SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I've heard and read so many things about Agfa film being great I leaped at the chance of getting this one (besides, I don't want to deal with Kodak's stuff for a while; it's hard to fix to me). Now, the only developer I'm using now is D-76. Anyone souped up this Agfa film in the Kodak chemistry? Is that a good idea?
As of today, my developing experience is limited to Ilford FP4 (never a bad turn), Kodak T-Max 400 (I had to fix this one for a looooong time, even though my fixer had been used only twice) and Gekko/Maco ISO 100 (so far, good for fun shooting).
BTW, I ran a search here and in Pnet. The consensus seems that this film shouldn't be ran by Rodinal, but then, I got a newer formula that supposedly works with D-76 in a 6-minute period with regular agitations.
Thanks in advance for your replies about this film!
As of today, my developing experience is limited to Ilford FP4 (never a bad turn), Kodak T-Max 400 (I had to fix this one for a looooong time, even though my fixer had been used only twice) and Gekko/Maco ISO 100 (so far, good for fun shooting).
BTW, I ran a search here and in Pnet. The consensus seems that this film shouldn't be ran by Rodinal, but then, I got a newer formula that supposedly works with D-76 in a 6-minute period with regular agitations.
Thanks in advance for your replies about this film!
markinlondon
Elmar user
Ilford say 10mins at 20c for APX400 in ID-11 stock. As ID-11 = D76 and 10 minutes is a good ballpark for ISO400 films this sounds about right.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
10 minutes sounds reasonable. Thanks for your tip, Mark! I had a big printout from www.digitaltruth.com but the entry about this film is marked with an asterisk, indicating there were changes in the film and that the times may not be reliable.
Once I get it, I'll try it and let you know. BTW, how's the 12585 doing?
Once I get it, I'll try it and let you know. BTW, how's the 12585 doing?
phototone
Well-known
I have never had to fix b/w film for more than 5 minutes. I use Kodak Rapid-fixer w/hardener. Works well with everything.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Hmmm... I may have to change fixer. I have one that comes in a yellow pouch, like the D-76, and it says "Professional Fixer."
Maybe professionals have a lot of time to fix.
Maybe professionals have a lot of time to fix.
markinlondon
Elmar user
SolaresLarrave said:10 minutes sounds reasonable. Thanks for your tip, Mark! I had a big printout from www.digitaltruth.com but the entry about this film is marked with an asterisk, indicating there were changes in the film and that the times may not be reliable.
Once I get it, I'll try it and let you know. BTW, how's the 12585 doing?![]()
The 12585 is lovely, thanks for asking. I bought a thin Tele-Elmarit and now my "serious shooting" (who am I kidding?) kit is M6TTL, 35 'cron, 90 TE and the 12585. This is extremely compact, I don't even need a bag.
I've always though digitaltruth was ill-named as most of the info's about analogue matters and truth on the interweb is a variable thing. For instance a few weeks back we had a discussion about fixing. Guess what I did the very next day? Yep, underfixed a roll of HP5 by trying to eke out the last roll from a batch I should have tossed. See, never trust an on-line "expert"
peterc
Heretic
A few times from the Agfa datasheet for APX400 in D76 (all 68F, agitation for first 10 seconds, then 5 seconds every 30 seconds).
Stock 10 minutes.
1:1 14 minutes.
Peter
Stock 10 minutes.
1:1 14 minutes.
Peter
3js
Established
SolaresLarrave said:BTW, I ran a search here and in Pnet. The consensus seems that this film shouldn't be ran by Rodinal,
No no no, this is totally wrong, do it in Rodinal, 1+50 at 20c 13 minutes, and behold! Apx 400 is a perfect mach with Rodinal. Well if you are able to find them...
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/Arista-II_400_Data_Panel.pdf
Here is the data sheet for Artista II 400 which is APX 400 from Freestyle Photo.
I have only processed APX 400 with Diafine, with good results.
Here is the data sheet for Artista II 400 which is APX 400 from Freestyle Photo.
I have only processed APX 400 with Diafine, with good results.
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Thanks a lot, folks! I'll let you know how things turn out.
Mark... so, the hood fits a TE as well as the 'cron? That's news to me. But then, the IROOA I bought fits a lot of lenses ('crons and Summarons).
Take care all of you. I'm in the loose with an unmetered M3... and not a meter on hand!
Yes, I'm guessing my exposures. Talk to you later about it!
Mark... so, the hood fits a TE as well as the 'cron? That's news to me. But then, the IROOA I bought fits a lot of lenses ('crons and Summarons).
Take care all of you. I'm in the loose with an unmetered M3... and not a meter on hand!
Yes, I'm guessing my exposures. Talk to you later about it!
peterc
Heretic
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
Thanks a lot, Peter! 
RayPA
Ignore It (It'll go away)
mr_phillip
Well-known
For what it's worth, I like APX400 best rated at 200ASA and developed in Rodinal 1+100 for 16 minutes (this is the latest version of APX400 I'm talking about). I don't know where you're based, but here in the UK Rodinal is dead easy to get hold of, dirt cheap and lasts forever.
That said, I've had good results with APX at 400ASA in HC-110, so you should get nice results in D76 too.
That said, I've had good results with APX at 400ASA in HC-110, so you should get nice results in D76 too.
Share:
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.