Anyone shooting Cinestill?

Vics

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I've seen many beautiful pictures shot at night or indoors with this film, but not much in daylight with the 85B filter. Please share your experiences with this re-branded Kodak Vision3 500T movie film.
 
I have a couple in my fridge but have yet to try them. They're coming out with a daylight ISO50 film though
 
I'm old enough to remember when lots of pros shot tungsten all the time, filtering when they shot flash or daylight. I'm intrigued to give this a try in one dedicated camera.
 
I've shot a few rolls in the last year or so...I buy it from FreeStyle. It is great for night, low light, and indoor work. I have some proper filters for daylight but don't have much daylight examples.

I mostly use it for signs, lights, and neon at night.

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Could this Kodak Vision3 500T be developed at any C41 lab?

Cinestill can be developed at any C41 lab, because the Remjet backing is removed.

Regular Kodak 500T (5219) cannot, because of the Remjet. However, it's very easy to remove yourself after home processing (which itself is very easy).
 

Davi
Manhattan Beach, Los Angeles County,California

This is my first roll of CineStill 800 and I like the way it looks. For this shot my sister Davi and I were sitting at the Thanksgiving dinner table under tungsten lights.

Shot with the lens wide open at f/1.8 in PH mode.

camera: Nikon F4 SLR
lens: AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D
film: CineStill 800Tungsten @ ISO 800
filter: Sunpak UV
support: hand held
scan: PCV
software: ACDSee Pro 7 (64 bit)

©2014 Chris Grossman, all rights reserved
 
Hello

I shoot vision 250D ( daylight balanced )
see pic below:

There is not much point using the 500T with
correction for daylight use as you loose nearly
a whole stop.

It is way cheaper to buy a 400ft roll and spool
your own.

Also Fuji Eterna Vivid 250D and 160T are amazing.
These Cine films are pretty much state of the art
for film neg.

U11568I1424903740.SEQ.1.jpg


-TC
 
I'm old enough to remember when lots of pros shot tungsten all the time, filtering when they shot flash or daylight.

It always was the regular way to go in the motion picture industry, where exposure times inherently are quite close to the (1/25s) frame rate.

In photography, I have only ever heard of it from large format landscape and architecture photographers (whose exposure times implicitly were in the suitable range.). Tungsten film was tuned to long time exposures, and had poor reciprocity behaviour when shot at short times. For any type of handheld/small camera work with tungsten film, you were either stuck with exposure times that were not immune to camera shake, or you had to wrestle with correction filters to deal with the significant colour shifts that happened upward of 1/125s (or flash).
 
When I was shooting a lot of architectural 4x5 chromes, I standardized on Fuji 50 with the 85B filter. I preferred the results and I think they reproduced in print in an improved way over the higher contrast daylight films. Used daylight film when I wanted that saturated "punch".

I would like to try some of this film stock. How do you get rid of the remjet backing?
 
I have shot the cinestill in daylight both with and without filters. I have no reason from the results to shoot with the filter. Digital correction, and mine were all straight from the lab no further correction, seems to even out the results.

This one was shot with no filter using the white wall as test, no issues:

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This one in daylight, although dull, so the speed was useful, no filter:

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This in a shopping arcade with diffuse daylight as main source and tungsten lamps in shot, no filter. (Shooting the shooter!!)

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Really like it, but my local lab won't develop it! Their loss because Im shooting it.

The 800T, 85B filtered and rated at 400ASA yields soft color especially suitable for natural light portraits of women and children. There are lots of examples on Flickr CineStill pool.

I hope both 50D and 800T eventually become available in 120, but especially the super fine grained 50D.

Texsport
 
I picked up a couple rolls a while back and just recently tried it. Here are a few from that first shoot. More in the "signage" thread. It behaves quite differently than the Fuji I'm used to shooting in low light.

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