andy_v
Established
I'm especially interested in 25/2.8 behavior.
Thank you.
Thank you.
tokyoshooter
Established
I have not tried the 25mm, but the 21mm f4.5 works fine. I have a few sample shots here:
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjwpJAmd
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjwpJAmd
Kawabatnam
Established
I have not tried the 25mm, but the 21mm f4.5 works fine. I have a few sample shots here:
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjwpJAmd
At first it looks much better than on r-d1, especially vignetting-wise. Then I noticed a disturbing lot of moiré in the first picture of that set of yours -the (Tokyo?) cityscape. Are those photographs direct jpgs? Would the raw files be any different?
tokyoshooter
Established
On that first Tokyo shot, I think it's because of my post processing. Here's a link to another full resolution shot - it seems that moiré is reasonably well controlled given the absence of an AA filter. (image converted to JPEG from RAW)
http://flic.kr/p/auqdNt
http://flic.kr/p/auqdNt
Kawabatnam
Established
Thanks, so this is what raw files can output. Since the gxr raw files are dng, I guess no specific raw converter is bundled with the camera, so the moiré treatment will depend on existing softwares.On that first Tokyo shot, I think it's because of my post processing. Here's a link to another full resolution shot - it seems that moiré is reasonably well controlled given the absence of an AA filter. (image converted to JPEG from RAW)
http://flic.kr/p/auqdNt
I'm quite interested in the gxr, because both my r-d1 and r-d1s are dying (a shame!), but I am bit put off by this moiré thing (even in that latter photograph): I'm pretty sure they show up in print and frankly I have yet to see the theoretical resolution advantage of the lack of low-pass filter in all the gxr sample images so far.
This advantage is definitively there for the medium format though for the aps-c format I am not so sure...
andrewteee
Established
I'm using the C Sonnar 50/1.5. Good results and that C Sonnar look. I'm on a quest to get close to what I was getting with film on the Ikon. Getting closer.
The peaking focus really helps with the shallow DoF at f/1.5.
The peaking focus really helps with the shallow DoF at f/1.5.
dreilly
Chillin' in Geneva
I'm using the 25mm and 50 planar. Nothing to post yet though, they're too new. So far I like what I see but I haven't gotten used to either lens yet.
zwarte_kat
Well-known
Just went to a trip with the zeiss 50mm Sonnar and my new 28mm Biogon:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rudyshots/sets/72157627879056338/
Mostly, I used the Biogon during the day and switched to the Sonnar at night. I am very happy with my Biogon in particular.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rudyshots/sets/72157627879056338/
Mostly, I used the Biogon during the day and switched to the Sonnar at night. I am very happy with my Biogon in particular.
kzphoto
Well-known
I have used the 21/4.5 with great results. My only gripe is that the adjustments you make (color shifting in the corners, vignetting, etc) are applied to the JPG only and not the DNG.
Cornerfix seems to alleviate these issues, I just need to make a better profile or two.

Verve, Seabright -- Santa Cruz, CA by kzamani, on Flickr

Flags -- Capitola, CA by kzamani, on Flickr
Cornerfix seems to alleviate these issues, I just need to make a better profile or two.

Verve, Seabright -- Santa Cruz, CA by kzamani, on Flickr

Flags -- Capitola, CA by kzamani, on Flickr
Archiver
Veteran
I have used the 21/2.8, 25/2.8, 28/2.8, and 50/1.5 on the M-module. All of them work really well with minimal if any vignetting or corner colour. I particularly like the 50/1.5 Sonnar on the M-module as the rendering and bokeh are gorgeous, and TTL focusing means that focus shift at f1.5 is no longer an issue.
zwarte_kat
Well-known
Evf
Evf
Do you find that the EVF helps with focussing the Sonnar? So far I haven't bought it, and am focussing with the back screen. At 1.5 it's sometimes tricky to get perfect focus, although I guess the must be hard regardless at non-posed, moving subject situations.
Evf
I have used the 21/2.8, 25/2.8, 28/2.8, and 50/1.5 on the M-module. All of them work really well with minimal if any vignetting or corner colour. I particularly like the 50/1.5 Sonnar on the M-module as the rendering and bokeh are gorgeous, and TTL focusing means that focus shift at f1.5 is no longer an issue.
Do you find that the EVF helps with focussing the Sonnar? So far I haven't bought it, and am focussing with the back screen. At 1.5 it's sometimes tricky to get perfect focus, although I guess the must be hard regardless at non-posed, moving subject situations.
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Archiver
Veteran
The EVF does help with focusing, but for me what really helps is the magnify function. Add those together and it get a lot easier.
For me, learning to focus with the peaking function is a skill like any other. It is different from split screen or RF focusing in that the look of the image itself changes, rather than going blurry or moving about. I have found that focusing with the Sonnar is actually easier than with the wider angle lenses, particularly for the 25-28 range.
Ironically the shallow depth of field of the Sonnar makes it much easier to see what is in focus and what is not, whereas with a wide angle lens the whole scene can shimmer and you won't know exactly what is in best focus.
For me, learning to focus with the peaking function is a skill like any other. It is different from split screen or RF focusing in that the look of the image itself changes, rather than going blurry or moving about. I have found that focusing with the Sonnar is actually easier than with the wider angle lenses, particularly for the 25-28 range.
Ironically the shallow depth of field of the Sonnar makes it much easier to see what is in focus and what is not, whereas with a wide angle lens the whole scene can shimmer and you won't know exactly what is in best focus.
Devid
Newbie
Devid
Newbie
hjbyeo
Member
I have used the 21/4.5 with great results. My only gripe is that the adjustments you make (color shifting in the corners, vignetting, etc) are applied to the JPG only and not the DNG.
Love this brilliant little lens. Not the f-stop that ppl will bat an eyelid, but solid performer ... corner to corner resolution is one, and it's really really sharp!
Care to share what's your settings for the Color adjustments?
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kzphoto
Well-known
Love this brilliant little lens. Not the f-stop that ppl will bat an eyelid, but solid performer ... corner to corner resolution is one, and it's really really sharp!
Care to share what's your settings for the Color adjustments?
When I have the camera in front of me again I will make a note. I have resorted to using corner fix for the time being. It actually works on the DNG files.
scho
Well-known
Two shots with the 35mm f/2.8 C Biogon on the GXR-M.


