fidget
Lemon magnet
Hi, I've been itching to have a go at 3D photography. I recently bought one of those mirror type attachments (Russian made) which then doubles up as the slide viewer when a further attachment is added. This puts the two images on the same slide. I was keen to try it out, and as I already had a few frames left in my Nikon F70, tried a few on the standard 50mm lens. This kit is clearly suited to a rangefinder, but I got good exposures on the SLR.
The images which came back all exhibit a similar problem, where the sides of each image (on the edge of the slide) seem to blend into a different perspective.
The 50mm lens I used has the fairly deeply recessed front element, so could this be due to the attachment being too far away from the front element?
The images which came back all exhibit a similar problem, where the sides of each image (on the edge of the slide) seem to blend into a different perspective.
The 50mm lens I used has the fairly deeply recessed front element, so could this be due to the attachment being too far away from the front element?
Attachments
fidget
Lemon magnet
Doh! I just thought that I don't need to throw a slide film/post/processing/post at this, I can see the effect or lack of it on any print or negative. Must be the poor weather getting at me.
Dave..
Dave..
Xmas
Veteran
Dave
They normally came with a clip on (flat baffle/) hood for photos which you removed for projection did you use the hood?
Insure about your term '...different perspective' do you get a stereo window effect?
Noel
They normally came with a clip on (flat baffle/) hood for photos which you removed for projection did you use the hood?
Insure about your term '...different perspective' do you get a stereo window effect?
Noel
Xmas
Veteran
Dave
There is always a problem in the gap between the two images, if that is what you mean, I dont recall if distance from the optic would make a difference, I've only used a OM1 5cm f2 which is a lot closer than your Nikon. I'll have to try a few frames later on f2 and f3.5 macro (both 5cm but the macro is really recessed) and advise any difference.
You have to use f8 or smaller I believe...
Noel
There is always a problem in the gap between the two images, if that is what you mean, I dont recall if distance from the optic would make a difference, I've only used a OM1 5cm f2 which is a lot closer than your Nikon. I'll have to try a few frames later on f2 and f3.5 macro (both 5cm but the macro is really recessed) and advise any difference.
You have to use f8 or smaller I believe...
Noel
fidget
Lemon magnet
Thanks for this Noel. It came with instructions, but in Russian of course.
The effect that I mean can be seen in the right photo where the right hand side of the monument and fence appears to fade away. The (complete?) kit came with a little clip on square piece which seems to belong between the apertures of the attchment, making each aperture a little narrower (if you leave it on, I didn't, oops
). Restricted to f8? That's going to be difficult.
Dave..
The effect that I mean can be seen in the right photo where the right hand side of the monument and fence appears to fade away. The (complete?) kit came with a little clip on square piece which seems to belong between the apertures of the attchment, making each aperture a little narrower (if you leave it on, I didn't, oops
). Restricted to f8? That's going to be difficult. Dave..
Xmas
Veteran
Dave
Looked mine out and is is fogged and needs a clean.
There are four separate bits with mine,
- a cover fitting between the periscopes outer faces
- a square aperature fitting between the periscopea and the lens
- a two rectangular window aperature ditto
- a threaded camera adapter that seems to be a spacer between the camera and the periscope, it has lots of thread and a lock to set the periscopes horisontal.
No instructions, no viewer, I got it new about '95.
I believe you remove the aperatures for projection but use them for taking pictures.
I do see the effect you mean I think mine is similar just looking through it.
If you dont use f8 or smaller then the 'eye pupil of the camera will be larger then the periscopes and the stereo window wont be as effective, try 400 ASA film.
You need crossed polarisiers, on the projector, specs and a projector screen that retains the polarisation... I think you overexpose the slides a little
Noel
Looked mine out and is is fogged and needs a clean.
There are four separate bits with mine,
- a cover fitting between the periscopes outer faces
- a square aperature fitting between the periscopea and the lens
- a two rectangular window aperature ditto
- a threaded camera adapter that seems to be a spacer between the camera and the periscope, it has lots of thread and a lock to set the periscopes horisontal.
No instructions, no viewer, I got it new about '95.
I believe you remove the aperatures for projection but use them for taking pictures.
I do see the effect you mean I think mine is similar just looking through it.
If you dont use f8 or smaller then the 'eye pupil of the camera will be larger then the periscopes and the stereo window wont be as effective, try 400 ASA film.
You need crossed polarisiers, on the projector, specs and a projector screen that retains the polarisation... I think you overexpose the slides a little
Noel
Dave, in looking crosseyed at your posted image I was able to bring up the stereo effect. Not very strong, but it's there. Not sure what you mean by "different perspective" as they merged fine for me.
I have the Pentax-made unit from years ago and recall using it then. The width and fuzziness of the dividing area in the center does change with aperture, using a small aperture being better as I recall. I was not particularly impressed with this stereo adaptor idea, though stereo is a cool idea, and better implemented on a dedicated stereo camera.
I have the Pentax-made unit from years ago and recall using it then. The width and fuzziness of the dividing area in the center does change with aperture, using a small aperture being better as I recall. I was not particularly impressed with this stereo adaptor idea, though stereo is a cool idea, and better implemented on a dedicated stereo camera.
fidget
Lemon magnet
Thanks, Doug and Noel.
Seems that I haven't appreciated the short comings of this kit.
