roscoetuff
Well-known
So I'm looking over at the new Photrio site and seems as if a fair number of folks are developing with Jobos. Convenience... I suppose. I bought a Uniroller for a roll-your-won agitator... but I've just not bothered to figure out how to get it up and running. Results are fine by hand.
But I thought it might be curious to see if we polled the group - for all those times we don't do "Stand Development" (in which case the choice of agitation once a day or other isn't relevant), how do we agitate our film tanks?
So here's a poll. I'm going to flesh out a few other choices for agitation by hand - if you have the patience. Thanks folks!
But I thought it might be curious to see if we polled the group - for all those times we don't do "Stand Development" (in which case the choice of agitation once a day or other isn't relevant), how do we agitate our film tanks?
So here's a poll. I'm going to flesh out a few other choices for agitation by hand - if you have the patience. Thanks folks!
Stirred, not shaken. 
I don't find it inconvenient to do the agitation by hand...
I don't find it inconvenient to do the agitation by hand...Blaidd_Drwgg
Member
Standard in our lab at uni is first 30s continuous agitation, then twice per minute. That is what everyone is taught at first. For special (compensating/acutance) developers I use once per minute. Still first 30s for mixing though.
Uni developer is D-76. At the moment I use FX-39 with Pan-F/FP4+. Xtol/Tri-X is what I will try next for Autumn/Winter. What agitation would be good for that?
E: Forgot the other important part. Agitation means turning the Jobo over slowly two times and tapping it on the sink.
Uni developer is D-76. At the moment I use FX-39 with Pan-F/FP4+. Xtol/Tri-X is what I will try next for Autumn/Winter. What agitation would be good for that?
E: Forgot the other important part. Agitation means turning the Jobo over slowly two times and tapping it on the sink.
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Ronald M
Veteran
Jobo set up takes time. Worth it for color film and the precision is high.
Decades ago I did E6 in a waterbath , 6 open tanks in the dark with a lifting rod. Every roll was always perfect. Kodak 6 step. 3 step is inferior.
Nikor tanks & reels I have owned for 60 years best for black and white.
Decades ago I did E6 in a waterbath , 6 open tanks in the dark with a lifting rod. Every roll was always perfect. Kodak 6 step. 3 step is inferior.
Nikor tanks & reels I have owned for 60 years best for black and white.
Ronald M
Veteran
D76 is the best all round developer. 5 sec/5 inversions every 30 sec. Continuous for 30 sec on immersion.
Kodak publication for B&W film tells all and it is perfect if you have a perfect thermometer.
Ko.Fe.
Lenses 35/21 Gears 46/20
No way I'll waste space for Jobo countertop dishwasher. My tiny, made in Germany, metal developing tank isn't really tank, but cup.
And classic agitation is every 30 seconds.
And classic agitation is every 30 seconds.
airfrogusmc
Veteran
It depends on the film and developer being used. Some films like t max have thick emulsion bases and require more agitation. So with rodinal I would do 5 inversions ever 30 sec but tri-x with say HC 110 I would do 5 every minute. I always liked metal tanks and metal reals and did it by hand. Even did some dip and dunk in total darkness. Sheet film 4X5 and 8X10 in trays.
dof
Fiat Lux
The Jobo brought a consistency to 35mm, roll and sheet film development that I didn't find using hand agitation methods. After using the thing for 18 years, I guess I just don't question whether it's the best way or not. It just works so I keep using it.
Blaidd_Drwgg
Member
No such thing. But I already wisened up and now always use the same thermometer.
Ronald M
Veteran
It does not have to be correct to the last fraction of a degree, just repeatable.
I have a Kodak Process one used only to check the dial ones I actually use. Then I inherited a second process one and it is off from the first.
History of it is unknown, but one or both is out of the stated tolerance of 1/4 degree. I know mine was treated well and hung vertically all the time.
The key here you need a home standard because they can not be sent to the American bureau of Standards for checking.
I own gage blocks for my micrometer and other measuring tools for same reason. Keep them within reason
How about the scales for measuring developer components? Uless jou buy the stuff in a bottle or bag.
shawn
Veteran
For B&W I either use a Uniroller for typical development but have lately been developing stand with almost no agitation.
For color I was using the Uniroller but switched to inversions due to leakage as well as being able to keep the tank in a tempered water bath.
Shawn
For color I was using the Uniroller but switched to inversions due to leakage as well as being able to keep the tank in a tempered water bath.
Shawn
Nokton48
Veteran
I've always used steel tanks like most here, I have quite an accumulation.
Several years ago I bought JOBO 2500 Multitanks 5 and 6, using them now on Unicolor Unirollers for B&W. I can process eight rolls of 120 B&W at a go in the Multitank 6 in one run. With replenished Legacy Mic-X, dev times are extremely long, up to twenty-five minutes for my tastes. That is a long time to invert a tank! Like Calzone, I guess I am a lazy slacker!