scho
Well-known
One more with the Zeiss 35 C Biogon.
Roots & Stones
Roots & Stones

jvr
Well-known
I don't have the 25/2.8, but...
I have the ZM 21/2.8 and it works great with the A12M. In fact, it's my best digital "M" body for it, on IQ alone.
On the Epson RD1s it vignettes, on the Leica M8 it produces cyan corners with the IR filter. On both the GF1 and the GH1 it's a no-brainer to use the Lumix 20/1.7: much smaller, lighter and IQ is on par (if not better) on the MFT sensor. On such a small, hirez sensor, lens resolution is really important and I think the Panasonic (Leica?) people decided to compromise other stuff that can be corrected on camera to get that amazing resolution (stuff like distortion: ever opened a GH1/FG1 RAW file on RPP? Lens distortion is shocking on the otherwise excellent 14/2.5!!!).
On the ohter hand, the 21/2.8 feels a bit big and heavy on the GXR. It's as big (if not bigger) than my beloved 28/2 Cron Asph and it feels a bit unbalaced on the GXR, at least for me.
The GXR feels perfect (in terms of size and weight) with lenses such as the CV 14/4.5, or the Konica 35/2 UC-Hexanon or, even better, the CV 25/4 Heliar M. Which, BTW, I am liking a lot on the GXR: the high-ISO performance is more than adequate to use the 25/4 indoors. Outdoors, is just wonderful as carry-everywhere lens.
So, size and weight are my only (slight) reservations about the great ZM 21/2.8 when paired with the GXR.
My point; if the GXR A12M works so well with the ZM 21/2.8 and with the CV 25/4, it will probably work as well with the ZM 25/2.8...
I have the ZM 21/2.8 and it works great with the A12M. In fact, it's my best digital "M" body for it, on IQ alone.
On the Epson RD1s it vignettes, on the Leica M8 it produces cyan corners with the IR filter. On both the GF1 and the GH1 it's a no-brainer to use the Lumix 20/1.7: much smaller, lighter and IQ is on par (if not better) on the MFT sensor. On such a small, hirez sensor, lens resolution is really important and I think the Panasonic (Leica?) people decided to compromise other stuff that can be corrected on camera to get that amazing resolution (stuff like distortion: ever opened a GH1/FG1 RAW file on RPP? Lens distortion is shocking on the otherwise excellent 14/2.5!!!).
On the ohter hand, the 21/2.8 feels a bit big and heavy on the GXR. It's as big (if not bigger) than my beloved 28/2 Cron Asph and it feels a bit unbalaced on the GXR, at least for me.
The GXR feels perfect (in terms of size and weight) with lenses such as the CV 14/4.5, or the Konica 35/2 UC-Hexanon or, even better, the CV 25/4 Heliar M. Which, BTW, I am liking a lot on the GXR: the high-ISO performance is more than adequate to use the 25/4 indoors. Outdoors, is just wonderful as carry-everywhere lens.
So, size and weight are my only (slight) reservations about the great ZM 21/2.8 when paired with the GXR.
My point; if the GXR A12M works so well with the ZM 21/2.8 and with the CV 25/4, it will probably work as well with the ZM 25/2.8...
jvr
Well-known
Well, I haven't posted for a while and noticed that my signature is a bit out of date regarding what I am using (at the moment...). Note to self: update signature, as I have been using the Ricoh GXR and RRF deserves to know... 
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