The perspective change I speak of isn't in the stereo rendition but is present in both images. In the RH image, the post on the rh side should not even be in view, notice how the fence and monument fade away on the RHS. I had a further play with this, aside from the choice of aperture (can't remember) I think that the gizmo is held too far away from the lens (it's recessed by about 18mm). OK, back to the RF and Industar 61 then! (must get a filter step up ring)
PS, a Nokton 50/1.5 which I've bought from a fellow member here has arrived today (this has a 52mm filter thread also)....but I guess that low light wide open aperture stereo shots are off then?
Dave
Seems that I haven't appreciated the short comings of this kit.
The perspective change I speak of isn't in the stereo rendition but is present in both images. In the RH image, the post on the rh side should not even be in view, notice how the fence and monument fade away on the RHS. I had a further play with this, aside from the choice of aperture (can't remember) I think that the gizmo is held too far away from the lens (it's recessed by about 18mm). OK, back to the RF and Industar 61 then! (must get a filter step up ring)
PS, a Nokton 50/1.5 which I've bought from a fellow member here has arrived today (this has a 52mm filter thread also)....but I guess that low light wide open aperture stereo shots are off then?
Dave
Xmas
Veteran
Dave
I wont be able to clean mine quickly but I'll try it anyway as it is.
You need to accept different criteria, the photo needs to have a small vertical rectangle about 10 feet away and everything needs to be in both views, a SLR should be easier, as you can sidestep 'obstacles' like the post.
And you have left a terrible opening. you need a pair of kievs with 2xJ3 for low light shots... a short length of threaded studding for baseplate to baseplate, instant GAS x2.
Noel
I wont be able to clean mine quickly but I'll try it anyway as it is.
You need to accept different criteria, the photo needs to have a small vertical rectangle about 10 feet away and everything needs to be in both views, a SLR should be easier, as you can sidestep 'obstacles' like the post.
And you have left a terrible opening. you need a pair of kievs with 2xJ3 for low light shots... a short length of threaded studding for baseplate to baseplate, instant GAS x2.
Noel
fidget
Lemon magnet
Xmas said:
I've got a nice Zenit Cosmorex with Helios 44 which might do well with this.
Until now I had thought that I should get rid of it, now it has a photographic purpose! How neat is that
GAS Ha! Didn't I tell you? I'm cured! :angel: (1)
Dave....
Small print,
Note (1, spending a little time away from FSU GAS for a while, whilst dipping a toe {arm and a leg } into CV GAS)
divewizard
perspicaz
stereo cameras
stereo cameras
The best way to do stereo photography is with a stereo camera.
The new Fuji stereo digital P&S cameras suck. I have a W1 and I had to return two before I got one where the lenses were even close to being in focus. I have never been very happy with results. You can see some best results here.
There are many Realist format cameras (from the 1950's) to be had that take great pictures. These camera use 5 perforations per frame (as opposed to 8 for standard 35mm) and thus can not be scanned commercially at the time of development. However the quality of the better cameras is outstanding. The slides when viewed with a stereo viewer are great.
There are also many Realist cameras that are true rangefinders as well. The best models have Tessar quads. They are the Wollensak Stereo 10 and the Realist 2.8. The others have Cooke triplets, but most of the lenses are great. The best triplet rangefinders are the Revere Stereo 33, Realist 3.5, and the TDC Stereo Colorist II of which the Revere would be my choice. There are also some good scale focus models. The best is the Realist 45 followed by the TDC Stereo Colorist. You can find details on all of them here. I used a Realist 45 for many years and got some great photos with it, you can see some of there here.
There is a scale focus Russian model that has European (7 perf) format frames called the FED Stereo that can still be had new. It has automatic exposure and suprising good lenses considering the poor quality construction.
You can also twin digital cameras. I made a circuit to simultaneously trigger two Olympus E-410 DLSRs. The setup takes great photos but is large and I have to use a mono pod to support it. You can see some examples with that rig here.
stereo cameras
The best way to do stereo photography is with a stereo camera.
The new Fuji stereo digital P&S cameras suck. I have a W1 and I had to return two before I got one where the lenses were even close to being in focus. I have never been very happy with results. You can see some best results here.
There are many Realist format cameras (from the 1950's) to be had that take great pictures. These camera use 5 perforations per frame (as opposed to 8 for standard 35mm) and thus can not be scanned commercially at the time of development. However the quality of the better cameras is outstanding. The slides when viewed with a stereo viewer are great.
There are also many Realist cameras that are true rangefinders as well. The best models have Tessar quads. They are the Wollensak Stereo 10 and the Realist 2.8. The others have Cooke triplets, but most of the lenses are great. The best triplet rangefinders are the Revere Stereo 33, Realist 3.5, and the TDC Stereo Colorist II of which the Revere would be my choice. There are also some good scale focus models. The best is the Realist 45 followed by the TDC Stereo Colorist. You can find details on all of them here. I used a Realist 45 for many years and got some great photos with it, you can see some of there here.
There is a scale focus Russian model that has European (7 perf) format frames called the FED Stereo that can still be had new. It has automatic exposure and suprising good lenses considering the poor quality construction.
You can also twin digital cameras. I made a circuit to simultaneously trigger two Olympus E-410 DLSRs. The setup takes great photos but is large and I have to use a mono pod to support it. You can see some examples with that rig here.
bolohead
Joel Cosseboom
If you need to have prints made, you can use this outfit. I've had great results with them. I shoot with the 4 lens Nishika N8000.