Anyone use a cooling filter with Ektar 100?

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Pirate

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I've seen most of my Ektar 100 shots coming out with just a hint of too much red, and I've read this is normal for Kodak films of most types.

Before I try this myself, I'd just like to ask here first - has anyone experienced the extra Red in Ektar 100 film and used a blue color correction filter to bring it down?
 
I have a colour correction set with the lightest blue being a 1.5 so that's what I would use.
 
Mine came out with a coolness to them. I guess this a problem with how individual labs process them. It always has been an issue which is why I started shooting E6 slide film some years ago. Print would now be more convenient for me so it's time to check out different labs.

Steve.
 
I always thought C41 was more simple and set than the E6 process? I thought you get more consistent development with C41.
 
I am wondering whether all this comments on the Ektar 100 coming out too blue, red or green have more to do with the developments than exposure.

If there are any C41 experts around - is this film more sensitive to correct development that other color C41 films?
 
I'd like to hear from the more knowledgeable ones too. I've always read that Kodak films come out more Red and Fuji comes out more Blue. This is the look I've always gotten so I figured they were right. It's really pretty hard to mess up C41 developing, so we should all have pretty close results, I would think.
 
I don't know about development, but I know it's *very* sensitive to exposure.

See Roger's article.

I've had a couple of rolls store-developed and I now know to definitely use a meter. They're almost as sensitive as slides to incorrect exposure, the colours change drastically.

It may not be your process.
 
Variations in scanning and/or printing, combined with colour variation with exposure, can explain all the variations described above. From http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/reviews kodak ektar 100.html

Ektar 100 is an odd film. It's incredibly rewarding if you use it properly, and quite close to a disaster if you don't. Think of it as a negative film with the latitude of slide film, and it's rewarding: depending on exposure, you can choose anything from soft, pastel colours (minimum exposure) to rich, saturated colours. Think of it as the sort of negative film that you can overexpose mercilessly, and it's close enough to a disaster, because those rich and saturated colours turn garish and improbable, with something of a magenta or purple bias.

I really wouldn't bother with a cooling filter.

Cheers,

R.
 
Last edited:
Matus said:
I am wondering whether all this comments on the Ektar 100 coming out too blue, red or green have more to do with the developments than exposure.

If there are any C41 experts around - is this film more sensitive to correct development that other color C41 films?
Click to expand...

I personally believe it's the way individual labs set themselves up. I treat my exposures on print film as serious as slides and can't remember the last time I had an incorrectly exposed slide.
Labs just seem to "bang 'em through" with print film. We all take our time to choose the emulsion and handle with care on the exposure then they go through the same machine that the snap- happy brigade use.
Some years ago I remember being told along the lines of "drop your films in on a Monday as the chemistry will be fresh". That could of course go the extreme opposite. Don't know how true it is.

Steve.
 
I shot 3 rolls of Ektar 100 and I have to say it's been hit or miss. Some shots were just crisp and spot on and others were oversaturated with kind of crappy tonal range. I'm sure part of it is exposure, becuase the hit's and misses were on the same roll and I sent the roll in to a reputable lab. I should scan some examples.

btw, my shots tended towards cooler.
 
Unless you're wet printing I wouldn't use color correcting filters with any negative film. It's much easier to apply filters to a scan. If you're using a lab for prints it's most likely they are scanning the film, not wet printing, so I would just ask them if they could adjust your film accordingly.
Besides, if your film has a red cast you need a green correction filter not a blue one. Blue filters are used to counteract yellow.
 
I'm doing all my own developing and scanning but I've been getting consistent results with Ektar 100. I've not done any printing so I don't know about using a filter when printing, but that sounds like the best idea to me and I would love to do it that way.
 
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