abergon
Newbie
Hello,
I am looking for an enlarger. I would like to try B&W first but I will consider color once I acquire some skills. I shoot 35mm currently, but I am enjoying film so much that for sure in the mid-term I will extend to medium-format (6x6). Regarding enlargment size, I have a Jobo processor with two drums that accommodate 30x40 cms, so that will be my maximum size.
There is a great choice of second-hand enlargers at very reasonable prices out there, and I am not sure which brand/model to select. After quality, my second factor for choice will be the size of the device.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
I am looking for an enlarger. I would like to try B&W first but I will consider color once I acquire some skills. I shoot 35mm currently, but I am enjoying film so much that for sure in the mid-term I will extend to medium-format (6x6). Regarding enlargment size, I have a Jobo processor with two drums that accommodate 30x40 cms, so that will be my maximum size.
There is a great choice of second-hand enlargers at very reasonable prices out there, and I am not sure which brand/model to select. After quality, my second factor for choice will be the size of the device.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Dwig
Well-known
The quality of the enlarging lens is vastly more important than the quality of the enlarger itself.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
Сms? Are you in Europe? Model of enlarger depends where you are.
Most small enlargers will do 6x6. I have little, simple Vivitar which was given to me for free.
Does bw well.
You will need enlarger with color head which is good for bw as well.
But color is very different from bw. Total darkness and very good ventilation is required.
Most small enlargers will do 6x6. I have little, simple Vivitar which was given to me for free.
Does bw well.
You will need enlarger with color head which is good for bw as well.
But color is very different from bw. Total darkness and very good ventilation is required.
B-9
Devin Bro
Ive got a Omega B66 with 50/2.8 EL-Nikkor lens,
I would check on your local classifieds (Craigslist) and see what you can find for free/cheap.
That's how I found mine, for free in the box with 35mm and 6x6 carriers. I got the EL-Nikkor in a box lot of camera stuff at an auction for a few dollars.
I would check on your local classifieds (Craigslist) and see what you can find for free/cheap.
That's how I found mine, for free in the box with 35mm and 6x6 carriers. I got the EL-Nikkor in a box lot of camera stuff at an auction for a few dollars.
abergon
Newbie
Yes, I am in Europe. Thanks for the info about color. I'll star with B&W of course, but actually yes, I have total darkness and good ventilation. Not that much space though.
abergon
Newbie
Which lens should I go for?
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
Many will argue this, but don't be afraid to start with a cheap lens. After all there's a fun
learning curve that shouldn't be put off waiting for that magic lens ( or enlarger ). The money saved can be put towards papers and chemistry,both of which you will use a lot of.
I literally started doing prints in an "honest to god" closet. After your first successful prints you won't care where you do it. Have as much fun as I do. Peter
learning curve that shouldn't be put off waiting for that magic lens ( or enlarger ). The money saved can be put towards papers and chemistry,both of which you will use a lot of.
I literally started doing prints in an "honest to god" closet. After your first successful prints you won't care where you do it. Have as much fun as I do. Peter
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
For small prints space isn't big deal. I started in small bathroom and it was not limiting me at all.
Honestly, importance of the lens is overhyped for prints size like you have mentioned. As long as lens is in working order, you'll be fine.
If you do 135 and 6x6, you'll need only two, 50mm and 75mm lenses.
I would check on Durst.
http://www.jollinger.com/photo/enlargers/durst.html
BillBingham2
Registered User
A good enlarger lens is important. El Nikkors are wonderful and available pretty inexpensively. I'd had great luck with much older lenses from Kodak but those were for large format.
I also got addicted to a Grain-Focusing tool. A little device that sat on top of the easel (and a dummy sheet of the same paper you are printing onto) that has a mirror and optics to look through that help you focus the enlarger. Focusing on the grain takes the guess work out of making the sharpest image you can (at least it did for me).
B2 (;->
I also got addicted to a Grain-Focusing tool. A little device that sat on top of the easel (and a dummy sheet of the same paper you are printing onto) that has a mirror and optics to look through that help you focus the enlarger. Focusing on the grain takes the guess work out of making the sharpest image you can (at least it did for me).
B2 (;->
x-ray
Veteran
T
The price of a cheap lens isn't that much less than a top notch lens. You can buy a 50mm f2.8 EL Nikkor for under $50. I've seen them in the mid $30 range. Same is true for a Schneider Componon. You can buy a Componon (not S) for $35.
Do not buy a cheap flemsy enlarger. You'll regret it and wind up buying a good one eventually.
The Omega B-22 is very inexpensive and built like a tank. Tons of negative carriers and lens boards are available for little or nothing. A very nice color head was made which can be bout cheap. A color head is excellent for B&W. You can use the filtrs to dial in contrast grades for variable contrast paper.
The B8 Omega is excellent as well but I'm not sure if there's a color head for it.
I'd stay from the newer omegas like the B600, 700, 760 and 66. They're built a bit flemsy compared to the older ones.
