lilmsmaggie
Established
I'm new to RF's. I've had a used R3M with Heliar 50mm f2 for about a month now and just getting around to shooting today, in fact about 10 minutes ago to be exact.
My head is still in SLR mode where my other cameras set to aperture priority select the shutter speed for me.
My first impression is its a great little camera. Fuss factor reminds me of my first SLR (a Minolta SRT101). With changing light conditions, decided to park myself on a bench and wait. Since I didn't want to fuss with the camera settings to much, I settled on a aperture for hyper-distance focus but because of the light, I still had to change shutter speed settings.
So far (and this could be my lack of skill) it occurs to me that I should consider shooting with faster film for street scenes, to give myself more exposure latitude.
So bottomline: How do I get a handle on this RF thingy for best results?
My head is still in SLR mode where my other cameras set to aperture priority select the shutter speed for me.
My first impression is its a great little camera. Fuss factor reminds me of my first SLR (a Minolta SRT101). With changing light conditions, decided to park myself on a bench and wait. Since I didn't want to fuss with the camera settings to much, I settled on a aperture for hyper-distance focus but because of the light, I still had to change shutter speed settings.
So far (and this could be my lack of skill) it occurs to me that I should consider shooting with faster film for street scenes, to give myself more exposure latitude.
So bottomline: How do I get a handle on this RF thingy for best results?
Steinberg2010
Well-known
Bear in mind that the exposure latitude for negative film is greater than that of digital. Once you've metered and adjusted the camera try not to worry too much unless you walk into a tunnel/shoot on the opposite side of the street where it's darker.
Try focussing the rangefinder at a distance near that which you anticipate your subject being, then when you want to take the photo that will reduce the amount of time needed to align the images in the viewfinder.
Hope this helps!
Try focussing the rangefinder at a distance near that which you anticipate your subject being, then when you want to take the photo that will reduce the amount of time needed to align the images in the viewfinder.
Hope this helps!
lilmsmaggie
Established
Sounds like you talking about hyperfocal distance shooting which is what I was essentially trying to do rather than raising the camera and trying to focus and shoot at the same time, I'm pre focusing on a spot and trusting the meter. Otherwise, I have to try and remember what the flashing numbers are trying to tell me. By that time, the subject has changed and or moved on.
Kim Coxon
Moderator
Unless the light conditions are changing markedly or you are shooting alternately between shade and sun, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
I normally use a hndheld meter to get an incident reading in the area I am going to use, set that and then leave it. Failing that use the camera to take a reading off grass or some other mid tone and use that. If you point the camera at the sky and watch the inbuilt meter as you gradually point at the ground, the meter will change up to 3 stops and yet the light hasn't changed. The main reason I rarely use an automatic mode especially average/center weighted camera meters.
Kim
I normally use a hndheld meter to get an incident reading in the area I am going to use, set that and then leave it. Failing that use the camera to take a reading off grass or some other mid tone and use that. If you point the camera at the sky and watch the inbuilt meter as you gradually point at the ground, the meter will change up to 3 stops and yet the light hasn't changed. The main reason I rarely use an automatic mode especially average/center weighted camera meters.
Kim
Neare
Well-known
I think reading the light is something that is picked up fairly quickly as you go along. I used a meter for about a month before leaving it at home after that. I shoot without a meter and my guesstimates are generally right where I wanted them to be.
With RF, using hyper-focal to preset is helpful, then you use tiny adjustments to get the focus perfect. A bit of practice and it makes for a very quick system and can be much quicker than any AF mechanism.
Regarding what films to use, again just a bit of getting used to the light will allow you to make a decision on what film you like to use. The standard is mostly 400iso's. Though 100's are used during the day and a few people also like shooting 1600iso during the day. Though apparently Neopan 1600 has been discontinued so I guess that's going to stop. Just get used to the light and you'll come to know what to expect before you leave the house.
With RF, using hyper-focal to preset is helpful, then you use tiny adjustments to get the focus perfect. A bit of practice and it makes for a very quick system and can be much quicker than any AF mechanism.
