Atlantis
Member
It’s a Sunpak PZ42X. It was in a cabinet for months without being used. Now it doesn’t turn on.
I changed the batteries, to no avail.
What could be the problem?
I changed the batteries, to no avail.
What could be the problem?
CMur12
Veteran
Is there any chance you put the batteries in backwards (I've done this) or the fresh batteries weren't really fresh?
- Murray
- Murray
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
You may need to "reform" or rebuild the capacitor. Put new batteries in and switch the flash on for about a second, switch it off for 30 seconds. Repeat this for several minutes. Even a perfectly good and new flash with new batteries may take a few seconds before you see a ready light. So, after a while of this brief on/off process, switch the flash on for a few seconds to see if the ready light will come on. If the unit becomes hot at any time then just stop.
If you're lucky, you may get a ready light in under 15 minutes of this on/off cycling process. After that, all should be good and the flash will operate normally.
I have revived several flashes this way.
Switch it off and remove the batteries if it starts to get hot. Otherwise, if you don't get a ready light with this on/off process, you're very likely out of luck. Every flash I've recovered has been in less than 15 minutes of on/off cycles.
I have five flashes that I "pop" every month - that is, put batteries in, turn on, let sit for 5 minutes with ready light lit, pop the flash, repeat a few times, remove batteries.
Most flashes have a "test" button that'll let you pop the flash without mounting it on a camera.
I try to do this once a month with my flashes simply because I rarely use my flashes. The instruction manuals suggest popping them at least once a month. This prevents the capacitor from degrading.
If you're lucky, you may get a ready light in under 15 minutes of this on/off cycling process. After that, all should be good and the flash will operate normally.
I have revived several flashes this way.
Switch it off and remove the batteries if it starts to get hot. Otherwise, if you don't get a ready light with this on/off process, you're very likely out of luck. Every flash I've recovered has been in less than 15 minutes of on/off cycles.
I have five flashes that I "pop" every month - that is, put batteries in, turn on, let sit for 5 minutes with ready light lit, pop the flash, repeat a few times, remove batteries.
Most flashes have a "test" button that'll let you pop the flash without mounting it on a camera.
I try to do this once a month with my flashes simply because I rarely use my flashes. The instruction manuals suggest popping them at least once a month. This prevents the capacitor from degrading.
CMur12
Veteran
This is good information.
Am I right to interpret this to mean that the flash should be stored in the discharged state?
- Murray
Am I right to interpret this to mean that the flash should be stored in the discharged state?
- Murray
zuikologist
.........................
I also clean the battery contacts and shoe (batteries removed) periodically as they may have a film build up of oxidation even if they look clean, especially if the flash has been stored with batteries in it. Some vinegar and a q-tip should work.
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
The most important thing is the state or overall "health" of the capacitor. A new flash unit left unused for years, or an older unit left unused for many months, will result in a loss of the capacitor's ability to hold a charge. What happens is that the dielectric material in the capacitor degrades and leaks between the capacitor's "plates" (positive and negative areas).
Reforming a capacitor reverses this degradation.
Anyway, the only time a flash is fully charged is when batteries are present and the flash is either in Standby or On. Once the flash is off and batteries are removed (as they should be when the flash is not in use), the charge will dissipate over time. That is normal and that's what you want when not using the flash. However, to prevent the capacitor from starting to degrade, it should be powered up and popped periodically - my Nikon and Vivitar manuals say to do this once a month. In all honesty, sometimes I wait several months. When I wait too long, I do notice it takes a wee bit longer to get that first ready light. After that, all is good.
A word of caution: flashes can be very dangerous! Don't short the contacts or touch them. Please consult the owner's manual for your flash unit for safety warnings.
Also, in the reforming process, it is important not to keep the "dead" flash powered on too long - try half a second, then one second, but no more than a few seconds (a healthy flash with good batteries would certainly give you a ready light within a few seconds) and certainly do not leave it unattended. Turn it off if it gets hot.
Flash units with bad capacitors can explode:
https://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/06/how-to-keep-your-old-flash-from.html?m=1
(I've edited my initial post to remove the "let it sit" remark, as that was misleading)
Switch it on for a second, switch it off for 30 seconds. Repeat this for several minutes. Switch it on for a few seconds to see if the ready light will come on. If the unit becomes hot at any time then just stop.
I'm writing this based on what I've done - I've revived years-long "dead" flashes within five minutes.
