Are You NOT Using Coded Lenses On Your M8, M8.2 ?

[murrayb53]

Having purchased an M8.2 a month ago I still am looking to purchase two lenses to complete an outfit, a 28mm and a 75mm. In the meantime I own a 35mm Zeiss Biogon and am considering sending it to DAG for conversion.

I was wondering how many of you who own an M8 or M8.2 are NOT using coded lenses and are just as happy as can be? No plans to change your inventory for a coded lens?

Steve

 

[ampguy]

no coding here, other than experimenting.

 

[johannielscom]

I used sixteen different lenses on my M8 until I sold it:

M-Hex 28mm
M-Hex 35mm
M-Hex 50mm 2.0
M-Hex 50mm 1.2
M-Hex 90mm
Komura 28mm 3.5
Kyoei Acall 35mm 3.5
Jupiter-3 & 8
Jupiter-11
Hacked Wollensak 50mm 2.8
Summicron 50mm 1st version
Elmar 90mm coll.
Summar 50mm
Canon 50mm 1.2
Kyoei Acall 135mm 3.5

Never coded any one of them, never had bad shots because of that. I was always me I had to blame when the shots were bad... 🙂

Cannot vouch for wide angles though, it seems there it might actually make a difference 😱 🙂

 

[Roger Hicks]

I think I have used maybe 3 coded lenses out of 30 (many of them borrowed, I hasten to add). Among my favourites are the 135/2.8 Elmarit, the 50/1.5 C-Sonnar, the 50/1 Noctilux and the 90/2.2 Thambar, all uncoded, and the 24/1.4 Summilux, coded.

Cheers,

R

 

[swoop]

Shooting in RAW makes coding pointless.

None of my lenses are coded.

 

[ashrafazlan]

Does the UV/IR cut filter affect anything else besides color? Those things are expensive, and i'm only interested in shooting B&W.

 

[victoriapio]

Does the UV/IR cut filter affect anything else besides color? Those things are expensive, and i'm only interested in shooting B&W.

No the filter doesn't do anything else but there is a lot of black fabric out there looks purple under almost any light without it. The new breathable black clothing from Patagonia and others are especially susceptible to the IR shift. Get the filter if you can afford them and by the way, I use the B+W versions and they work just fine.

 

[ashrafazlan]

Thanks, i'll get one as soon as I can, in the mean time I'll just stick to B&W

 

[robklurfield]

coded: 28 elmarit, cv 15/4.5, canon 50/1.2
not coded: canon 35/2, 90/4 elmar, j8

when shooting with the non-coded lenses, I simply ask people to undress. works like a charm.

 

[Jason Sprenger]

I have only one coded lens, a Leica 28/2.8 aspherical. My 35's, 50's and and 90's are not coded and I haven't felt it necessary.

I also don't use a 28 very often, I find I use my 35's just like I do with film even though the FOV is smaller.

 

[Ben Z]

Shooting in RAW makes coding pointless.

That's not quite correct. Using the IR filters on lenses wider than 35mm causes some greenish corners (cyan) and if the lens is coded the camera will correct that, even when shooting .dng's. Personally I find enough cyan vignetting even with 35mm that I have coded all my 35mm and shorter lenses. Those longer than 35mm I have not coded. My M8 has been set to "UV/IR-ON" since day one and I have not seen any harm from leaving it that way even with uncoded lenses. However on a couple of my 80's-era lenses I had to white-paint the flange screw that rests opposite the code reader, otherwise the M8 thinks it's a 90mm lens.

 

[ampguy]

I use a lot of 28s

I use a lot of 28s

with no greenish corners.

There is an option in the menu to turn lens detection off.

The issue is that cyan or vignetting correction can never be just right, because aperture detection cannot be accurately determined.

Recommend you subscribe and read the Reid reviews articles on this issue, and if you like, go ahead and code and turn lens detection on, but also be prepared to have to post process and undo the over-corrections that will happen.

The M9 will be better, it will error on the conservative side, since during M9 development they realized aperture guessing was not possible.

