For Newbie Scale Focussers

shadowfox said:
Very cool, although I use the general size of human head and body as the guide. And bracketing (focus, not aperture) is usually worth the extra one or two frames it takes.
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How do you mean? Do you refer to zone focusing camera's featuring three focus settings depicted by a picture of a head, a person and a mountain scene?

Do you have a similar scale in your mind that converts to distance readings?

Groeten,

Vic
 
This is good stuff, fellas.

I think scale focus RFs are in the minority here, but this could also be used with a "proper" rangefinder whose mechanism is inaccurate or inoperative.

If you've always wanted a Leica, but don't want to spend the $1200, maybe a nice one is available with a busted rangefinder for cheap?
 
With a little practice one can estimate distance pretty accurately.
DOF of a 35-40mm lens will usually cover minor miscalculations...

Chris
 
vicmortelmans said:
How do you mean? Do you refer to zone focusing camera's featuring three focus settings depicted by a picture of a head, a person and a mountain scene?

Do you have a similar scale in your mind that converts to distance readings?

Groeten,

Vic
Click to expand...

I wish I have a built in distance scale in my mind :D

What I meant was I estimate the size of the object in relation to human head. If the object's size is about the same as a head, I can fill the frame with the object and set the distance to less than 1 meter. If I can fit twice the size of the human head in the frame, that distance is 1.5-2 meter. If I can fit a whole bunch of head-sized objects, or the whole human body size, I just pick 3 meter. Anything bigger than that, I just pick 5 meter and then shoot.

This method works with small scale focus cameras like Olympus Pen D2, XA2, Rollei 35, etc.

MVG,
Will
 
I need to try one of these. I usually go by the "dead faint" method: If I fell flat on my face, what would I hit my head on? That's about 6 feet away. :) Unfortunately this method has certain limitations.
 
All of the above seem particularily interesting.
Once I get back to the UK I think I'll have to try these various methods, see which works best.
 
I try to be dead on at about 3 feet (nose to the tip of out stretched finger at the side of my body), 6 feet (I'd just miss it if I fainted, depending on what heals I have on, never mind) and 15 feet (free throw line in Basket ball). Anything more DOF has it covered. But then I would only shoot this way with 28 or wider.

I would pick three or four lengths to learn, get dead on accurate with them. Make them far enough so they are meaningful and then go in between them as you shoot when you need to. I find three OK for my stuff, but then I only do Wide with scale focus.


B2 (;->
 
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BillBingham2 said:
I would pick three or four lengths to learn, get dead on accurate with them.
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I agree there, BillB... IMHO, of course. While cards and calculations help learn distances, for me, the attractiveness of scale focusing is it's simplicity. The method I've found best is practice. 1m is an arm, 2m is a man, 3m is three steps and past that, practice and f8 help alot. ;) I miss one by a mile occasionally, but it gets better with time and practice.practice.practice. Good info and input in this thread; one to referenced by many.
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