Of course, an internet search on "reforming a flash capacitor" will produce plenty of articles.
Atlantis
Member
Thank you for the messages.
I cleaned a bit the contacts.
And then tried turning it on and off for some minutes, to no avail for the moment.
And more bad news: my dear Nikon SB-23 died too
I cleaned a bit the contacts.
And then tried turning it on and off for some minutes, to no avail for the moment.
And more bad news: my dear Nikon SB-23 died too
charjohncarter
Veteran
I've had many 'old' flashes that have been brought back to life by doing what Pal K suggested. Sunpak are the ones I've had the worst luck with. I hope I'm wrong in your case. But Pal K's regime is certainly worth trying.
David Hughes
David Hughes
I'm amazed that they don't tell you this in the manual; most of them do in one form or another.
It also works with electronic cameras that reply on condensers for something or the other.
Regards, David
It also works with electronic cameras that reply on condensers for something or the other.
Regards, David
blumoon
Well-known
First I'd try cleaning the contacts. Make sure there's no corrosion.
Put some fresh tested batteries in the correct way. Turn the flash on and let it sit for awhile (5-20 minutes). If the test light comes on, fire the flash 4-5 times to get the capacitor formed.
Put some fresh tested batteries in the correct way. Turn the flash on and let it sit for awhile (5-20 minutes). If the test light comes on, fire the flash 4-5 times to get the capacitor formed.
BillBingham2
Registered User
PK, thank you for the info and the link to the blog!
I have several older flashes (especially my old Vivitar 192/292 that are my all time favorite for power/weight and style) that I would love to breath life into.
Got some reading to do and see if I can get them working with my XE-3......
Thanks again for the great info!
B2 (;->
I have several older flashes (especially my old Vivitar 192/292 that are my all time favorite for power/weight and style) that I would love to breath life into.
Got some reading to do and see if I can get them working with my XE-3......
Thanks again for the great info!
B2 (;->
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
With a flash that hasn't been used for years, the only thing that concerns me about the process is how long to switch the flash on waiting for that ready light. Turning it on for just a second isn't so much in expectation of getting a ready light, but to put voltage across the capacitor. On an old flash with a capacitor in an unknown state, you don't want to put full voltage across it for a long time.
With flashes that I know worked perfectly just a few months ago, I don't have a problem leaving the switch in the on position for 10 or 20 seconds. My Pentax 110 flashes take about 20 seconds before I get the ready light. But I know they've worked fine just a few months ago. After getting that first ready light, I can pop the flash and it'll be ready again in about 8 seconds.
My Nikon and Vivitar flashes, if not used for months, will give me that first ready light in about 8 seconds. After that, I can pop them and the ready light can come back on almost immediately or within a few seconds.
Again, these are known good flashes.
On one dead flash, probably hadn't been used in many years, I did the on/off routine and the flash revived in under 15 minutes. Eventually I could hear the whine upon turning the flash on, so I left it on a bit longer and then I got the ready light.
But once you've got that ready light from a revived flash, you're still not done with reforming - which is why I again provide this link:
https://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/06/how-to-keep-your-old-flash-from.html?m=1
With flashes that I know worked perfectly just a few months ago, I don't have a problem leaving the switch in the on position for 10 or 20 seconds. My Pentax 110 flashes take about 20 seconds before I get the ready light. But I know they've worked fine just a few months ago. After getting that first ready light, I can pop the flash and it'll be ready again in about 8 seconds.
My Nikon and Vivitar flashes, if not used for months, will give me that first ready light in about 8 seconds. After that, I can pop them and the ready light can come back on almost immediately or within a few seconds.
Again, these are known good flashes.
On one dead flash, probably hadn't been used in many years, I did the on/off routine and the flash revived in under 15 minutes. Eventually I could hear the whine upon turning the flash on, so I left it on a bit longer and then I got the ready light.
But once you've got that ready light from a revived flash, you're still not done with reforming - which is why I again provide this link:
https://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/06/how-to-keep-your-old-flash-from.html?m=1
seany65
Well-known
Prolly assassinated by the Russians.
charjohncarter
Veteran
PK, I'm amazed at how these do sometimes come back to life. About 15 years ago everybody wanted to give away flash units because of the trigger voltage problem (digital cameras). I must have had 20 old flash after that. I have to say most came back to life but a lot of them I wasn't confident with. I still have 8 that I like to use but you reminded me to give them a kick which I did this morning.
