Diafine difference?

colinh

colinh

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Yet another diafine post...

So, mine arrived (ages ago) - I'm still trying to figure out how to open the tins :D

Anyway, before I start, how do low speed films (Acros, APX 100, FP4+) exposed at 200 and developed in diafine compare with the same films shot at their nominal speed and developed in something conventional (in my case Ilford DD-X or Rodinal 1+50).

... only one way to find out - ask here :)

colin
 
Colin,

One thing to note is that Diafine does not treat all films the same way. It was designed almost specifically for TXT. So you can get 1250-1600 out of TXT, but that doesn't mean you can get the same out of HP5 or NP400, other 400 speed films.

just a heads up,
allan
 
Generally they will be flatter negatives with more grain. Different films behave in different ways, but usually you can double box speed. I like FP4 at 250 and Pan F at 100 in diafine. Tri-X is an exception in that it can be rated 1200-1600 with usable results. haven't tried the other films you mention.

Diafine is not supposed to work very well with T grain films like TMax and Delta but I have never tried it.
 
I've been trying out HP5+ in Diafine at the recommended ei of 800 and so far I'm really impressed. Haven't tried proper printing yet, only scanning. This one's scanned at 2400 dpi and it looks really smooth...
 

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ITD said:
I've been trying out HP5+ in Diafine at the recommended ei of 800 and so far I'm really impressed. Haven't tried proper printing yet, only scanning. This one's scanned at 2400 dpi and it looks really smooth...
Click to expand...

Yes, that does look pretty good.

"Flat, with more grain" - well, I suppose that was to be expected :)

I can see the flatness in ITD's picture - tried applying a fairly mild S-curve in PS.

Don't see any grain though. Could you post a cropped section (e.g. of face & hair) at 100 % (i.e. 900x900 actual pixels, highest jpeg quality with less than 300 kb) ?

Anyone have any recommendations for the "best" ISO 100/125 film to use with diafine? I'll see if I can shoot a roll each of APX 100, FP4+ and Acros tomorrow :)

colin

BEFORE:
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AFTER:
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I just started using Diafine in the last couple of weeks. So far I've tried:

APX400 @ 500 (actually Arista II, but it's the same stuff)
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and Tri-X @ 1600



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I've shot T-Max 400@640 but that still has to be souped. My next go round with Tri-X will be at 1250 instead of 1600. A friend loves Acros @ 200 in Diafine.
 
OK, I don't like the Tri-X at 1600 or the Delta 3200, but the FP4+ at 250 and APX400 at 500 (what made you choose 500???) look pretty good.

I'm really looking forward to trying this tomorrow :)

colin

PS. Nobody has told me how to open the tins yet. I have a degree, but it had nothing to do with opening tins :(
 
colinh said:
Could you post a cropped section (e.g. of face & hair) at 100 % (i.e. 900x900 actual pixels, highest jpeg quality with less than 300 kb) ?
Click to expand...

Certainly, see attached. I like the look of your version, btw - I'll have to try to learn about curves!
 

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colinh said:
PS. Nobody has told me how to open the tins yet. I have a degree, but it had nothing to do with opening tins :(
Click to expand...

Mine came in plastic tubs with screw-on lids - there was a paper-based seal underneath to stop the contents flying out.
 
I actually like Tmax 100 in Diafine. Shoot it at the speed recommended on the Diafine box, IE160.
 

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Two shots from fuji neopan 400 shot at box speed, developed in the same tank as the 1600. Taken with a Contax G2 planar 45mm f2.
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colinh said:
...Nobody has told me how to open the tins yet. I have a degree, but it had nothing to do with opening tins :(
Click to expand...
Colin, I use a "church key", which is the old-fashioned way to open a can of beer before there were pop-tops. :D Or you could use some other kind of can-opener... wash it afterward of course, and I use a bit of warm water in the emptied can to get the last of the precious powder into the mix.

PS: That bus-stop photo looks really blown-out, Steamer; something wrong there...
 
Doug said:
PS: That bus-stop photo looks really blown-out, Steamer; something wrong there...
Click to expand...

The roll of neopan 400 was mostly shot in bright sunlight and I found many pictures were blown out and otherwise missing detail. wondering if shooting at a higher iso would help or if I should develop my neopan 400 in something else.
 
steamer said:
The roll of neopan 400 was mostly shot in bright sunlight and I found many pictures were blown out and otherwise missing detail. wondering if shooting at a higher iso would help or if I should develop my neopan 400 in something else.
Click to expand...

Well, the first shot is totally blown out, so I guess the negative is very dark, which means overexposed and/or overdeveloped.

The Massive Dev Chart says to expose it as 640. So try that for starters :)

colin
 
Doug said:
Colin, I use a "church key", which is the old-fashioned way to open a can of beer before there were pop-tops. :D Or you could use some other kind of can-opener... wash it afterward of course, and I use a bit of warm water in the emptied can to get the last of the precious powder into the mix.
QUOTE]

I was reluctant to use a food can opener :) I'll use my swiss army knife.

colin
Click to expand...
 
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