Pfreddee
Well-known
I think I'm ready for the next step in film processing, making contact prints.
I don't have an enlarger; I do have a place where I could set up developing trays, a sheet of plate glass for mashing the negatives flat on the paper, and I can come up with a light source. How do I go about putting this all together? What kind of light source would work best? How about some hints on how long to expose the negatives? Any other recommendations?
A big Thank You to all who reply.
With best regards,
Pfreddee(Stephen)
PS: I think I just invented a new photo processing phrase: "...mashing the negatives flat on the paper."
I don't have an enlarger; I do have a place where I could set up developing trays, a sheet of plate glass for mashing the negatives flat on the paper, and I can come up with a light source. How do I go about putting this all together? What kind of light source would work best? How about some hints on how long to expose the negatives? Any other recommendations?
A big Thank You to all who reply.
With best regards,
Pfreddee(Stephen)
PS: I think I just invented a new photo processing phrase: "...mashing the negatives flat on the paper."
zauhar
Veteran
Stephen, it is easiest if you get the Printfile archive sleeves with a built-in pocket for 8.5x11 printing paper. You slide your negatives in, along with a sheet of paper, then mash the assembly under glass. You will need to figure out your exposure time by gradually uncovering the negatives with a sheet of cardboard while turning on the light for a set time period, so that you get bands of increasing exposure time. The magic time interval is just enough to turn unexposed film (the sprocket holes) maximal black .
Keep the distance of the light source and it's orientation consistent, of course.
Randy
Keep the distance of the light source and it's orientation consistent, of course.
Randy
lukitas
second hand noob
Whatever light you use, keep it at a fixed distance from the glass plate.
This just to ensure measurable results.
Then make test strips of transparent - developed but empty - film.
One to ten seconds in one second steps is a good starting point.
When you have found the minimum exposure time needed to make the print as black as the paper that wasn't covered by film, you have an exposure time that will make the most of your negatives.
If you're making 35mm contact sheets, you'll have a decent idea of what your negative is capable of delivering on the same grade of paper.
Of course if you're printing larger negatives, you can play at dodging and burning a little.
But the minimum exposure needed, to get transparent film to show as black as the paper can be, is always the best starting point.
Mind the contrast grade of the paper you are using. Normal for 35mm contact sheets, so you can guess at the contrast grade needed for a final print.
6x6 cm can deliver fine, 'miniature' contact prints, but postcard territory starts at 4x5 inch.
Contact prints are unmatched in piqué and resolution, a print from a 20x24 inch negative can be a marvel to behold.
This just to ensure measurable results.
Then make test strips of transparent - developed but empty - film.
One to ten seconds in one second steps is a good starting point.
When you have found the minimum exposure time needed to make the print as black as the paper that wasn't covered by film, you have an exposure time that will make the most of your negatives.
If you're making 35mm contact sheets, you'll have a decent idea of what your negative is capable of delivering on the same grade of paper.
Of course if you're printing larger negatives, you can play at dodging and burning a little.
But the minimum exposure needed, to get transparent film to show as black as the paper can be, is always the best starting point.
Mind the contrast grade of the paper you are using. Normal for 35mm contact sheets, so you can guess at the contrast grade needed for a final print.
6x6 cm can deliver fine, 'miniature' contact prints, but postcard territory starts at 4x5 inch.
Contact prints are unmatched in piqué and resolution, a print from a 20x24 inch negative can be a marvel to behold.
leicapixie
Well-known
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141393
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141393
A wonderful idea.
Very good advice.
Use "see thru negative sheets" with fairly thick 1/4" plate glass.
Get edges beveled smooth.
If you find that it works well,well printing is next!
Enlargers are easy to find, mostly free or very inexpensive.
I use the height for printing 6x9"/8x10-12 as guide.
Use the exposure for making prints..
i prefer using multigrade papers, using a "soft" for contact sheets.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141393
A wonderful idea.
Very good advice.
Use "see thru negative sheets" with fairly thick 1/4" plate glass.
Get edges beveled smooth.
If you find that it works well,well printing is next!
Enlargers are easy to find, mostly free or very inexpensive.
I use the height for printing 6x9"/8x10-12 as guide.
Use the exposure for making prints..
i prefer using multigrade papers, using a "soft" for contact sheets.
mwoenv
Well-known
The biggest problem without an enlarger is uneven illumination of the paper, e.g., if you were to hang a light bulb over the paper/negatives.
Also, the room needs be light-tight (a darkroom) so you don't get fogging of the paper before exposure and of your pack of paper when you open it up to take a sheet out. Paper fogging will result in gray, dull prints with little contrast and poor whites.
The chemicals should be adjusted to the right temperature (68F).
As previously mentioned, keep whatever setup that works constant to get reproducible results.
Also, the room needs be light-tight (a darkroom) so you don't get fogging of the paper before exposure and of your pack of paper when you open it up to take a sheet out. Paper fogging will result in gray, dull prints with little contrast and poor whites.
The chemicals should be adjusted to the right temperature (68F).
As previously mentioned, keep whatever setup that works constant to get reproducible results.