My favorites for my photography are: the Minolta 320x (I only have had one fail but I still have 4 that work and that failed one that only works on full power, no auto) and the Vivitar 2600 series (3). They (the 2600 series) have really never given me trouble, but they aren't as strong as I would like (but the are small, ask David Allen Harvey) .
I would say that you have to pick your films to match some of these units. I used Arista EDU ultra film and they are not good films for flash photography unless you do tests with their film to zero in on your auto exposure (and maybe metering exposure).
For me flash is fill photography and auto exposure flash not studio lighting. So my use may not be yours.
My favorite set up as stupid as RFF will think, is my Olympus 35RC (shutter priority, and a leaf shutter) with a 2600 Vivitar flash set at auto for fill or quickly shift to indoor.
I was indoor:
TriX HC-110h by John Carter, on Flickr
My favorites for my photography are: the Minolta 320x (I only have had one fail but I still have 4 that work and that failed one that only works on full power, no auto) and the Vivitar 2600 series (3). They (the 2600 series) have really never given me trouble, but they aren't as strong as I would like (but the are small, ask David Allen Harvey) .
I would say that you have to pick your films to match some of these units. I used Arista EDU ultra film and they are not good films for flash photography unless you do tests with their film to zero in on your auto exposure (and maybe metering exposure).
For me flash is fill photography and auto exposure flash not studio lighting. So my use may not be yours.
My favorite set up as stupid as RFF will think, is my Olympus 35RC (shutter priority, and a leaf shutter) with a 2600 Vivitar flash set at auto for fill or quickly shift to indoor.
I was indoor:
TriX HC-110h by John Carter, on Flickrzuiko85
Veteran
There may be some danger in using old flashes that may have a high trigger voltage that could damage the flash hot shoes or flash circuits of some modern digital cameras.
Hari
Well-known
I got an SB-24 for the portable flash
and also a Balcar unit
it's the same with the big Balcar
the manual suggests 'popping'
every few months
and also a Balcar unit
it's the same with the big Balcar
the manual suggests 'popping'
every few months
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
That is true.
For example, the original Vivitar 285 is not safe to use with digital cameras because of its high trigger voltage, but the 285 HV is. In this case, "HV" must mean "happy voltage"
How to tell the difference? Look at the side connector:
(I forget where this photo is from)
Attachments
charjohncarter
Veteran
It is too bad but I never trust an older flash on a digital camera. The only solution is a Wein Safe, also too bad it costs $50.
If you are braver than I: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
If you are braver than I: http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html
Atlantis
Member
Thank you again.
My SB-23 revived! I cleaned a bit the contacts with a cotton bud moistened with apple vinegar. And apparently this is what made the flash work again.
But I still haven’t had luck with my Sunpak. I cleaned the contacts with vinegar and also with a pencil rubber (and by the way, the inner contacts are tiny springs, difficult to clean, and it is impossible to rub them with a pencil rubber without damaging them).
I also tried with a new set of non-rechargeable batteries.
And I turned the flash on and off for some minutes. I don’t know how much time I should do this routine, which implies that I spend time doing this and have my hands occupied with this task.
My SB-23 revived! I cleaned a bit the contacts with a cotton bud moistened with apple vinegar. And apparently this is what made the flash work again.
But I still haven’t had luck with my Sunpak. I cleaned the contacts with vinegar and also with a pencil rubber (and by the way, the inner contacts are tiny springs, difficult to clean, and it is impossible to rub them with a pencil rubber without damaging them).
I also tried with a new set of non-rechargeable batteries.
And I turned the flash on and off for some minutes. I don’t know how much time I should do this routine, which implies that I spend time doing this and have my hands occupied with this task.
Atlantis
Member
I have isopropyl alcohol and a contact cleaner (and lubricant). Could I clean the contacts with one of these products?
I attach two photos.
Look at something green in some borders. It is subtle, and I don’t know if that is just the glue or something which is not wrong. It is a relatively new flash, bought like 10 years ago. And yes, last years it hasn’t been used (I don’t remember when was the last time I fired it).
I attach two photos.
Look at something green in some borders. It is subtle, and I don’t know if that is just the glue or something which is not wrong. It is a relatively new flash, bought like 10 years ago. And yes, last years it hasn’t been used (I don’t remember when was the last time I fired it).
