Rhodes
Time Lord
Hallo,
Monday I wll depart in vacation and going to use a few rolls of apx 100 loaded from the bulk. Since it's a (hope so) sunny enviroment, I was thinking of going below iso 100, possibly 50.
Normally I use rodinal for this kind of film, and in devchart they have info of 1:50 at iso 50, etc.
Should I, if necessary, take at iso 50? Or should only go for the classical iso 100?
Also, at iso 50, is rodinal the best choise for that low iso?
PS: do not know if helps, but it's old agfa emulsion!
Monday I wll depart in vacation and going to use a few rolls of apx 100 loaded from the bulk. Since it's a (hope so) sunny enviroment, I was thinking of going below iso 100, possibly 50.
Normally I use rodinal for this kind of film, and in devchart they have info of 1:50 at iso 50, etc.
Should I, if necessary, take at iso 50? Or should only go for the classical iso 100?
Also, at iso 50, is rodinal the best choise for that low iso?
PS: do not know if helps, but it's old agfa emulsion!
ferider
Veteran
Rodinal 1:100, 20' (inversion every 3'), 64 ASA is what I use. Works very well.
mfogiel
Veteran
On a sunny day go to ISO 50, cloudy day, ISO 80 is OK, rodinal is good for tonality, but you can try other developers for higher acutance, finer grain or more speed. I actually like to shoot at EI 200 in bright sun, and push a bit in Rodinal, to get more grain and higher contrast - works surprisingly well:
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
There isn't such thing as a best development time for all kinds of light or for totally different contrast scenes...
That's the ISO100 film I've used the most for the last 10 years:
Rodinal 1+50 18ºC. 12 minutes for direct sun, 20 minutes for overcast or shadows.
Incident metering for soft light (overcast or shadows): ISO 50.
Incident metering for direct sun with yellow filter: ISO 12. Without filter, ISO 25.
With TTL in camera metering I use 100 for soft light and 50 for harsh light.
Cheers,
Juan
That's the ISO100 film I've used the most for the last 10 years:
Rodinal 1+50 18ºC. 12 minutes for direct sun, 20 minutes for overcast or shadows.
Incident metering for soft light (overcast or shadows): ISO 50.
Incident metering for direct sun with yellow filter: ISO 12. Without filter, ISO 25.
With TTL in camera metering I use 100 for soft light and 50 for harsh light.
Cheers,
Juan
J J Kapsberger
Well-known
Juan, do you have examples of APX 100 at ISO 50, 25 and 12?
Roger Hicks
Veteran
The best ISO is 100.
The best EI, as Juan says, varies. I'd back his soft light/harsh light EIs (100/50) as a very good ideal starting point for TTL.
Cheers,
R.
The best EI, as Juan says, varies. I'd back his soft light/harsh light EIs (100/50) as a very good ideal starting point for TTL.
Cheers,
R.
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
On a sunny day go to ISO 50, cloudy day, ISO 80 is OK, rodinal is good for tonality, but you can try other developers for higher acutance, finer grain or more speed. I actually like to shoot at EI 200 in bright sun, and push a bit in Rodinal, to get more grain and higher contrast - works surprisingly well:
Hi mfogiel,
APX100 in Rodinal (18ºC 1+50) produce the best results I know of... The grain, by the way, is almost invisible... Your image's grain looks digitally sharpened, or maybe the film was treated with a different dilution or temperature... Edit: now I read it was on purpose...
Cheers,
Juan
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Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Sure... I have no soft light scans at hand... Here's harsh light (well controlled...) at ISO 12 with yellow filter... Open skin in shadows... APX shines on direct sun.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40894234@N07/4930055835/
Cheers,
Juan
J J Kapsberger
Well-known
APX 100 at ISO 12. I'd never have thought of that. What development time do you use, the one you show above—Rodinal 1+50 18ºC. 12 minutes for direct sun?
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
Yes... 12 if metered incident... You include there a stop for the filter. and another one for filling the shadows...
Cheers,
Juan
Cheers,
Juan
titrisol
Bottom Feeder
APX used to be my standard film for years (Rollei Retro 100 is the latest name)
I used to expose it as 100 and developed it in D76, FG7, Rodinal, DDX, etc
Juan starting point is a very good one (overexpose 1 for soft light) and his developemnt time is on the spot. APX100 shines in Rodinal 1+50
I used to expose it as 100 and developed it in D76, FG7, Rodinal, DDX, etc
Juan starting point is a very good one (overexpose 1 for soft light) and his developemnt time is on the spot. APX100 shines in Rodinal 1+50
Mablo
Well-known
For very contrasty light I shoot it at 50ASA, Rodinal 1+50 for 9min or so. For more normal or softish light I shoot it at 100ASA in the same dilution for 13min.
Rhodes
Time Lord
Thank you for the answers! That iso 12 pics got my attention, would like to try it.
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
And you tell me those techniques just at the last box of my APX in 10box package??
ferider
Veteran
A yellow filter helps in the conditions you describe. With the above (post #2) recipe:
(on Rollei Retro 100 which is the same as APX 100).
(on Rollei Retro 100 which is the same as APX 100).
LeicaFoReVer
Addicted to Rangefinders
Juan, your examples are so nice. I have one box of APX left and I would like to try your method but there are things I dont understand.
What is incident meter? I use M6 built in meter. So shall I use at 50 iso?
and I dont have rodinal, will D-76 or ID-11 work?
thanks,