What to look for in a Leica I Model A

Jbennett68 · 2025-11-08T12:23:29-0800

Kind of interested in acquiring a 1a. What kinds of things effect the value on these and what should I look for outside acceptable functionality obviously. I’ve read many were upgraded but unsure what that consists of and if that has a negative effect on value. Any insights?

Nitroplait · 2025-11-08T12:42:28-0800

If upgraded, it would normally be to a Leica II or above and thus no longer be a IA.

Jbennett68 · 2025-11-08T14:04:21-0800

Nitroplait said:
If upgraded, it would normally be to a Leica II or above and thus no longer be a IA.

I didn't know what they meant by upgrades.

Rob-F · 2025-11-08T14:22:13-0800

Jbennett68 said:
I didn't know what they meant by upgrades.

It might help that they are more often called "conversions" than upgrades.

Dralowid · 2025-11-09T00:29:31-0800

Volumes have been written about the subtle differences that can be found on a 'hockey stick' Leica. These differences, however small, affect collectability and consequently price. All sorts of things might have been changed/altered from the original, shutter release, vulcanite, engravings, baseplate catch, knobs etc etc. And then there is the issue of 'restoration'.

Not sure where to start, it might be best to find a camera for sale and then ask other's opinions.

This won't help... OstLicht Auction

Jbennett68 · 2025-11-09T06:59:26-0800

Dralowid said:
Volumes have been written about the subtle differences that can be found on a 'hockey stick' Leica. These differences, however small, affect collectability and consequently price. All sorts of things might have been changed/altered from the original, shutter release, vulcanite, engravings, baseplate catch, knobs etc etc. And then there is the issue of 'restoration'.

Not sure where to start, it might be best to find a camera for sale and then ask other's opinions.

This won't help... OstLicht Auction

Oh gosh.

WoodallP · 2025-11-09T08:28:21-0800

If you just want one for the fun of using it I'd go for something in the 30K plus serial number, in working but not pristine condition with it's original RF (also working). I'd expect this to be in the 1000-1500 ($/€/£). The curtains tend to be pretty robust but some basic maintenance and a service are always a good idea. The disadvantage of an A is that it all has to be done at once whereas with a standardised model C you can split the work and indeed use another lens entirely.

neal3k · 2025-11-09T09:02:29-0800

If you just want one for the fun of shooting, it won't matter as much. I bought mine a few years back and it had just been CLA'd and recovered. I just wanted to shoot with the classic and it is perfect for me. I shoot Sunny 16 and stopped when down for daylight, have a good zone of focus that makes estimating range easy. Most of the time it is a point and shoot that way. I probably shoot mine more than many, with over 200 photos in my Flickr Leica IA album. I would have more but I shoot a lot with four other black Barnacks too.

This is the first photo I ever took with mine, April 2021 with Ilford FP4+ film.

Back Road by Neal Wellons, on Flickr

d_c · 2025-11-09T10:43:13-0800

If you’re buying a shooter, as I was when got mine a year or so back, then this helps clarify some of the decisions you need to make. You won’t for example need to consider spending the extra to get something with a four digit serial, and you can target getting something that’s been film tested so you know the shutter curtains are okay, and that has a decent lens, rather than something with mint paintwork. A few usability things, if you get one of the early cameras that have a mushroom shutter release then you usually need to hold down the shutter release as you rewind the film - it’s not a big deal but it’s just a bit more awkward than later versions. I’d definitely suggest using the accessory shoe for a SBOOI viewfinder instead of a rangefinder and I’d consider getting a SVOOP/(14021?) take up spool with the sprung centre spindle. CLA options for these cameras are a bit limited as a lot of places don’t want to touch something that early so the more useable your camera is when you get it the easier it will be.

Jbennett68 · 2025-11-09T11:02:09-0800

d_c said:
If you’re buying a shooter, as I was when got mine a year or so back, then this helps clarify some of the decisions you need to make. You won’t for example need to consider spending the extra to get something with a four digit serial, and you can target getting something that’s been film tested so you know the shutter curtains are okay, and that has a decent lens, rather than something with mint paintwork. A few usability things, if you get one of the early cameras that have a mushroom shutter release then you usually need to hold down the shutter release as you rewind the film - it’s not a big deal but it’s just a bit more awkward than later versions. I’d definitely suggest using the accessory shoe for a SBOOI viewfinder instead of a rangefinder and I’d consider getting a SVOOP/(14021?) take up spool with the sprung centre spindle. CLA options for these cameras are a bit limited as a lot of places don’t want to touch something that early so the more useable your camera is when you get it the easier it will be.

Definitely want a user. Don’t want one so pristine im scared to take it out.

Jbennett68 · 2025-11-09T14:58:29-0800

Now I ran accross a decent I e standard with a f2 summar that looks like a good price and I’m asking myself if I really care about the hockey stick. 🏒

What to look for in a Leica I Model A

Jbennett68

Well-known

Nitroplait

Well-known

Jbennett68

Well-known

Rob-F

Likes Leicas

Dralowid

Michael

Jbennett68

Well-known

WoodallP

Pragmatist Barnack lover

neal3k

Well-known

d_c

Well-known

Jbennett68

Well-known

Jbennett68

Well-known

Thread viewers

Similar threads