awbphotog
Well-known
Hello! I've got a Bronica SQ-a that I got from KEH a while back. It worked fine for some time and has now developed jamming issues which I'm almost positive are the fault of the 120 back. Normally I would just grab another but they are rather expensive and I'm honestly worried that another may fail in a similar fashion. Does anybody here know a place that will repair Bronica SQ series backs, or for that matter know how to repair it themselves? I'm a handy guy and am comfortable with most small repairs, however I have little experience with Bronica equipment and can use all the help I can get. Thank you in advance.
Andy (Handy)
EDIT:: EEeek. Just realized this post should really be in the repair section. Apologies!
Andy (Handy)
EDIT:: EEeek. Just realized this post should really be in the repair section. Apologies!
kuzano
Veteran
Tamron????
Tamron????
As far as I know Tamron was the last owner of the Bronica Camera Company. I used to get information on repairs from Tamron. In addition, I would check with MAC group... consortium owning many camera companies or representing many in the US.
Also try KEH.
Tamron????
As far as I know Tamron was the last owner of the Bronica Camera Company. I used to get information on repairs from Tamron. In addition, I would check with MAC group... consortium owning many camera companies or representing many in the US.
Also try KEH.
pvdhaar
Peter
Sounds like a 'pin-link' problem.. The Bronica SQ type backs communicate with the body through a somewhat vulnerable mechanical link. On the SQ type film back, seen from the film side, there is a metal tube sticking out with a small pin inside it. The film insert has a pin driving it, the body has a pin detecting it. If any of the pins in this chain gets bent (or if there is dirt preventing them to move/spring back), the film advance state isn't communicated to the body properly and the camera will not go through a correct shutter/film advance cycle.
Another thing that can get an SQ type camers really out of sync is shooting without a lens while using MLU (mirror lock up), like when doing pinhole experiments. If you activate MLU and then advance before using the shutter (possible on some models when no lens attached), the shutter cycle becomes completely erratic from there onwards. Getting out of this state requires removal of the back and lens, rotating the advance lever with ME engaged till it blocks, cocking the shutter in the lens (rotate pins to green dots) and then putting it all together again.
Another thing that can get an SQ type camers really out of sync is shooting without a lens while using MLU (mirror lock up), like when doing pinhole experiments. If you activate MLU and then advance before using the shutter (possible on some models when no lens attached), the shutter cycle becomes completely erratic from there onwards. Getting out of this state requires removal of the back and lens, rotating the advance lever with ME engaged till it blocks, cocking the shutter in the lens (rotate pins to green dots) and then putting it all together again.