Spleenrippa
Yes, Right There
I disposed of my last bit of fixer last night, so I went to mix a new bottle and saw that the Kodafix label has different dilutions for film and paper. It is also recommended that one does not use the same batch for fixing both.
I had been using the same 1 liter of solution (at 1:3 for film) for both film and paper and had not noticed any ill effects.
Do I really need two working solutions? Did I just get lucky? Will I notice a difference with my prints or film?
I had been using the same 1 liter of solution (at 1:3 for film) for both film and paper and had not noticed any ill effects.
Do I really need two working solutions? Did I just get lucky? Will I notice a difference with my prints or film?
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
I use two batches...actually just one but really two...
I have a one gallon bottle of Fixer for developing negs only...
When I "Print" I mix a fresh liter just for that and then dispose of it when finished...
I have seen Fixer get (for a lack of a better word) linty from the fiber based paper I use and I wouldn't want that getting back to my negs...so I use separate Fixers...
My neg Fixer is mixed from powder form to make one gallon...
My Fixer for Printing is mixed from liquid concentrate...
And that's the way I do it...
I have a one gallon bottle of Fixer for developing negs only...
When I "Print" I mix a fresh liter just for that and then dispose of it when finished...
I have seen Fixer get (for a lack of a better word) linty from the fiber based paper I use and I wouldn't want that getting back to my negs...so I use separate Fixers...
My neg Fixer is mixed from powder form to make one gallon...
My Fixer for Printing is mixed from liquid concentrate...
And that's the way I do it...
Last edited:
Benjamin Marks
Veteran
It is not a huge deal, but may have some effect on the permanence of your photographs. The film won't care, unless you have over-used the fixer; then the fixer won't be able to do its job.
The purpose of the fixer is to convert unexposed silver salts in the paper or film into compounds that are water soluble and can be washed away. BUT with fiber based paper (the nice stuff -- I have a bias against resin-coated papers) the fibers also absorb and bond with the fixer and it can be difficult to wash away. With film it doesn't matter so much, because the film base (polyester) is not absorbent. So you want the paper you are fixing to be in the fixer the minimum amount of time to adequately convert your unexposed silver. In other words, you want to fix your prints "just enough." More is not better.
I suppose it is possible that if the fixer is too strong, and you fixed for too long you could also degrade the image-forming silver, but I've never heard anyone complain about that.
So: Using fixer at the higher concentration should not be that big a deal, but if you are fixing at that concentration for an amount of time meant for the lower concentration, it may be harder to wash.
BTW, if you are mixing fresh fixer for each processing session, it will also not be that big a deal. If you use fixer over and over, eventually it will become exhausted (that is, it will contain too much silver from your prints and film for it to work).
Hope this helps.
Ben
P.S. Fixer is a pretty expensive component of the developing process. Using it at high concentration will cost more.
The purpose of the fixer is to convert unexposed silver salts in the paper or film into compounds that are water soluble and can be washed away. BUT with fiber based paper (the nice stuff -- I have a bias against resin-coated papers) the fibers also absorb and bond with the fixer and it can be difficult to wash away. With film it doesn't matter so much, because the film base (polyester) is not absorbent. So you want the paper you are fixing to be in the fixer the minimum amount of time to adequately convert your unexposed silver. In other words, you want to fix your prints "just enough." More is not better.
I suppose it is possible that if the fixer is too strong, and you fixed for too long you could also degrade the image-forming silver, but I've never heard anyone complain about that.
So: Using fixer at the higher concentration should not be that big a deal, but if you are fixing at that concentration for an amount of time meant for the lower concentration, it may be harder to wash.
BTW, if you are mixing fresh fixer for each processing session, it will also not be that big a deal. If you use fixer over and over, eventually it will become exhausted (that is, it will contain too much silver from your prints and film for it to work).
Hope this helps.
Ben
P.S. Fixer is a pretty expensive component of the developing process. Using it at high concentration will cost more.
d_ross
Registered User
If your making archival prints, its good to keep in mind that over fixing reduces the archival life of a fibre based print.
Freakscene
Obscure member
If your prints and film are fully fixed and properly washed it won't matter. Fixer for film can have more silver in it and still fix to standards suitable for good permanence (~6g/L) while paper fixer needs to have less silver in it for the prints to last well (~2-3g/L, especially for fibre base paper).
It's hard to keep track of this when you mix film and paper unless you measure the silver content or are very conservative with your fixer use before disposal.
Marty
It's hard to keep track of this when you mix film and paper unless you measure the silver content or are very conservative with your fixer use before disposal.
Marty
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Film fixer should NEVER be used for prints. The fixing by-products from film will absorb into paper and are near impossible to wash out. Your prints will not be archival.
Spleenrippa
Yes, Right There
Thanks so much, guys. RFF to the rescue again!
I've only been wet printing for a few weeks, so at this point I'm not really concerned about archival quality. I'm happy enough to get something that doesn't hurt my eyes to look at.
However, based on what has been said, I will start using separate batches of fixer for my film and paper work. Better to get into the habit early!
I've only been wet printing for a few weeks, so at this point I'm not really concerned about archival quality. I'm happy enough to get something that doesn't hurt my eyes to look at.
However, based on what has been said, I will start using separate batches of fixer for my film and paper work. Better to get into the habit early!
nikon_sam
Shooter of Film...
Freakscene
Obscure member
The fixation by-products of film and paper are sufficiently similar that the differences are negligible. The problem is that film fixer is still okay and fixes to standards of good permanence at a higher concentration of dissolved silver (6 g/L) and other fixation by-products than paper fixer (should be no more than 2-3 g/L) and at this concentration they are harder to wash out of paper.
Marty
Marty
Tom A
RFF Sponsor
The problem with using the same fixer for film and paper, apart from what has already been said - is that with fiber paper you get a lot of small pieces of paper fiber in it - and those will search out nice, smooth gray areas on the films and stick there!!!!! Been there - done that - never will do it again!