Regarding what films to use, again just a bit of getting used to the light will allow you to make a decision on what film you like to use. The standard is mostly 400iso's. Though 100's are used during the day and a few people also like shooting 1600iso during the day. Though apparently Neopan 1600 has been discontinued so I guess that's going to stop. Just get used to the light and you'll come to know what to expect before you leave the house.
umboody
Established
If you're worried about focusing all the time, it might be worth looking at the Super-Wide Heliar range. I've just started using a 15/4.5 on my Leica M6 and I hardly ever need to touch the focus ring. For normal daylight situtations, I shoot at f8 or higher and the depth of field extends infinity to around a 50cm. Super sharp shots without having to worry about the focusing. You do need to get close to your subjects though...
lilmsmaggie
Established
I chose a street corner that was framed by trees on both sides and some branch overhang. I was sitting back from the corner on a bench mostly in shade shooting into this tree-framed area that was in sunlight. Not sure because of my position but I think there may have been passing clouds overhead because the light would change back and forth anywhere from 1 to 2 stops according to the Bessa's meter and I was shooting FP4+.
Today, I've switched to Delta 400.
I think I'll try a slightly different approach: Select an aperture & shutter speed and fine tune focusing. Unfortunately, my CV Heliar does not have a focusing spur, and I'm still getting use to this lens. I may eventually try using a handheld meter with the Bessa as Kim and Neare have done.
Today, I've switched to Delta 400.
I think I'll try a slightly different approach: Select an aperture & shutter speed and fine tune focusing. Unfortunately, my CV Heliar does not have a focusing spur, and I'm still getting use to this lens. I may eventually try using a handheld meter with the Bessa as Kim and Neare have done.
Neare
Well-known
Also remember that you have a lot of maneuverability when exposing on film. If you underexpose 2 stops during the day, you might be surprised to find that your shot is still absolutely usable. The best thing is to be in a suitable setting range to make the exposure, but if you don't have time to make small adjustments don't worry about it and go for the shot. Getting the shot you want is more important than missing it because your aperture was one stop two wide. 
I'm a big fan of Delta 400 especially when processed in xtol.
I'm a big fan of Delta 400 especially when processed in xtol.
goffer
Well-known
I typically meter off my palm in time of need... quick, easy, and has yet to fail me.
Tompas
Wannabe Künstler
My standard operating procedure involves my Bessa L with a 25mm Snapshot-Skopar set to 3m distance. With a 400 ISO film (I use Kodak's BW400CN) on somewhat sunny days I get apertures between 8 and 16 at 250/s meaning I need not worry about focus. I meter the light once and then adjust according to light changes (clouds, shadows, whatever).
As a second camera I usually carry a Bessa R3a with a 50mm M-Hexanon that I use like a telephoto lens (a 50mm is a tele for me). Same metering style.
I'm a little proud that I very, very rarely mis-expose a shot so badly that it's beyond repair.
As a second camera I usually carry a Bessa R3a with a 50mm M-Hexanon that I use like a telephoto lens (a 50mm is a tele for me). Same metering style.
I'm a little proud that I very, very rarely mis-expose a shot so badly that it's beyond repair.
patois
Established
I would build on what other people have said about film and exposure latitude to tell you that just because can meter each time doesn't mean you have to do so. The hardest part of using the R3M with the heliar 50 is just letting go. If you do a good job of metering the first time, unless drastic differences in light occur you are going to be fine. Also, depending on how good your vision is, you can shoot with both eyes open and the rangefinder at your right eye.
tonyjuliano
Wooden Indian
Formula for success on the street with your R3M...
Load up some Kodak Tri-X, set your R3M for 1000 ISO. Set your aperture for F11, focus for infinity @ F11.
Snap away...
Load up some Kodak Tri-X, set your R3M for 1000 ISO. Set your aperture for F11, focus for infinity @ F11.
Snap away...