NickTrop
Veteran
Looking to experiment with some slide film cross processed in C41 chemicals (1-hr lab most likely...) Any recommendations for which slide film or general advice? Samples would be wonderful... Thanks in advance!
Juan Valdenebro
Truth is beauty
All ISO100 Kodak slide films work well... Normal C-41 development. Test one roll with every scene at -1, N and N+1 to see what you prefer...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40894234@N07/3766087783/sizes/m/
Cheers,
Juan
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40894234@N07/3766087783/sizes/m/
Cheers,
Juan
rockman525
Member
I'm not quite sure of your body type but even under those dreadful safelights I think you could get away with a mid length fitted black cocktail dress from Oscar de la Renta (Leica man...I just know it!), black satin 4" heels with rhinestones by Dikuza, and a simple black alligator bag with 21 carat gold clasp from Gucci. When you have finished your cross processing just slip your M7 into Mr Gucci's warm interior and hit the streets for some late night action. Have fun 
rxmd
May contain traces of nut
If you want to have them printed in a 1-hour lab, you have to take care that the minilab's automatic frame detection may not work if the colour of the base is off by too much. I find that Kodak film is much less problematic than Fuji in this respect.
I currently use Kodak 5285 (=E100D) with good results.
Also you may have to convince the 1-hour lab people that they will take slide film at all, and/or prepare to get complaints when they hand you back your film. Cross-processing messes up their chemistry.
I currently use Kodak 5285 (=E100D) with good results.
Also you may have to convince the 1-hour lab people that they will take slide film at all, and/or prepare to get complaints when they hand you back your film. Cross-processing messes up their chemistry.
dave lackey
Veteran
Attachments
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dave lackey
Veteran
johannielscom
Snorting silver salts
I'm not quite sure of your body type but even under those dreadful safelights I think you could get away with a mid length fitted black cocktail dress from Oscar de la Renta (Leica man...I just know it!), black satin 4" heels with rhinestones by Dikuza, and a simple black alligator bag with 21 carat gold clasp from Gucci. When you have finished your cross processing just slip your M7 into Mr Gucci's warm interior and hit the streets for some late night action. Have fun
Ah, we have a specialist on the topic here
I shot Kodak EDUPE film (slide duplicating film, past date) rated as 50ASA and had it crossed in C41. Very nice.
Ask LeicaTom on details, he's known to have shots cross-processed every now and then
John Lawrence
Well-known
I've tried it with Fuji Sensia II (100) and found that I got a very red cast at ISO 100, but had better results exposing at ISO 25.
John
John
Mablo
Well-known
Kodak 100G goes nicely in C41. It doesn't look at all like cross processed.
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filmtwit
Desperate but not serious
Keep in mind that most labs won't touch xprocess because it contaminates tanks. Also, as far as stability and predictability in reality you won't have any.
LeicaTom
Watch that step!
That contamination and ruining chemicals while doing this is a bunch of BS!!!!!!
I've been CP films since the late 1980's and the only problem you get is if you send like 6 to 10 rolls of the stuff through at a time, then you will "spike" the chemicals, back when I shot alot, still I only put one or two rolls through a week (spaced) and it never altered the store's chemicals of ruined anything.
Most 1 hour labs WON'T develop the E6 tp C-41 anyway, bc of that stigma that it ruins stuff....... I have a "buddy" at my shop who does it when the boss isn't looking.......she also prints work to OUR STANDARD she takes the extra time to channel out unwanted colors and get the look I want, pale blown out skin, red red lips etc.
Kodak 100 Slide film works best, though there was a Agfa slide film I used in Germany back in the late 80's early 90's I don't rememeber which, I'm sure it was discontinued film, while I never used fresh new expensive slide films, I always used out of date, discontinued stuff, $1 A ROLL OR LESS, films which sadly turned out to be kickass film which I couldn't find anymore *1990's Kodak Ektachrome "Extra Color" was the BEST CP film ever made, it's IMPOSSIBLE to find now, I think I have (2) rolls still frozen*
Treat CP film just like slide film, I "overexpose" by 1 or 1 1/2 stops, always better to watch your lighting and bracket a few shots, dark shots and shadows are unforgiving and too far overexposed will ruin details, it's a real happy/unhappy medium getting it right, each roll of film is different.
