Changing development times instead of temperature?

[dogbunny]

So I ran across a temperature compensation chart on the Ilford website and I used it for developing a couple of rolls this weekend. Overall, they look good, though I haven't scanned them yet.

I was curious if there was anything to look out for / be careful with when using this method. This method appeals to me because it's only the beginning of May and already the water comes out of the tap at around 26 degrees and even with the AC on the room temp of the chemicals is about 25 degrees.

I've been measuring out all of my chemicals, then just putting them in the fridge for 10 minutes or so and that gets them down to about 22 or 23 degrees, then developing from there. The development times are shorter, so the only thing that I can think of being different--besides the time/temp--is that the total amount of agitation would be less...so maybe it would result in less contrast? Just guessing. I'm using D76, filtered water stop bath, and Ilford rapid fixer.

Any words from the more experienced are welcome 😉

Cheers,

DB

 

[craygc]

Im in Singapore and tap water is 29 degrees C. I always cool it to 25C to develop without any issues. I know people here who develop at 29C, still with no issues The only time I deviate is when the development time becomes less than 5 minutes - I either dilute the developer, eg 1:2 from 1:1 or cool it further.

 

[Fotohuis]

Most B&W developers are made to be used around room temperature (20C). However some are made on 24C like Tmax, Tanol, CG-512 and maybe some others.
The correction chart has been made to correct your times in case you have some deviation.
Other parameters are not involved. e.g. a Rodinal development above 22C will generate a lot more grain.
In practice this (Para-Amino Phenol) developer has the best result between 18C - 20C) with a minimum of agitation.
Also most high acutance developers are also not very suitable for continuous agitation (rotary development).
All specific developers have their strong and weaker points. It's always a compromize between sharpness, grain, iso rate etc.
Depending of type of film, format and the desired result you can make a choice.
BTW for cooling down the easiest way is to use ice cubes in a water bath.

 

[dogbunny]

Thanks for the responses. I guess I will keep doing as I'm doing. The negatives look okay, but I'm still waiting for my scanner to arrive so I haven't been able to examine the results more closely.

Cheers,

DB