The Bonus with the JOBO is that I can process eighteen sheets of 6.5x9cm cut film in one go! Also 9x12cm and 4x5. Expensive but very versatile system.
Several years ago I bought JOBO 2500 Multitanks 5 and 6, using them now on Unicolor Unirollers for B&W. I can process eight rolls of 120 B&W at a go in the Multitank 6 in one run. With replenished Legacy Mic-X, dev times are extremely long, up to twenty-five minutes for my tastes. That is a long time to invert a tank! Like Calzone, I guess I am a lazy slacker!
The Bonus with the JOBO is that I can process eighteen sheets of 6.5x9cm cut film in one go! Also 9x12cm and 4x5. Expensive but very versatile system.
Nokton48
Veteran
Here I have modified a JOBO 120/220 reel, to take the wider 70mm B&W film. Now now I can process short lengths of 70mm film in my Multitank 6. On the left end, is a JOBO 16mm reel.
Jobo 2502 70mm Reel Modification by Nokton48, on Flickr
You can't do this with steel tanks.
Jobo 2502 70mm Reel Modification by Nokton48, on FlickrYou can't do this with steel tanks.
PRJ
Another Day in Paradise
I have JOBO tanks for black and white, Kindermann SS tanks for color and a JOBO drum for 4x5. I have some bigger drums too, but I don't use them.
Everything is done by hand except for the 4x5 which is put on a Beseler Color roller base.
Rodinal is agitated every 30 seconds to minimize adjacency effects. Pyrocat ever minute. I agitate relatively gently to prevent surge marks and whack the tank to prevent bubbles.
I guess what I am saying is I would mark "all the above" on your poll if it was there.
Everything is done by hand except for the 4x5 which is put on a Beseler Color roller base.
Rodinal is agitated every 30 seconds to minimize adjacency effects. Pyrocat ever minute. I agitate relatively gently to prevent surge marks and whack the tank to prevent bubbles.
I guess what I am saying is I would mark "all the above" on your poll if it was there.
Darshan
Well-known
Hand agitation - 1 every 30 secs, chose 1 every min as the former option is not available.
pmviewcam
Member
B&W development
B&W development
Jobo CPP2 for nearly 30 years. PMK Pyro, 2/4/100, 11 minutes,, for sheet film; Rodinal 1/50, 12 minutes for 120 and 35mm. I get good clean negatives with Rodinal, and a good stain with the PMK (contact printing in salt and Ziatype) . Stand development in Rodinal, 1/300, for around two and a half hours, for ortho film.
Cheers, Peter.
B&W development
Jobo CPP2 for nearly 30 years. PMK Pyro, 2/4/100, 11 minutes,, for sheet film; Rodinal 1/50, 12 minutes for 120 and 35mm. I get good clean negatives with Rodinal, and a good stain with the PMK (contact printing in salt and Ziatype) . Stand development in Rodinal, 1/300, for around two and a half hours, for ortho film.
Cheers, Peter.
michaelwj
----------------
Hand agitation.
One inversion per second, typically 10 seconds every minute, but it varies depending on film and developer.
I tried the stirrer once and had uneven development. Inversions from then on.
One inversion per second, typically 10 seconds every minute, but it varies depending on film and developer.
I tried the stirrer once and had uneven development. Inversions from then on.
Dogman
Veteran
Same here.
ChrisPlatt
Thread Killer
I have been using roll film daylight developing tanks since high school forty years ago.
Even at my peak usage I was never interested in developing more than two rolls simultaneously.
Consequently I have never been interested in motorized bases.
They might be a convenience but also seem like they'd be an unnecessary complication to me;
i.e. more hardware, more energy use, more noise, more to malfunction etc.
Chris
Even at my peak usage I was never interested in developing more than two rolls simultaneously.
Consequently I have never been interested in motorized bases.
They might be a convenience but also seem like they'd be an unnecessary complication to me;
i.e. more hardware, more energy use, more noise, more to malfunction etc.
Chris
roscoetuff
Well-known
Agree with Chris... and others that the machine approach... well... I'm paused on the whole of it.
As to "classic" agitation every 30 seconds, Ilford's datasheets recommend "4 inversions (10-seconds) every minute". Not sure it makes that much difference. But it's my routine for Perceptol. I've not ventured everywhere, but I suppose every 30 seconds involves fewer inversions for similar effect.
Again, the whole of this is very helpful for a relative newby to see what others are actually doing as a guide. Thank you!
As to "classic" agitation every 30 seconds, Ilford's datasheets recommend "4 inversions (10-seconds) every minute". Not sure it makes that much difference. But it's my routine for Perceptol. I've not ventured everywhere, but I suppose every 30 seconds involves fewer inversions for similar effect.
Again, the whole of this is very helpful for a relative newby to see what others are actually doing as a guide. Thank you!