Also a Beseler 23C (model I,II, III) are all superb. I'd put them in the same class as the B22 in construction although they are much larger and heavier. They're inexpensive ind tons of accessories cheap. Also there was a nice color head. The Belers may be too big for you though.
I've used Omegas primarily for fifty plus years and they can't be beat. I use a D5XL with an Ilford variable contrast head and a Durst Laborator 138 which is for 5x7 and stands 7 feet tall on a floor stand. The Durst are among the very best but parts are hard to come by and they are very expensive. The major problem with most Durst machines is bulbs. The bulbs for my 138 haven't been made for 25 years and if you find one it will cost you $300 or more. I just went through the process of converting mine to an LED light source. It took a lot of experimentation but I finally came up with a suitable light. If you find a pro level Durst that's complete and in good shape that you have or can get spare bulbs it will make a fantastic machine for you. Just make certain all parts are there and you can get bulbs. I know they can be bought cheap. I've seen Durst 4x5 enlargers like the 1000 and 1200 go for $250. These were thousands new.
Buy either Nikkor EL, Schneider Componon (S), Rodenstock Rodagon or Fujinon EX lenses. They can be found very cheap and they are the best until you get into the APO lenses which most of us don't need.
The price of a cheap lens isn't that much less than a top notch lens. You can buy a 50mm f2.8 EL Nikkor for under $50. I've seen them in the mid $30 range. Same is true for a Schneider Componon. You can buy a Componon (not S) for $35.
Do not buy a cheap flemsy enlarger. You'll regret it and wind up buying a good one eventually.
The Omega B-22 is very inexpensive and built like a tank. Tons of negative carriers and lens boards are available for little or nothing. A very nice color head was made which can be bout cheap. A color head is excellent for B&W. You can use the filtrs to dial in contrast grades for variable contrast paper.
The B8 Omega is excellent as well but I'm not sure if there's a color head for it.
I'd stay from the newer omegas like the B600, 700, 760 and 66. They're built a bit flemsy compared to the older ones.
Also a Beseler 23C (model I,II, III) are all superb. I'd put them in the same class as the B22 in construction although they are much larger and heavier. They're inexpensive ind tons of accessories cheap. Also there was a nice color head. The Belers may be too big for you though.
I've used Omegas primarily for fifty plus years and they can't be beat. I use a D5XL with an Ilford variable contrast head and a Durst Laborator 138 which is for 5x7 and stands 7 feet tall on a floor stand. The Durst are among the very best but parts are hard to come by and they are very expensive. The major problem with most Durst machines is bulbs. The bulbs for my 138 haven't been made for 25 years and if you find one it will cost you $300 or more. I just went through the process of converting mine to an LED light source. It took a lot of experimentation but I finally came up with a suitable light. If you find a pro level Durst that's complete and in good shape that you have or can get spare bulbs it will make a fantastic machine for you. Just make certain all parts are there and you can get bulbs. I know they can be bought cheap. I've seen Durst 4x5 enlargers like the 1000 and 1200 go for $250. These were thousands new.
Buy either Nikkor EL, Schneider Componon (S), Rodenstock Rodagon or Fujinon EX lenses. They can be found very cheap and they are the best until you get into the APO lenses which most of us don't need.
Bill Clark
Veteran
I have an Omega B-22 enlarger with a color head.
One feature that could interest you is I use the color filters for Black and white variable contrast paper.
One feature that could interest you is I use the color filters for Black and white variable contrast paper.
Dwig
Well-known
The Beseler and Omega enlargers already mentioned are good choices. I particularily like the Beseler 23 C and later C II models. These aren't particularly small though.
There were also good models from Durst and Meopta, which may be more common in Europe than the American brands. The Durst M301 (35mm only) and M601 are good and rather compact.
With any used enlarger, particularly with Durst and Meopta, make sure the enlarger comes with all of the parts (negative carriers, lens boards/cone/disks) that you need as these can be hard to find by themselves.
There were also good models from Durst and Meopta, which may be more common in Europe than the American brands. The Durst M301 (35mm only) and M601 are good and rather compact.
With any used enlarger, particularly with Durst and Meopta, make sure the enlarger comes with all of the parts (negative carriers, lens boards/cone/disks) that you need as these can be hard to find by themselves.
Dwig
Well-known
+1
Note that the Schneider recommended in the "Componon" series (all vowels are "o"s). There are also "Componar" and "Companon" lens series as well. The "Componar" series are less desirable though still good. The "Companon" series are excellent, but are special purpose lenses not usually appropriate for traditional darkroom enlarger use.
Be sure the lens chosen covers the intended negative format. In general:
35mm = 50mm lens
6x4.5-6.6 = 75-80mm lens
6x7-6x9 = 90-105mm lens
4x5 = 135-150mm
There have been a few 80mm lenses that cover 6x7 well, but this is not always the case.
