A Few Developing Questions from a Beginner

[jrose125]

Hello guys/gals! I'm going to be picking up my first developing tank/chemicals this coming weekend and was wondering a few things.

1) Do I need a changing bag or will my dark basement suffice (no windows)?

2) What sort of graduates should I pick up? I was thinking on picking up the Delta 1 set off eBay but I'm not sure I need so many different cups.

3) What sort of containers should I use to store my chemicals? I'm just developing B&W to start out so I'll only need to store 3 chemicals. I was thinking on picking up three Delta Datatainers from B&H but was wondering what you folks use.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[Moto-Uno]

^ If after 10 minutes in the dark room you can see no sources of light you should be fine.
If you're planning on starting with D-76 you're going to need one 4L container and another 1L to store it in.
The stop bath and fixer should only require a 1L container.
A glass measuring cup is probably good enough for most measurements , if using Rodinal or Blazinol straight from the bottle then something that accurately measures in cc's would be a good idea .
Have fun , I sure do !
Peter

 

[roscoetuff]

Hey... good idea. Thinking about something similar myself. Trying to find a class, and have watched a few youtubes, but I'm wondering whether you can really get all you need in a youtube... except the obvious - there's really not much attention paid in the youtubes I've seen to safe handling practices... and I have seen some of the community labs mentioning eye wash, aprons, etc.

Thoughts? Suggestions? No need to rush in my case.

 

[jrose125]

^ If after 10 minutes in the dark room you can see no sources of light you should be fine.
If you're planning on starting with D-76 you're going to need one 4L container and another 1L to store it in.
The stop bath and fixer should only require a 1L container.
A glass measuring cup is probably good enough for most measurements , if using Rodinal or Blazinol straight from the bottle then something that accurately measures in cc's would be a good idea .
Have fun , I sure do !
Peter

Thanks for the tip! My local camera store has both Ilford and Kodak chemicals but the owner suggested that I start with the Ilfosol-3. Are there any major differences between the two that you know of?

Also, I've been warned to be very careful about not cross-contaminating the chemicals. Would I be fine with just one measuring cup or should I get one for each chemical?

Thanks for the help!

 

[MikeMGB]

You need one for each chemical, mine all came from the dollar store.

 

[jrose125]

Hey... good idea. Thinking about something similar myself. Trying to find a class, and have watched a few youtubes, but I'm wondering whether you can really get all you need in a youtube... except the obvious - there's really not much attention paid in the youtubes I've seen to safe handling practices... and I have seen some of the community labs mentioning eye wash, aprons, etc.

Thoughts? Suggestions? No need to rush in my case.

As a Bio major who has worked with some pretty nasty stuff, I'd recommend some rubber gloves but it's not necessary (from what I can tell). You're likely going to be diluting these chemicals but just be cautious when handling concentrates. Pour the chemicals on a surface around waist level and never hold the chemicals near your face (common sense, right?).

Lab aprons aren't necessary (even in a chemistry lab) unless you're working with highly acidic/basic solutions. Just be careful not to spill any on yourself or you might stain your clothes. I definitely wouldn't expose your skin (wear long sleeves if you feel you may spill some on yourself) to the chemicals as they might be corrosive/irritant.

You shouldn't have an issue with getting chemicals in your eyes unless your pouring way too aggressively or holding things up to your face. If you do happen to get some in your eyes, cup your hand and flush the effected eye with cold water. Eye wash stations do the same thing (albeit much more efficiently).

 

[venchka]

Water works for stop bath.
I used empty food grade 1/2 gallon plastic bottles for fixer. The Arizona Tea bottles were great.
Developer, stop water and fixer were all in a sink of water to equalize temperatures.
I put wash water in 1 liter bottles in the same sink as space permitted.
The liquids all stayed at about the same temperature. + or - 5 degrees is more than good enough.
Good luck!
Wayne


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jrose125]

You need one for each chemical, mine all came from the dollar store.

