is completely dissolved before dividing.
That size with the separated chemicals is an old commercial pack. The consumer sizes were one gallon bags (or cans back in the 60's and earlier).
Every B&W photographer has preferences and prejudices. Most are well grounded in some factual basis. Rodinal is good stuff unless you don't like it. (I do for certain applications) The same goes for D-76. Personally I have trouble liking HC110. but that's another story.
-Paul
If it the powder is still white, it is still good. However, don't try to divide the package. If it says 10 gallons you will have to mix up 10 gallons of it. You can divide it up into individual 1 gallon bottles after it is diluted, but wait about a week or so an make sure that it is completely dissolved before dividing.
That size with the separated chemicals is an old commercial pack. The consumer sizes were one gallon bags (or cans back in the 60's and earlier).
Every B&W photographer has preferences and prejudices. Most are well grounded in some factual basis. Rodinal is good stuff unless you don't like it. (I do for certain applications) The same goes for D-76. Personally I have trouble liking HC110. but that's another story.
-Paul
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
4 g/l
in half the water add vitamin C first, then neutralize with bicarbonate untill fizzing stops
then add rest of water
then the Rodinal and presto!!!
1+50+C use times for 1+25 as starter...
It is in the article
in half the water add vitamin C first, then neutralize with bicarbonate untill fizzing stops
then add rest of water
then the Rodinal and presto!!!
1+50+C use times for 1+25 as starter...
It is in the article
nasmformyzombie said:How much vitamin C?
Rolleijoe
Member
mich8261 said:what Fidget said.
I have a question about Rodinal. I see it mentioned a lot. Why do people prefer this over D-76 (which is what I have to use for my class)? Is it easier to use? Less harmful? Longer lasting?
thanks.
Once you learn of all the plethera of film developers available, D-76 becomes
a joke (IMO).
Rodinal is the world's oldest patented film developer (1891), and is still going
strong. The dilution choices are nearly limitless, giving endless results.
There are several "standard" dilutions, (1:25. 1:50, 1:100), and some even use
it 1:200! Try that with D-76! Higher dilutions can help control grain, & achieve
a greater tonal palette. Of course, in MF & larger, grain is never an issue.
There are stories of WW2 photographers pillaging photographic shops in
Germany immediately after the war for chemistry/film/paper they could use to
finish their assignments. Several bottles of Rodinal were discovered with pre
WW1 dates on them, and were absolutely fine. That's more than 20 years!
Rodinal lasts for years, is extremely durable, economical, & versatile.
While the rest of the world tries to offer a multitude of developers, Agfa
(inventors of Rodinal) got it correct right away with only 3!
Rodinal [standard legendary film developer]
Rodinal Special (aka Studional) [liquid fine-grain developer]
Refinal [powder fine-grain developer]
Fortunately all Agfa chemistry is available from Freestyle, and anything not on
the shelf can be special ordered. Try Rodinal, I think you'll like it.
Rhoyle
Well-known
So here's what I do fwiw....I only develop b+w from time to time, usually only 1 or 2 rolls at a time. I happen to like Plus-X developed in D-76. I'll go out and buy a 1 gallon sack of D-76 powder, mix it up VERY THOROUGHLY and put it in a mason jar with a tight lid. Then store it in my dark basement. When I'm ready to us it, I mix it up again and use 2 tablespoons (I use and old coffee scoop) to 600 ml. of water. Then develop normally. I have never been dissatisfied with the results. Call me nuts, but it works.
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