Vics
Veteran
I couldn't disagree more. Start with the EL-Nikkor 50mm f2.8. It's a legendary lens, but plentiful and not too much money. A junk lens will produce bad results.
Spanik
Well-known
In europe Durst is about the easiest to find. Only problem is finding one with the needed accesories because those can be hard to find separately.
I just got hold of a Durst M705 last week with the negative carriers for 35, 6x6 and 6x9, condensors for those sizes and a 50mm and 80mm lens. Needs dusting and cleaning. Just browse the local adds. It is reasonably sized with a 60x60 baseboard, a bit larger than a cheap press drill.
I just got hold of a Durst M705 last week with the negative carriers for 35, 6x6 and 6x9, condensors for those sizes and a 50mm and 80mm lens. Needs dusting and cleaning. Just browse the local adds. It is reasonably sized with a 60x60 baseboard, a bit larger than a cheap press drill.
Ronald M
Veteran
A cheap lens will definitely show in 30x40 cm. I have worked with some cheapie and they are miserable. Since lenses are so cheap today, a 6 element one should be purchased. + a way to focus it. You eye is not critical enough.
Proper diffusion boxes or condensers for each focal length are required.
Buy a sturdy machine. If it shakes, prints will be fuzzy.
Buy something for which you can get parts like extra condensers and lens plates.
Proper diffusion boxes or condensers for each focal length are required.
Buy a sturdy machine. If it shakes, prints will be fuzzy.
Buy something for which you can get parts like extra condensers and lens plates.
Peter de Waal
Established
The 6x6cm Meopta Opemus 4, 5 or 6 are superb and cheap, plus they have a filter draw for quick adjustments of print density. The negative holder has 4 sliding baffles for image cropping or different formats. Anti-Newton Ring glass is available. (I have a spare A-N neg holder.)
I use Leitz, Rodenstock and Nikkor and Taylor-Hobson EL's on my Opemus. Most of the later Opemus models came with the LTM lens mount so you can use any standard enlarging lens.
The Older Meopta enlargers used a 22,5mm thread-mount that only Meopta EL lenses fit. The later Meopta Anaret's have a good reputation. Some are 22.5mm mount, some have a 22.5-39mm adapter, some are LTM. I was given an 80mm Anaret recently, but haven't tried it yet.
I use Leitz, Rodenstock and Nikkor and Taylor-Hobson EL's on my Opemus. Most of the later Opemus models came with the LTM lens mount so you can use any standard enlarging lens.
The Older Meopta enlargers used a 22,5mm thread-mount that only Meopta EL lenses fit. The later Meopta Anaret's have a good reputation. Some are 22.5mm mount, some have a 22.5-39mm adapter, some are LTM. I was given an 80mm Anaret recently, but haven't tried it yet.
BillBingham2
Registered User
When you look for an enlarger look for metal on metal. I have my father's enlarger, a De Jour that I love. Kodak and Leica made some fine ones, though they didn't have color heads available.
To the key is that you don't want your lens to shift after you've focused it. You want it to be heavy enough to not pick up vibrations from the environment. A good sturdy working surface helps here too. Turn the focusing knob and feel the movement, you want smooth yet firm from one end to another.
You may have to do some cleaning if you have a condenser head of the optics. No dust anywhere on the lenses.
Over hear in the states there are still a lot of enlargers going for cheap, can't speak to across the pond.
To the key is that you don't want your lens to shift after you've focused it. You want it to be heavy enough to not pick up vibrations from the environment. A good sturdy working surface helps here too. Turn the focusing knob and feel the movement, you want smooth yet firm from one end to another.
You may have to do some cleaning if you have a condenser head of the optics. No dust anywhere on the lenses.
Over hear in the states there are still a lot of enlargers going for cheap, can't speak to across the pond.
abergon
Newbie
You guys are amazing! Thanks for the advice and the share of experience. Durst may be the most common brand for enlargers over here (at least it was the only brand I had heard of). Browsing the French equivalent of Craigslist, enlargers can be had for a very good price. I'll make sure to post results, when they will be decent 
BillBingham2
Registered User
Make sure you get negative carriers for the size film/frame you want to use. I had to do some MAJOR EFFORT on building a 135mm mask for the De Jour.
The majors are 135, 6x6, 6x7 (&/or 9), though there are lots of others. Without them pay next to nothing for the enlarger as it's useless (unless you are handy and can build your own. You might want one for parts or just for the lens, lens mounting board, perhaps a timer. Though it would be a GREAT project for some to build up a library of negative carrier plans for different enlargers for a 3D printer.
B2 (;->
The majors are 135, 6x6, 6x7 (&/or 9), though there are lots of others. Without them pay next to nothing for the enlarger as it's useless (unless you are handy and can build your own. You might want one for parts or just for the lens, lens mounting board, perhaps a timer. Though it would be a GREAT project for some to build up a library of negative carrier plans for different enlargers for a 3D printer.
B2 (;->