I find that overcast days shoot CP really well, I stay out of direct bright sunshine.....
I haven't been doing much CP lately, the whole of shooting of film has been down in my business.
Tom
I've been CP films since the late 1980's and the only problem you get is if you send like 6 to 10 rolls of the stuff through at a time, then you will "spike" the chemicals, back when I shot alot, still I only put one or two rolls through a week (spaced) and it never altered the store's chemicals of ruined anything.
Most 1 hour labs WON'T develop the E6 tp C-41 anyway, bc of that stigma that it ruins stuff....... I have a "buddy" at my shop who does it when the boss isn't looking.......she also prints work to OUR STANDARD she takes the extra time to channel out unwanted colors and get the look I want, pale blown out skin, red red lips etc.
Kodak 100 Slide film works best, though there was a Agfa slide film I used in Germany back in the late 80's early 90's I don't rememeber which, I'm sure it was discontinued film, while I never used fresh new expensive slide films, I always used out of date, discontinued stuff, $1 A ROLL OR LESS, films which sadly turned out to be kickass film which I couldn't find anymore *1990's Kodak Ektachrome "Extra Color" was the BEST CP film ever made, it's IMPOSSIBLE to find now, I think I have (2) rolls still frozen*
Treat CP film just like slide film, I "overexpose" by 1 or 1 1/2 stops, always better to watch your lighting and bracket a few shots, dark shots and shadows are unforgiving and too far overexposed will ruin details, it's a real happy/unhappy medium getting it right, each roll of film is different.
I find that overcast days shoot CP really well, I stay out of direct bright sunshine.....
I haven't been doing much CP lately, the whole of shooting of film has been down in my business.
Tom
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filmtwit
Desperate but not serious
Do you really want your neg's processed right after the guy who had his neg's xprocessed?
LeicaTom
Watch that step!
Wouldn't bother me, I have ran BOTH types of film through 1 hour apart and no problems!
Tom
nimcod
Established
from memory, as the tech sheets at work.
kodak state not to run more than 2 concurrent films of e6 through the c41 process before a manual replenishment or/c41 film break, and not to exceed more than 10% of your daily processing load with e6.
ive always stuck with this for the last year and never had a problem with my chemistry. but i can understand some lab techs being more wary due to the lack of information.
if i recall it shifts the ph level of the chems to rather than another type of contamination.
kodak state not to run more than 2 concurrent films of e6 through the c41 process before a manual replenishment or/c41 film break, and not to exceed more than 10% of your daily processing load with e6.
ive always stuck with this for the last year and never had a problem with my chemistry. but i can understand some lab techs being more wary due to the lack of information.
if i recall it shifts the ph level of the chems to rather than another type of contamination.
dmr
Registered Abuser
The only thing I've ever cross-processed is Sensia, and I really didn't intend to shoot it that way. It turned out OK. Story and photos here:
http://omababe.blogspot.com/2007/10/cross-processing-bean.html
To get it processed I just took it to Walgreens with a few rolls of c41 and played dumb. I ordered a DO (no CD) for all. The negatives came out exactly as expected, clear base, no amber mask, and clear negative images.
They scanned just fine on the SD IV.
One thing I want to do as soon as the weather becomes non-sucky is to shoot a "revitalized" neighborhood (which has been shot to death, almost en cliche', by local photogs) but do it in cross-processed MF for a twist I haven't seen, yet, anyway.
I picked up a roll of 120 Provia 100 for this, but the way the weather has been, it ain't gonna happen for at least several weeks.
I will post some samples when I do it.
