Best catch-all developer for (rare) home use over long time

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tofagerl

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So, I've been using Fomapan with Fomapans R09, which is fine, but I'm having problems finding formulas that match for instance T-Max P3200 @1600 with R09.
So I'm considering getting a second developer, or possibly replacing the R09 completely.

I see D76 getting fantastic reviews, but the powder mix doesn't quite go well with rare usage as far as I understand.

In general, I'm pretty new at this, but cheap is good; easier is far better! Mixing is not a problem, but I'd like to be able to either store the finished mix or just mix about 300ml at once. (One 135 film in my Paterson tank.)
 
I've been developing my own only for a few months, but from my research Diafine is one of your best choices for longevity and multiple uses. I find it ideal for my purposes most of the time. The only "downside" is that it naturally push-processes the film, so you have to shoot at EI 2x your box speed for most emulsions (sometimes I want to shoot my low-speed films at box speed, so that can be a problem).

I've also been using Rodinal/Adonal, which you mix for each use, and then dump. It's liquid, so a quick mix-up. I've been using it at 1:25 and 1:100, so I think my bottle will last me forever. Seems like I've heard that unmixed Rodinal has long shelf life (I hope so, anyway :)).

Not sure about these devs with your preferred film(s), however.
 
I use Ilford ID-11, have for decades. Same as Kodak D-76. Shelf life is given as 6 months. However a year is closer to reality for a bottle that is full. I mix up a gallon, put it in quart bottles and use it diluted 1:1 for a variety of films. When I was young I chased the dog's tail using all the exotic developers like microdol, diafine, rodinal, etc. While each developer might have an edge with one type of film good old fashioned D76/ID-11 delivers consistent results with all B&W films per the published times.
 
Xtol 1:3 works for me. Fomapan 200, HP5+, Tmax 100, Tmax 400, Plus-X.
On my "To Do" list: Pyrocat-HD or Pyrocat-MC as a two bath delevoper. There are people who mix films in the same tank with the above developers. Like Diafine except the negatives look better. The glycol versions last a long time.
Real Rodinal is still the best long term storage-occasional use developer.
 
My understanding is that Rodinal (concentrate) can be stored for very long periods of time. I don't use it but maybe someone else can chime in.
 
Yup. Rodinallives forever. I have used stuff that was several years old (and had turned a rusty brown) on multiple occasions, and it always worked.

But then, maybe I have magic hands, because my Xtol is also already 15 months old and will be gone before it dies on me... :D
 
Sounds like using R09 for "normal" Fomapan films and D76 or Ilford D11 for "advanced" films like Kodak, Ilford and Fuji is the way to go.

Thanks everyone! :)
 
I use Rodinal for slow films (Plus-X, Double-X, Polypan-F), HC-110 for Tri-X and HP5+ and Diafine for pushing Tri-X and Double-X. All three keep almost indefinitely.
 
How abou Ilford LC-29? I think it's stable over time and good all-around developer. Some say it's similar to HC-110.
 
DD-X. VERY stable. I've used stuff from a quarter-full bottle that's a year old.

Rodinal lasts forever but gives poor speed and large grain (with high sharpness and tonality than many like).

Cheers,

R.
 
I am using Pyrocat HD mixing in glycol since about 2008. I am about half way through (2 x 0.5 l), as you use little with 1:1:100 in Jobo drums.

I also have a bottle of DD-X at home which I used with HP5+ (I got pinhole problems with Pyrocat HD - probably because of the fixer) which also seems to hold-up well.
 
I process film rarely, as well. I had been using ID-11/D-76 and storing the mixed developer in bottles, but the stuff went bad before my next dark(bath)room session. I'm now just buying the smallest packets and mixing enough for the rolls at hand. No more storage.
 
Beemermark said:
I use Ilford ID-11, have for decades. Same as Kodak D-76. Shelf life is given as 6 months. However a year is closer to reality for a bottle that is full. I mix up a gallon, put it in quart bottles and use it diluted 1:1 for a variety of films. When I was young I chased the dog's tail using all the exotic developers like microdol, diafine, rodinal, etc. While each developer might have an edge with one type of film good old fashioned D76/ID-11 delivers consistent results with all B&W films per the published times.
Click to expand...

+1

I'm a big fan of ID-11, 1+1 as a general purpose developer.

But lately I've been using Diafine with Fuji Arcos, Pan F, HP5, TXP and Tri-X because of economy, after using ID-11, 1+1 in a 2 liter tank. I just got tired of mixing ID-11 ten liters at a time because I shoot a lot.

It didn't take long for the Diafine to get well seasoned and film processed now has a richer/broader/smoother midrange after 30-40 rolls, and since the developer gets reused IMHO it actually gets better through use.

Processing mixed rolls of different films at different speeds in the same tank allows me to shoot even more, and the time in the tank is shorter than with ID-11.

Word of warning about Diafine is the profound compensating effect: not the best for low contrast images because of contrast compression. Be aware that flat negatives can result, and that Diafine is the best for harsh lighting and extream contrast like in night photography. Kinda works for me for urban landscape and street shooting, but I live in NYC.

Yellow and orange filters are also a great way to boost the contrast while bringing the film speed back down to box speed. Try HP5 (800 ISO minus one stop for filter factor) with a yellow filter and Tri-X with an orange filter (1250 ISO minus 2 stops for filter factor). An alternative is shoot Plus X at 400 without a filter.

BTW I'm making negatives for wet printing.

Cal
 
Double Negative said:
HC-110 and Rodinal are great; excellent shelf life and you can mix up solution straight from the bottle (without the intermediate working solution or mixing up batches).
Click to expand...

+ 1

Rodinal for 100 iso film, HC-110 for 400 speed film
Both have really long shelf life, even after opening.

My issue with Diafine is that one can not influence development characteristics by purposefully altering time or agitation.
 
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Another vote for HC-110 and/or Rodinal. HC-110 is my standard 35mm developer, Rodinal for 120 film. It has been that way for almost ten years. My reasoning is the requirements of the OP yet with good quality negs.
 
I opened bottles of HC110, Rodinal and DDX early this year.

The Rodinal and HC110 are still fine but the DDX died on me. Granted, I was mixing on demand so maybe in concentrate form it doesn't last as long, but it definitely died the first.
 
Matus said:
I am using Pyrocat HD mixing in glycol since about 2008. I am about half way through (2 x 0.5 l), as you use little with 1:1:100 in Jobo drums.

I also have a bottle of DD-X at home which I used with HP5+ (I got pinhole problems with Pyrocat HD - probably because of the fixer) which also seems to hold-up well.
Click to expand...

Matus,
Give Pyrocat 2 bath a try with wide dynamic range scens. Maybe even try different films in the same tank. Here are details:

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=67154
 
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