I figured that much. Do you use plastic or glass?

 

[Frontman]

Plastic works fine.

My local shop sells one-liter, plastic bottles. These are dark plastic, which does not let in light. Probably not necessary, but that is what all they sell. These cost $2 each. Make sure to mark the caps so you don't put them on the wrong bottles. If you can find different color bottles and caps, it would help.

A graduated plastic beaker which holds one liter of liquid cost another $2. A good thermometer was $10. I would also recommend a funnel, which makes pouring chemicals from the beaker to the tanks and bottles (and vice versa) easier and less messy. I use a $1 egg timer, it has worked for years with no trouble.

My biggest expense was a used Jobo 2500 series tank with two 35mm film reels, which cost me $25. I got this tank because it can also be used for 4x5 film, with the appropriate reels. I like these tanks because they are larger, and the temperature of the chemicals is more stable. In smaller tanks, the chemicals cool down more quickly.

Developer was $3, fixer $8. So altogether, it was not a very big investment.

The actual process takes a little bit of practice, but is easier than making pancakes. If you are using 35mm film, you need to pop the end off the film canister, and remove the spool and film. I cut off the leader, then unwind the film from the spool (while rolling the film that comes off into a roll) until I get to the end, which is taped to the spool. I cut the film near the tape and toss away the spool. I do it this way because trying to slide the film into the film reel can be a little difficult if the spool is hanging or swinging around.

Now I have 4 Jobo tanks, and develop film in larger lots. I pour chemicals from one tank to the next as I work, and I find that I can get a lot of film done in a relatively small amount of time.

Rubber gloves are a must, in my case because the chemicals tend to draw all the oil out of my skin, causing the skin to dry and crack. I used to develop sheet film in trays, but this was very hard on my hands, which is the main reason I went with the Jobo tanks.

If you use D76 (my favorite) make extra sure that the powder is completely absorbed by the water, it helps if you are using a clear beaker, so you can see when it is fully mixed in.

A drying agent is necessary to prevent spots on your negatives, a couple drops of dish washing liquid will work in a pinch, but make sure not to get it bubbly, dried bubbles on your negatives is not good.

I hang the negatives from a laundry device used for drying socks, these cost a couple dollars here in Japan. I put clothes pins on the bottom of the hanging strips of film to keep them straight.

Once the film is completely dry, you may notice that it is not flat, but curved. I roll up the film, emulsion side out, and let it remain that way for a couple days. When I unroll it, it is completely flat.

If you use Rollei films, they remain flat. I love IR400 for infrared shooting, but also for normal black-and-white shooting, even though it is a little expensive.

Have fun, I like to watch Youtube fail videos as I am developing my film,

 

[davidnewtonguitars]

I turned my bedroom into a darkroom when I was in high-school, stunk the place up big time.
Now I'm 65 just started developing again, and wanted to keep it as simple as possible. You should read the articles on "stand development" with Rodinal, it is a super-easy way to get into development with a high degree of success.

 

[jrose125]

Plastic works fine.

My local shop sells one-liter, plastic bottles. These are dark plastic, which does not let in light. Probably not necessary, but that is what all they sell. These cost $2 each. Make sure to mark the caps so you don't put them on the wrong bottles. If you can find different color bottles and caps, it would help.

A graduated plastic beaker which holds one liter of liquid cost another $2. A good thermometer was $10. I would also recommend a funnel, which makes pouring chemicals from the beaker to the tanks and bottles (and vice versa) easier and less messy. I use a $1 egg timer, it has worked for years with no trouble.

My biggest expense was a used Jobo 2500 series tank with two 35mm film reels, which cost me $25. I got this tank because it can also be used for 4x5 film, with the appropriate reels. I like these tanks because they are larger, and the temperature of the chemicals is more stable. In smaller tanks, the chemicals cool down more quickly.

Developer was $3, fixer $8. So altogether, it was not a very big investment.