NickTrop
Veteran
Great advice and great samples (partial to LeicaTom's though ... ) Thanks, all... Kodak 100 speed. Walgreen's, add a few other rolls, play dumb... Any labs I can mail to that will do this for a reasonable rate w/o playing dumb? Thanks again...
... ) Thanks, all... Kodak 100 speed. Walgreen's, add a few other rolls, play dumb... Any labs I can mail to that will do this for a reasonable rate w/o playing dumb? Thanks again...
filmtwit
Desperate but not serious
ANd yet, most labs won't touch xprocess . . .
My two old stories concerning xprocessed:
I used to work at the only motion picture film lab in LA that handled xprocessed film. We did all the camera neg development on the film "Three Kings" which had about 40% of the film shot in xprocessed. The work from the original was astounding. We'd color time and within 12 hours would make IP's and (and then) IN's of the material to lock down the color. The IN's were then used as cut neg's in the OCN. We were surprised at how much of the color was lost though in the release prints due to being 4-5 generations away from the OCN's.
Years ago I handled a friends wedding reception with E6 (Fuji), gave him the rolls to get get developed (he's a former photographer and I noted that these should be processed in E6). He gave them to his wife who took them the local version of Wallymart and was shocked at the results of the xprocessed film they got back ("Jeff, what did you do our film!"). Ugh.
My two old stories concerning xprocessed:
I used to work at the only motion picture film lab in LA that handled xprocessed film. We did all the camera neg development on the film "Three Kings" which had about 40% of the film shot in xprocessed. The work from the original was astounding. We'd color time and within 12 hours would make IP's and (and then) IN's of the material to lock down the color. The IN's were then used as cut neg's in the OCN. We were surprised at how much of the color was lost though in the release prints due to being 4-5 generations away from the OCN's.
Years ago I handled a friends wedding reception with E6 (Fuji), gave him the rolls to get get developed (he's a former photographer and I noted that these should be processed in E6). He gave them to his wife who took them the local version of Wallymart and was shocked at the results of the xprocessed film they got back ("Jeff, what did you do our film!"). Ugh.
Disaster_Area
Gadget Monger
The one biggest piece of advice I can give is to underexpose by about a stop, contrary to what you'll read online in a lot of places. I've seen a lot people say to overexpose, but I find highlights blow WAY too much doing this. It's ok if you want a super high contast, posterized style image, but if you just want the funky colour shifts, underexpose. I've tried a few different films... I really liked fuji's films, especially Astia and RMS... velvia is ok, but not my favorite. Fuji RMS is my all time favorite but it's been discontinued for quite a while now...a real shame
Fuji RMS:
Fuji Velvia
Kodak Ektachrome:
Fuji Astia
Fuji RMS:
Fuji Velvia
Kodak Ektachrome:
Fuji Astia
Freakscene
Obscure member
Yes, Kodak EPP was the best cross-process film for everyone - easiest to shoot, easiest to process and print, very predictable, great results - but is now long gone.
Cross processing does not have negative effects on large volume C41 machines if, as Tom points out, you don't run too much through the machine at once.
It was popular enough that a lab where I worked had a dedicated xpro line at one time.
Marty
dmr
Registered Abuser
Ooooohhhhh! Major coincidence here.
I know I've mentioned here that I have a FOAF who runs the photo department at a local (but very inconvenient to me) Wally World.
Well, I just got a call from my friend on a totally different topic, and for some reason I mentioned cross processing.
He said that they tried it early one morning before they decomissioned the film machine at that shop. He said they just ran it through, with the normal run of CD and prints, and that it worked fine, but both the prints and CD scans were "greenish" but otherwise normal.
This was on a Fuji 390 Minilab.
He said the big boss looked in and asked what the heck they were doing, but didn't seem too concerned about it.
He's gonna send me a few scans from that job when he gets home. He didn't say what film, but I'm assuming some kind of Ektachrome or Elite Chrome.
Now, back to the new project at hand. When I picked up the Provia (this was at our remaining real photo shop) I told him what I was going to do and asked if they would (cross) process it. He said they do it all the time.