jusxusfanatic
Well-known
FOR ONE ROLL – HP5+
1) Mix 293ml of Water + 6ml of HC-110. Make sure it’s 20 degrees
2) Agitate for 5 mins. 10 second at the start then waut for 1 min. Then agitate for 10 seconds after 30 sec?
3) Pour our developer
4) Water bath. Twice? Agitae for 30 sec
5) 293ml of fixer. Agitate for 5 mins. Same rules as for develop
6) Pour out fixer.
7) Water bath. Once. Agitate for 30 sec.
8 ) Dry
1) Mix 293ml of Water + 6ml of HC-110. Make sure it’s 20 degrees
2) Agitate for 5 mins. 10 second at the start then waut for 1 min. Then agitate for 10 seconds after 30 sec?
3) Pour our developer
4) Water bath. Twice? Agitae for 30 sec
5) 293ml of fixer. Agitate for 5 mins. Same rules as for develop
6) Pour out fixer.
7) Water bath. Once. Agitate for 30 sec.
8 ) Dry
Dwig
Well-known
FOR ONE ROLL – HP5+
1) Mix 293ml of Water + 6ml of HC-110. Make sure it’s 20 degrees
2) Agitate for 5 mins. 10 second at the start then waut for 1 min. Then agitate for 10 seconds after 30 sec?
3) Pour our developer
4) Water bath. Twice? Agitae for 30 sec
5) 293ml of fixer. Agitate for 5 mins. Same rules as for develop
6) Pour out fixer.
7) Water bath. Once. Agitate for 30 sec.
8 ) Dry
#7 is way, way too short, should be 5-10 minutes. It would be adequate if you were going to dry, scan, and dispose of the negs, but without a full wash the negs will not last very long. Also, all water baths/rinses and the fixer should be exactly the same temperature as the developer.
jusxusfanatic
Well-known
#7 is way, way too short, should be 5-10 minutes. It would be adequate if you were going to dry, scan, and dispose of the negs, but without a full wash the negs will not last very long. Also, all water baths/rinses and the fixer should be exactly the same temperature as the developer.
Yep I'm aware of the temperatures
Dwig
Well-known
Yep I'm aware of the temperaturesSo step 7 should be at least 5 minutes long. I should keep agitating for that step right? Thanks for the info btw
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If you can, you should use continuously running water for the wash. My procedure was always to fill the tank, drain, fill again. I would then remove the lid while the tank was still full and insert a hose to provide a slow stream of water.
The two tank fills were with tempered water. The water from the hose was generally as close to my target temp as practical, but a modest difference won't cause problems as the temp change is slow when using this method.
Bill Clark
Veteran
I use the Ilford method for washing film.
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/assets/20154231237291446.pdf
We have pretty good water here. Water quality maybe a variable for using this method.
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/assets/20154231237291446.pdf
We have pretty good water here. Water quality maybe a variable for using this method.
jim_jm
Well-known
For step 4, some folks use stop bath, some use water only. I prefer stop bath as it immediately neutralizes the action of the developer and can extend the life of your fixer.Yep I'm aware of the temperaturesSo step 7 should be at least 5 minutes long. I should keep agitating for that step right? Thanks for the info btw
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You want a continuous flow of water for your final rinse, agitation isn't as critical here. I use a Paterson film washer hose and leave the film on the reel in the tank. Alternatively, some folks fill the tank with fresh water and dump about 5-10 times in 5 mins.
I would highly recommend some sort of Hypo Wash, just prior to your final wash:
7) Drain Fixer
8) Open tank and rinse in running water for 1 min
9) Fill tank with (Kodak) Hypo Clearing Agent (1:4 mixed from stock). Total time 2 mins, agitate for first 30 sec then agitate for 5 sec every 30 sec.
10) Final rinse in running water at least 5 mins.
11) Wetting agent like Photo-Flo, immerse film for 30 sec. For this final step I mix the wetting agent with distilled water, to ensure there are no sediments left on the film, like those that are often found in tap water.
12) Hang film to dry. No need to squeegee or touch the film at all. The film should dry in a few hours.
The reason for the Hypo Wash is this helps to eliminate any traces of fixer from the film and shortens your wash times. Residual fixer on your film will eventually lead to stains and deterioration of the image.
It sounds like a lot of steps, but pretty soon you'll (almost) be able to do it with your eyes closed. Be consistent with your methods and don't try any alternative materials/methods until you feel comfortable with one routine. Stick to a few different films and chemicals and you'll soon know what to expect from them.
Good Luck!
Dwig
Well-known
I use the Ilford method for washing film.
http://www.ilfordphoto.com/assets/20154231237291446.pdf
We have pretty good water here. Water quality maybe a variable for using this method.
With standard SS tanks, that is still over 2 gallons per roll. Less than my old "slow stream" when doing single rolls, but not by a whole lot. It could total more water usage with larger multiroll tanks, I probably ran around 4-5 gallons during a wash, which for me was typically more like 10 minutes. It was the same amount of water regardless of tanks size, with the exception of the two tempered fills. With a 4 reel tank, it would use less water than Ilford's method.
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