The actual process takes a little bit of practice, but is easier than making pancakes. If you are using 35mm film, you need to pop the end off the film canister, and remove the spool and film. I cut off the leader, then unwind the film from the spool (while rolling the film that comes off into a roll) until I get to the end, which is taped to the spool. I cut the film near the tape and toss away the spool. I do it this way because trying to slide the film into the film reel can be a little difficult if the spool is hanging or swinging around.

Now I have 4 Jobo tanks, and develop film in larger lots. I pour chemicals from one tank to the next as I work, and I find that I can get a lot of film done in a relatively small amount of time.

Rubber gloves are a must, in my case because the chemicals tend to draw all the oil out of my skin, causing the skin to dry and crack. I used to develop sheet film in trays, but this was very hard on my hands, which is the main reason I went with the Jobo tanks.

If you use D76 (my favorite) make extra sure that the powder is completely absorbed by the water, it helps if you are using a clear beaker, so you can see when it is fully mixed in.

A drying agent is necessary to prevent spots on your negatives, a couple drops of dish washing liquid will work in a pinch, but make sure not to get it bubbly, dried bubbles on your negatives is not good.

I hang the negatives from a laundry device used for drying socks, these cost a couple dollars here in Japan. I put clothes pins on the bottom of the hanging strips of film to keep them straight.

Once the film is completely dry, you may notice that it is not flat, but curved. I roll up the film, emulsion side out, and let it remain that way for a couple days. When I unroll it, it is completely flat.

If you use Rollei films, they remain flat. I love IR400 for infrared shooting, but also for normal black-and-white shooting, even though it is a little expensive.

Have fun, I like to watch Youtube fail videos as I am developing my film,

Thanks for the reply!

My local shop doesn't sell the light tight bottles so I'm thinking that I'll just order 3 or 4 off of B&H. I'll be buying a Paterson two-reel tank, along with some chems. I haven't really decided on whether or not I'm going for Ilford or Kodak chemicals (they have both). I have it in my mind that I don't really need a dark bag but I might just get one anyway.

 

[sreed2006]

Brain dump:

I use Rubbermaid 1L bottles from the grocery store for my chemicals. They have large lids, with snap covers for the spouts. Get a good Sharpie. On the Developer bottle AND its cap, write (1) Dev. On the Stop bottle AND its cap, write (2) Stop. On the Fixer bottle AND its cap, write (3) Fix. Lastly, on the Photoflow bottle AND its cap, write (4) Final. Use distilled water for the Dev, Stop, Fix, and Photoflow. Unless your tap water is really bad, use tap water for rinse. I use a large kitty litter box, and put all the bottles in there, on the kitchen counter next to the sink, then add water/ice until the level of the water is high enough to match the chemicals in the bottles. Let everything come to the same temperature (20 C). You'll want a darkroom thermometer (waterproof), a can opener that works with the film canisters, and scissors to cut the film. For rinsing, I use the Ilford method for rinse, which is: fill the tank with water, invert 5 times, empty, fill again, invert 10 times, empty, fill again, invert 20 times, empty, and the rinse is done. Use the Digitaltruth Massive Dev Chart's phone app to time all the steps. Have some good clips to hang the negatives, and string a line somewhere that there is not a lot of air circulation or dust, high enough up so the film doesn't touch the floor. Get some PrintFile negative sleeves.

Now, to answer the question about the changing bag: I use one since I don't have any dark room. If you get the kind that lays flat, then find a box small enough to fit inside the changing bag. Put it in the bag with the opening facing you. Set the tanks in the box. That keeps the changing bag's top fabric from getting in the way and makes it a whole lot easier.

Have fun!

 

[Bill Clark]

I use empty soda bottles, 1 & 2 liter to store my developer. The bottles easily rinse all the soda out and the plastic tte bottles are made of don't react with the developer. The cap has been designed to seal the bottle completely over and over again and again.

I also use the mt soda bottles for stop bath.

