3rdtrick
Well-known
I have a converted 110 A/B from Nate but I thought I would try doing some myself. I am using backs from donor cameras as the CB-103 backs are getting quite expensive.
Actually it is a 95B, I just put the 95 face plate on.
I am using backs from donor cameras as the CB-103 backs are getting quite expensive.
The Ideal rangefinder is very handy even though it is not coupled.
I shot some FP100C in it over the weekend and it is nice and clear. The Speedliners look cool and retro but are really awkward to shoot. I have found you really do need to use the wire frame for parallax correction in portraits.
Pete
Actually it is a 95B, I just put the 95 face plate on.
I am using backs from donor cameras as the CB-103 backs are getting quite expensive.
The Ideal rangefinder is very handy even though it is not coupled.
I shot some FP100C in it over the weekend and it is nice and clear. The Speedliners look cool and retro but are really awkward to shoot. I have found you really do need to use the wire frame for parallax correction in portraits.
Pete
séamuis
Established
using backs from standard polaroids seems like a really great idea, and one ive not thought of. Ive ante dot try such a conversion myself, as I have really fallen in love with using pack film but my automatic 250 is rather lacking in control, and I can’t possibly afford one of the ‘pro’ models. I have to say, this combination looks really quite good, and even ‘OEM’. I’m rather clueless on all this, so when you say donor cameras, are you canabilizing standard automatic land cameras? is there any way you can give me some information on your process, how you did this?
3rdtrick
Well-known
Yes the donor camera was a Polaroid Automatic 100 that I could not get working. This was my third attempt, the first one is pieces in a box. I do have a professionally converted Pathfinder but I wanted to play around with the more retro Speedliner. The Instant Options site has some good information.
http://www.instantoptions.com/
http://www.instantoptions.com/
charjohncarter
Veteran
I have one that was given to me, and I riped and tore it into a 4x5. I don't use it much because developing the negatives is a hassle. But here it one from it:
3rdtrick
Well-known
I did not want to go the negative route that is why I did the packfilm conversion. At least you can pre focus on the ground glass, I had to make sure the infinity stops were adjusted to the new film plane. Was not difficult once I figured it out.
Pete
Pete
one90guy
Well-known
I have converted 1 110A using the 103 back which I made the mistake of selling, a 150 using a Polaroid 100 back, more work but looked good, but it had a bad light leak, its in pieces waiting for another go and I am doing another 150 with a 103 back. I have a bad habit of starting projects and becoming stalled, so I start another one.
David
David
3rdtrick
Well-known
David,
I also have a converted 110 A/B with the 103 back. It was done professionally and is an awesome camera. I chose the 100 back for the 95 so I could keep as much of the original metal as I could. I am finding that the plastic bodies like the 210 do better on the 150 style cameras. Did you grind down those ridges on the film plane? I had to take my 150 apart and do that to stop the light leak. I am working on an 800 now and will post when complete. Let us see your 150 when you complete it.
Pete
I also have a converted 110 A/B with the 103 back. It was done professionally and is an awesome camera. I chose the 100 back for the 95 so I could keep as much of the original metal as I could. I am finding that the plastic bodies like the 210 do better on the 150 style cameras. Did you grind down those ridges on the film plane? I had to take my 150 apart and do that to stop the light leak. I am working on an 800 now and will post when complete. Let us see your 150 when you complete it.
Pete
one90guy
Well-known
Never considered the plastic bodies like the 210's, I was just looking for cheaper. I have got 2 of the 103 backs on Goodwill online. Bought old passport Polaroids for the backs. Yes ground down the ridges, when I took it apart still never could tell where the light leak was located. I need to get the camera out and finish it, been trying to finish started projects. How are you attaching the backs on your cameras? I have just been using two part JB Weld, never had a problem with the backs coming loose.
David
David
3rdtrick
Well-known
The CB-103 backs are the best but they are getting harder to find and expensive when you do. My 110 A/B has a chrome 103 and it is awesome. I mount them with auto body tape and then drill/tap for 6-32 screws. The screws are away from the bellows but I extend it just to make sure it does not get damaged. Funny, the plastic bodies have four circles embossed in them that I assume is where they want me to drill for the screws. I shot my 95 this afternoon at a flea market with 3000B film. It drew a lot of attention and a few people wanted to pay me to take their picture.
Pete
Pete
one90guy
Well-known
That is a great looking camera, the fit and finish way exceeds mine. I also never consider the 95, when the 110's started going up I gave the 150's a try, and found the lenses are not that bad. The next time you change film packs I sure like a look at your screw placements.
David
David
3rdtrick
Well-known
Thank you for the compliment. I still have film in my 95B so I took a picture of my 150. There were little circles from the casting so that is where I drilled. The top screws need to be flat head and countersunk so they do not foul the lid and the bottom screws need their heads turned down so they fit. A drill and file work for this. I drilled and tapped for 6-32 but you can probably use self tapping screws.
one90guy
Well-known
Thank you for the compliment. I still have film in my 95B so I took a picture of my 150. There were little circles from the casting so that is where I drilled. The top screws need to be flat head and countersunk so they do not foul the lid and the bottom screws need their heads turned down so they fit. A drill and file work for this. I drilled and tapped for 6-32 but you can probably use self tapping screws.
Thank you for the pic, sorry but one more question. How long are the screws? I always worried about making contact with the bellows, also would you mind if I copy the picture? Opps another question Thanks
David
3rdtrick
Well-known
No problem David, I think they were 5/8 but I cut the bottom ones off a little. The are away from the bellows but I do extend it when drilling just to make sure.
Pete
Pete