micromoogman
Well-known
Hi, I just bought a 1960 Jupiter 3 along with the matching no. (the two first digits in the serial no. is 60 on both) Zorki 6. It is in a very nice condition. I have read here with some fear that pretty much all of them needs to be calibrated.
However, I have checked the focus on this lens this way; I taped a half transparent paper over the film frame, making sure it was sitting exactly where the film should be. Then I used the RF to fix say 1 meter, checked the focus on the paper using a loupe, whilst holding it open in B position and f1.5. And at all distances it was correctly focused.
My question is, can I relax in the notion of having a good lens?
However, I have checked the focus on this lens this way; I taped a half transparent paper over the film frame, making sure it was sitting exactly where the film should be. Then I used the RF to fix say 1 meter, checked the focus on the paper using a loupe, whilst holding it open in B position and f1.5. And at all distances it was correctly focused.
My question is, can I relax in the notion of having a good lens?
Load it with some film, and try it out. It should be fine, Try a couple close-up and wide-open with something that you can check the exact focus on film. I use a fence post, focus on the slat joining the post.
1960 is a good year for J-3's.
1960 is a good year for J-3's.
micromoogman
Well-known
Yes I will. And with pleasure this time! 
Thanks Brian!
Thanks Brian!
wolves3012
Veteran
Just FYI, the Zorki 6 has a lockable shutter button. Press and turn clockwise to lock. Except for the Zorki 1, all Zorkis have this feature (some lock the other way though). Oddly, the *only* FED to have the feature is the FED 1g. Kievs can be locked too.
randomm
Well-known
This is pretty much how I do it. Seems to work!
micromoogman
Well-known
Shot a couple of frames yesterday and it seems OK. A little soft wide open but not too soft, just pleasant. I'm also glad it's smaller than expected. A really nice lens in my opinion.
Wide open, Minolta CLE, tri-x, d76
Wide open, Minolta CLE, tri-x, d76
If it looks soft when used wide-open, try it with something like a ruler to check the exact focus.
My "made from parts" J-3, with the focus spot-on.
Wide-open at F15,
100% crop:
My "made from parts" J-3, with the focus spot-on.
Wide-open at F15,
100% crop:
gb hill
Veteran
I have a 63 J-3. It was front focusing badly. From instructions from Brian I adjusted the rear element closer to the film plane & made a much thinner shim. This is a photo I shot at a wedding at around f2.
gb hill
Veteran
micromoogman
Well-known
You have a longer depth of field if the subject is further away. For one meter @ f1.5 and 50mm lens, you like 2-3 cm to play with...
goamules
Well-known
You might be seeing a tad of flare, and most fast lenses are a tad sharper stopped down one or two stops. But my 63 Jupiter 3 has turned out to be a very nice lens. My daughter likes using it on the G-1, she is getting very nice shots. I took this one on my Canon P with Velvia, all my shots on that roll were very sharp at the focus point:
micromoogman
Well-known
Yeah, I've seen that one, very sharp! I wonder if there's anyone who has tested this lens professionally with MTF-curves and all?
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Moriturii
Well-known
Maybe the ol' scotch tape trick is worth a shot. Put Scotch tape over the film gate and check with a loupe if things are in focus? =)
micromoogman
Well-known
wolves3012
Veteran
If you've checked the focus at the the film plane, with a loupe and as you described, I'd say you have little to worry about. Try it out and enjoy the results!
Ron (Netherlands)
Well-known
I have one 60 and two 61 lenses, non of them needed any re-calibration. I really wonder what people do with these Jupiters and Sonnars to get them out of focus....
check out this thread too, might be of help....
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114095