Fixer I use something elee.

The soda bottles work great. I have 2 year old stock D-76 store in mt 2 liter soda bottles and it still works just fine.

 

[jamin-b]

I use syringes for measuring rodinal or hc 110 in small quantities. Where I live I can get them in 1,5 and 10cc varieties for pennies at the pharmacy.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

[jim_jm]

A drying agent is necessary to prevent spots on your negatives, a couple drops of dish washing liquid will work in a pinch, but make sure not to get it bubbly, dried bubbles on your negatives is not good.

Please DO NOT use dishwashing liquid as a wetting agent! Most commercial brands contain perfumes and other chemicals which will leave residue on your film. Proper wetting agent like Photo-flo is very cheap, and one bottle of concentrate will last for years. I've been processing and printing my own film for over 40 years, and this is a step where you do not want to skimp. Mix your wetting agent (a few drops only) in distilled water, not tap water or "purified drinking" water, and submerge the film for about 30 secs before hanging to dry. No need to squeegee or wipe the film at all. Hang the film in a draft-free area like the shower and don't disturb it for a few hours. You want to kick up as little dust as possible until the emulsion is sufficiently dry.

 

[maddoc]

If using plastic reels then don`t drop the film still on the reels into the wetting agent but pour the water containing wetting agent into a large enough plastic container and then put only the film strip into the wetting agent solution. The reason is that wetting agent very easily builds up a film on the surface of plastic reels, which makes loading the reels more and more difficult with time.

 

[FujiLove]

If using plastic reels then don`t drop the film still on the reels into the wetting agent but pour the water containing wetting agent into a large enough plastic container and then put only the film strip into the wetting agent solution. The reason is that wetting agent very easily builds up a film on the surface of plastic reels, which makes loading the reels more and more difficult with time.

This is a great tip and will save you hours of frustration trying to load film onto plastic reels. I'd also recommend avoiding changing bags. I've used one for years and finally given up the damn thing. They quickly become humid inside, and the moisture transfers to the reels and makes them difficult to load. Instead, load the reels in a completely dark room. If you're having trouble cutting all the light out, load the reels at night and leave them in the tank to process the following day.

 

[Joao]

Please DO NOT use dishwashing liquid as a wetting agent! Most commercial brands contain perfumes and other chemicals which will leave residue on your film. Proper wetting agent like Photo-flo is very cheap, and one bottle of concentrate will last for years. I've been processing and printing my own film for over 40 years, and this is a step where you do not want to skimp. ...

Not my experience, I never found any difference between dishwashing liquids (3 drops in 250 cc of water) and Ilford's wetting agent. I must say that I don't print negatives so maybe there a difference can be found...

Regards

Joao

 

[roscoetuff]

Listening to "Art of Photography" podcast with Ted Forbes, he's raving about Stand Development, minimalist darkroom, Rodinal... and a whole slew of things. With his experience, I suppose he's comfortable and what seems easy to him... I'm not as comfortable will seem easy to a beginner (like me). Curious what's the EASIEST, most FOOL PROOF ('cause I'm the dang fool who can bust the fool proof wide open) way of chemistry to follow... from film to development? OP didn't ask this per se, but perhaps he's wondering as much as I am?

 

[Ko.Fe.]

Listening to "Art of Photography" podcast with Ted Forbes, he's raving about Stand Development, minimalist darkroom, Rodinal... and a whole slew of things. With his experience, I suppose he's comfortable and what seems easy to him... I'm not as comfortable will seem easy to a beginner (like me). Curious what's the EASIEST, most FOOL PROOF ('cause I'm the dang fool who can bust the fool proof wide open) way of chemistry to follow... from film to development? OP didn't ask this per se, but perhaps he's wondering as much as I am?

Rodinal is fancy, cool and very podcastish. But Kodak HC-110 just gets job done clean and easy. I develop ALL film in B dilution. It is boring and very consistent procedure.