Adox/Efke + Rodinal

[TNRL]

I have used Adox/Efke 25 with D-76, and god superb results.

I have read that rodinal is a good developer for fine grain film, and i am going to try that combo. Do you have any recomendations for dilutions and developing times? Maybe samples?

I am waiting for some Adox/Efke 50. How is that film in rodinal? Recomendations for times/dilutions for that film??

 

[EmilGil]

There was another thread about the use of Rodinal a few days ago, see if you can find it. Before I say anything else; Rodinal is not a fine grain developer but an acutance (grain sharpness) one. I haven't tried Efke films yet but I usually run my APX100 and PanF in Rodinal and get great results at box speed or slightly below.

Dev-times can be found here.

 

[traveller]

There are some nice results with dev-times to be found here.

But if you really want results that blow you away try to get some Tetenal Neofin Blue, Adox Adolux ATM49 or Finol (a new staining developer from Moersch). A friend of mine is testing this developers and showed me his first results yesterday. He will never use Rodinal with this film again.

 

[P C Headland]

Ekfe 25 and Rodinal is a very nice combination.

The secret is not to agitate too much.

Start with a two minute pre-soak. Then Rodinal 1+100 at 20C/68F for 17 minutes. Five gentle inversions (in 15s) at the start of each minute for first three minutes, then one gentle inversion every three minutes. Water stopl and fix as usual.

An alternative is a two minute pre-soak then Rodinal 1+100 for 1 hour. Gentle inversions for first minute, then stand for one hour. If you get the jitters, a couple of gentle inversions at the halfway mark won't hurt.

PC-TEA 1+50 also works very nicely with this film.

 

[Uncle Bill]

I have processed Adox/Efke 100 in Rodinal 1+50 and recieved wonderful results. It is a great combination.

Bill

 

[TNRL]

Thanks. I will try rodinal 1+100 in 17 mins.

 

[titrisol]

EFKE 25 in rodinal 1+100 for 10 minutes is superb

 

[vicmortelmans]

EFKE 25 in rodinal 1+100 for 10 minutes is superb

That's the second time in a few days that someone proposes quite low development time for high diluted Rodinal... Makes one wonder if it really matters if it's 10 or 20 minutes?

From what I read, long development time would be useful to get the maximum shadow detail that the film can give, also due to the compensating effect.

Another fact is that when developping in 1+100, you risk that the developer agent runs out before development has finished, so if you don't add extra volume, there's a good chance that the developing process stops after e.g. 10 minutes and the extra time doesn't make a difference at all.

Just some thoughts... no conclusions.

Groeten,

Vic

 

[titrisol]

EFKE 25 is the only film I'd give such little dev time in Rodinal 1+100, with agitation.
More than that the highlights tend to blow.

If you give it more time agitation needs to be a lot less.

For 100 or more speed film, about 1 hour in 1+100 (almost no agitation) would do.

That's the second time in a few days that someone proposes quite low development time for high diluted Rodinal... Makes one wonder if it really matters if it's 10 or 20 minutes?

From what I read, long development time would be useful to get the maximum shadow detail that the film can give, also due to the compensating effect.

Another fact is that when developping in 1+100, you risk that the developer agent runs out before development has finished, so if you don't add extra volume, there's a good chance that the developing process stops after e.g. 10 minutes and the extra time doesn't make a difference at all.

Just some thoughts... no conclusions.

Groeten,

Vic

 

[TNRL]

Ive tried adox 25 at EI 25 and 50 in Rodinal 1+100 now.

EI 25 for 12 mins with 6-7sec agitation each min + the first min. It was good results for scanning.

EI 50 for 18 mins with agitation the first half min, then for 10sec agitation each min for 10 min, and at last 10sec agitation each 2min the rest. I think it was too contrasty for scanning.

I was not pleased with my results compared to D-76 for 6 min with adox 25 EI 50. D-76 made (allmost) completely invisible grain, nice contrasts, and was easy to work with.

 

[jobo]

EFKE 25 is the only film I'd give such little dev time in Rodinal 1+100, with agitation. More than that the highlights tend to blow.

Dang, wish I had read this yesterday. I ran ADOX 50@80 for 17 min 1+100, agitation every three minutes, and sure enough the highlights are completely blown. :bang:

/Johannes

 

[titrisol]

Just enlarge through a green filter then.
if you are scanning then you are in trouble
You may have to scan twice, with different exposures and blend the 2 images

Dang, wish I had read this yesterday. I ran ADOX 50@80 for 17 min 1+100, agitation every three minutes, and sure enough the highlights are completely blown. :bang:

/Johannes

 

[jobo]

Just enlarge through a green filter then.
if you are scanning then you are in trouble
You may have to scan twice, with different exposures and blend the 2 images

I'm scanning, mostly, but the green filter thing sounds very interesting.

( Lets see, should i look for one at Calumet (literally across the street) or at Foto Impex? Decisions... 😀 )

Thanks, /Jobo

 

[ddunn]

I used the Adox 25/Rodinal combination back in the late '50's and 60's. Bob Schwalberg wrote a number of articles in Popular Photography in the late '50's on high acutance photography. The emphasis was on edge sharpness, not fine grain. Glad to see it's back🙂

 

[lushd]

Here's that very combination from my gallery:

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=34971&ppuser=1346

Dilution was 1 + 100 (i.e. 3ml Rodinal in 300 ml water) and the time eludes me now but was probably about 16 mins (don't take this as advice!). The slightly blown highlight is owing to the reduction of the file to a JPEG. I have a print from the original scan where all tones are present.

 

[titrisol]

I ended up buying a cokin green filter for bullet proof negatives.
Rev. Sidney Flack is the one that propsoed this method and works like a charm

HOWEVER, do a test print with grade 1.5 or 2 first and assess the amount of damage using a real darkroom. Most scanners can not handle dark zones as paper can

I'm scanning, mostly, but the green filter thing sounds very interesting.

( Lets see, should i look for one at Calumet (literally across the street) or at Foto Impex? Decisions... 😀 )

Thanks, /Jobo