That's not quite correct. Using the IR filters on lenses wider than 35mm causes some greenish corners (cyan) and if the lens is coded the camera will correct that, even when shooting .dng's. Personally I find enough cyan vignetting even with 35mm that I have coded all my 35mm and shorter lenses. Those longer than 35mm I have not coded. My M8 has been set to "UV/IR-ON" since day one and I have not seen any harm from leaving it that way even with uncoded lenses. However on a couple of my 80's-era lenses I had to white-paint the flange screw that rests opposite the code reader, otherwise the M8 thinks it's a 90mm lens.

 

[Tom Niblick]

My 21 Biogon is coded but my 35 Summicron, 35 Color Skopar, and 90 Elmarit are not coded.

I've never noticed any problems with the 35s or the 90. Of course, I don't shoot white walls very often so a slight cyan tint in the corners would go unnoticed.

Opps, I just looked over a few hundred 35 Summicron shots and I found a touch of blue in the corner of two shots. The photos are of white sails in overcast daylight and they might have about 2 or 3 percent more cyan in the extreme corners... but you have to look hard to see the shift. Here's one that has a slight shift in the upper left corner.

Tom

 

[Vince Lupo]

So goofball question here - what happens if you don't use coded lenses? And what if you use a lens that's so old that it couldn't be converted, like a 105/6.3 Mountain Elmar or a 50/1.5 Xenon?

Roger, I'd be interested to see some results from your Thambar!

 

[nksyoon]

I've noticed green corners a few times with an uncoded Ultron 28/1.9 and B+W 486 filter, but it depends on the scene. No problems with uncoded 35 and longer.

 

[JPSuisse]

I'm using:

50 Lux ASPH Coded w/Filter
35 Cron ASPH Coded w/Filter
28 Cron ASPH Coded w/Filter
21 Biogon Uncoded w/out Filter

No problems with the 21 Biogon at all. It's a great lens!! And I haven't had any "disturbing" purple effects yet either... I can't really tell a difference using filters. At least the filters on the 50 and the 35 don't disturb film. But, the filter on the 28 causes nasty vignetting on film.

Now, the question that I have is that what if I use the 21 Biogon without coding but with Filter? I haven't experimented with this yet and there is no option in the menu for it!

JP

 

[Imaji]

I'm using a coded 35 summicron and uncoded CV 50 f2 Heliar. No issues with the uncoded heliar at all.

 

[Ming Rider]

Quote "Are You NOT Using Coded Lenses On Your M8, M8.2 ?"

No

 

[ampguy]

I would turn off lens detection for the 21

I would turn off lens detection for the 21

even when you do need a UV/IR filter for color work with the magenta issues.

Depending on your non Leica 21, it may be possible to experiment, but first it would need to bring up the same framelines as the equivalent Leica lens, so either newer Zeiss 21?? or modified mount by John Millich or sending back to Zeiss.

I've only used CV 15s and 21s, they work great on the M8 with and without UV/IR filters, on the lens detection off setting. I have used the 15 with lens detection on as a WATE while experimenting, but reverted to lens detection off.

I'm using:

50 Lux ASPH Coded w/Filter
35 Cron ASPH Coded w/Filter
28 Cron ASPH Coded w/Filter
21 Biogon Uncoded w/out Filter

No problems with the 21 Biogon at all. It's a great lens!! And I haven't had any "disturbing" purple effects yet either... I can't really tell a difference using filters. At least the filters on the 50 and the 35 don't disturb film. But, the filter on the 28 causes nasty vignetting on film.

Now, the question that I have is that what if I use the 21 Biogon without coding but with Filter? I haven't experimented with this yet and there is no option in the menu for it!

JP

 

[larryk34]

Never have; never had any problem. I saw all the tests done by Reid's review, but I never could produce any of the effects he was eliminating with the coding. 24mm Asph, 35mm lux asph, 50mm pre-asph lux, and 75mm lux. No problem with any. Blues skies, white skies, white walls, I just couldn't make it happen. So, my advice is to take pictures without coding and keep going until you encounter a problem. Why solve a problem you may never have?