Mackinaw
Think Different
A lot of folks don't know that Fuji FP-100C peel-apart film gives you a negative as well as a print. Being instant film, you keep the print and throw the other stuff in the trash. This other stuff though, is the actual negative. Fuji puts a black backing on the negative that can be removed with common household bleach. Once the backing is gone, you have an actual 3" X 3.75" color negative. I followed a few YouTube videos on how to do remove the backing and came up with these negs. I'm pleasantly surprised as to how good they look. I'll be trying more tomorrow.
Jim B.
Jim B.
raid
Dad Photographer
Cool! Thanks for the post. I have seen a youtube video on such a process.
Huss
Veteran
Very cool and great shots!
wblynch
Well-known
I've done this with much success. I used 'gel' bleach which made it easy but don't get the bleach on the emulsion side as it will eat the emulsion off. I was too lazy to tape the edges. Next time I will tape them off.
Mackinaw
Think Different
We're smack dab in the middle of fall color season and everywhere you look you see colors. I took these test pics taken in our yard. Unfortunately, in another week, all these pretty leaves will be on our lawn. Then I have to rake them.
Jim B.
Jim B.
raid
Dad Photographer
Then, take photos of the leaves on the ground.
Mackinaw
Think Different
I’m starting to get the hang of scanning FP-100C negatives. I took this a few days back, bleached-off the black coating, and scanned the negative. Contrary to C-41 process color negatives, these negatives don’t have an orange mask. I found scanning difficult at first because of negative profile I was using (for C-41 film) threw the color way off. I discovered that the Silverfast scanning software I use has a color profile for Kodak Aerocolor film, which is a special aerial film that doesn’t have an orange mask. Scanning with that profile made the colors much more realistic.
This is still a novelty for me, but I do like the results. We’ll see where it leads.
Jim B.
This is still a novelty for me, but I do like the results. We’ll see where it leads.
Jim B.
Corran
Well-known
The only problem is the negative is usually a bit dense. Better negatives come from slightly underexposed shots, IIRC.
Harry Caul
Well-known
Is there any time sensitivity to doing this? Meaning, do they remain stable after shooting? I haven't bothered saving my negs, but I might start if I can get this kind of quality out of them...
newsgrunt
Well-known
I used to tape but now do the 'drown the neg in water and slap face down on glass thing'. gel bleach vs basic runny stuff, helps you control the coverage. The water basically seals the edges and keeps the bleach from the emulsion.
Corran
Well-known
I've found that if I wait several days the negative just falls apart when I try to clean the print chemicals off of it. So I would suggest you doing it that evening or the next day.
JChrome
Street Worker
I've heard that this doesn't work for FP3000B. Does anyone have experience with that?
www.stillthrill.com
www.stillthrill.com
robert blu
quiet photographer
This is on my to do list! My question if shooting outdoor did anyone find a way to keep the negative until back home? Or should I peel them only when back?
robert
robert
Monochrom
Well-known
Thanks for posting!!!
jammcat
Lick My Lens Cap
If you peel back at home you will likely have a completely destroyed image.
The chemicals will continue to interact with each-other and you'll probably have a blotchy or unusable image.
I shoot instant film and bleach the negs on the regular, but storing the negative on the go is tricky, because it will remain wet/sticky after shooting for a bit. I have tried keeping the negs in old small photo albums, but they stick to the plastic sleeves.
The chemicals will continue to interact with each-other and you'll probably have a blotchy or unusable image.
I shoot instant film and bleach the negs on the regular, but storing the negative on the go is tricky, because it will remain wet/sticky after shooting for a bit. I have tried keeping the negs in old small photo albums, but they stick to the plastic sleeves.
Mackinaw
Think Different
Luckily, I’ve been near my truck when I’ve been taking outdoor pics so I just throw the negatives on the floorboard where they can dry. So far, so good.
Jim B.
robert blu
quiet photographer
@jammcat and Mackinaw: thanks for your answer, I know the neg is sticky and difficult to "place" anywhere...yes, having the car in the proximity could help...
I tried to peel them about a couple of hours later and it still works (FP 100) but of course you loose one of the benefit to shoot instant...
robert
I tried to peel them about a couple of hours later and it still works (FP 100) but of course you loose one of the benefit to shoot instant...
robert
Mackinaw
Think Different
Apparently Fuji put a white, semi-opaque layer directly behind the black layer in FP-3000B. The black layer can be removed with bleach, but the white layer will remain. You will end up with a semi-useable negative that can be scanned, but the resulting image will be very muddy.
There are a couple of long threads on Flickr on this topic, which is where I read this stuff. I’ve never tried it.
Jim B.
Mackinaw
Think Different
Still experimenting with bleaching Fuji-FP 100C negatives. My latest. I've encountered some problems. I tape my negatives to a a piece of glass, bleach and wash, then remove the tape and hang the neg to dry. In the process of removing the neg from the glass, rinse water, and maybe some dilute bleach solution, is getting onto the emulsion and discoloring it (as well as changing the density). I've changed tape which seems to have solved that problem. I'll try and take a few more pics later today.
Jim B.
Jim B.
Corran
Well-known
Actually, you can wait as long as you want. It's a developing-out process or however you call it. Try it out.