dave lackey
Veteran
Whilst sitting here contemplating my D2x and F5 for the neighborhood fireworks tonight, it occurred to me that some people actually use color film in their Nikon RFs....
Has anyone used their RF for fireworks or are they planning on using them tonight for the 4th of July?
Has anyone used their RF for fireworks or are they planning on using them tonight for the 4th of July?
VinceC
Veteran
I didn't do anything serious with it. Found myself out in the eveing with the SP and 28/3.5 and used it to take a few photos. No prior planning, so I held it tilted on the ground for some 1-second exposures, then handheld at 1/30 for some exposures of the finale.
yoyo22
Well-known
I tried it once - a couple of 10-15 seconds shots with a bessa r2m and the 2/50 Heliar. I had to press the camera on a stone, where it got it's first scratches (I got it new the other day). It was actually my first roll of film with a rangefinder.
It's not too nice, but I included it anyways.
It's not too nice, but I included it anyways.
Attachments
dave lackey
Veteran
Very nice! It seems to me that this is one of those opportunities just made for a RF! What film and settings did you use?
SolaresLarrave
My M5s need red dots!
I've used Portra 160 VC for fireworks. With the camera on a tripod, I set the aperture at f16 (in my 28/f2.8, at f22), and then trip the shutter and keep it open for about 10 seconds.
I never scanned those negatives, but they turned out decent. However, it's too stressful, so I never did it again.
I never scanned those negatives, but they turned out decent. However, it's too stressful, so I never did it again.
dave lackey
Veteran
Hmmm...I tried my F5 with Fuji 400 Superia Film at F16 and, I suppose, half of the prints from our neighbors fireworks came out okay but I was a bit disappointed even though the F5 was on a tripod but no cable release.
Wonder if I should have varied the aperture and zoomed in a bit more? I forgot to scan those negs and won't bother now... but I tried my D2x after that roll and got some keepers at ISO 100 and F5.6. Did not try my S3 2000 since I had an unfinished roll of Tri-X loaded.
Wonder if I should have varied the aperture and zoomed in a bit more? I forgot to scan those negs and won't bother now... but I tried my D2x after that roll and got some keepers at ISO 100 and F5.6. Did not try my S3 2000 since I had an unfinished roll of Tri-X loaded.
rbsinto
Well-known
Dave,
All I use in my S3's ( I finally got the second one I bought months ago) is colour slide film.
As for the partially used roll of Tri-X in your camera, it's very easy to remove with the leader out of the cassette. First note the number of frames exposed. Set the A-R dial to R, and slowly rewind the film until you hear a "click", which will be the leader slipping off the take-up spool. Stop rewinding, and remove the roll. At this point, I'd write "x exposed. Start X+2" on the saved end of the film box, wrap it around the roll and secure it with a rubber band. To continue using that same roll, load it into the camera, and with the lens or body capped, advance the film by cocking the shutter and firing until you are two frames past where you stopped shooting originally. When you have the roll processed, if it is slide, ask the lab to visually inspect it while cutting because the registration will likely be off.
As for shooting fireworks, I was taught to set the aperature to about 5.6 or f8, as I recall, shutter on B and place a dark hat over the lens, and simply remove the hat when you see the burst, and re-cover it when the burst dissapates.
All I use in my S3's ( I finally got the second one I bought months ago) is colour slide film.
As for the partially used roll of Tri-X in your camera, it's very easy to remove with the leader out of the cassette. First note the number of frames exposed. Set the A-R dial to R, and slowly rewind the film until you hear a "click", which will be the leader slipping off the take-up spool. Stop rewinding, and remove the roll. At this point, I'd write "x exposed. Start X+2" on the saved end of the film box, wrap it around the roll and secure it with a rubber band. To continue using that same roll, load it into the camera, and with the lens or body capped, advance the film by cocking the shutter and firing until you are two frames past where you stopped shooting originally. When you have the roll processed, if it is slide, ask the lab to visually inspect it while cutting because the registration will likely be off.
As for shooting fireworks, I was taught to set the aperature to about 5.6 or f8, as I recall, shutter on B and place a dark hat over the lens, and simply remove the hat when you see the burst, and re-cover it when the burst dissapates.