Do you use contrast Filter

Do you use contrast Filter

  • Yes?

    Votes: 28 40.6%
  • No?

    Votes: 10 14.5%
  • Sometimes

    Votes: 31 44.9%

  • Total voters
    69
  • Poll closed .
W/Monochrom: almost always use a green or yellow/green filter during the day, sometimes a yellow filter (medium or dark). Never use a colored filter at night.
 
I use a light yellow nearly always with Pan B&W films. Sometimes I'll bump it up to an orange, but very rarely. With Ortho film no filter.
 
Yes & Sometimes are really the same answer, because I don't think anybody would always use filters - no? Anyway, I use yellow-green for a lot of landscapes, but other filters only occasionally...
 
I've a B+W 022 yellow in the mail and will give it a try to control the highlights on the MM rather than underexposing -1/3, following advice from Cal.
 
I understand the yes could be the same as sometimes. But yes here would mean
100% of the time with maybe an exemption for night shots. I see not any red filters. That's surprising as I would think it would render higher contrast and that appears to be the in thing now.
Thanks for your time and sharing.
 
I keep meaning to put to use the yellow filter that came with my Mamiya 7. Sometimes a little more contrast would be welcome when shooting slower film, however with the advent of hybrid work-flows, controlling contrast in the scanned image has become much easier.

I don't imagine any digital shooter (apart from Monochrom users) really have need for colour filters any more.







.
 
I use orange filter quite often. I'm not so much after increased contrast but I like to darken the sky a little. You need to learn by trial and error when and how to use it. I also might use a polarizer for the same reason (yes, with b&w).

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I use a light yellow nearly always with Pan B&W films. Sometimes I'll bump it up to an orange, but very rarely. With Ortho film no filter.

+1...I always use them with b&w film. I shoot panchromatic films and have yet to try an ortho emulsion.
 
Even when I haven't got a yellow or orange filter on my lenses, I will have a UV filter on the front... just because, you know, you should always use protection.
 
On all rangefinders I tend to use a 2X yellow (B&W 22 MRC) the most with an occassional orn/red B&W 40 or 41. I like having the contrast on the negative rather than add it in the darkroom. I like the more 3-D look of clouds and texture in my skies. Also know that I am lazy and my goal is to make negatives that can be straight printed. Know that my small format negatives have medium format qualities, and someone who shoots large format once said about some of my 6x9 negatives,"With negatives like these you don't need a 4x5."

Steve H. from the New York Meet-Up says, "You can't print what's not there." This wisdom is also reinforced by Ansel Adams who is said to have almost always use a medium yellow filter on his view camera. I presume this master wanted the added contrast on the negative like me.

I'm new to digital, but I bought a Monochrom. I use the histogram that graphically displays the distribution of tones of your exposure. This is a useful tool, but inconjunction I set the clipping indicators for the highlights and the shadows both to 1% as another diagnostic for judging exposure. I did two shots of the same subject that was brightly lit: one with a filter and one without and used the histogram with the clipping indicators to gauge the difference.

Without any contrast filter the clipping was a lot in both the shadows and in the highlights, and I understand that in post you can bring out the shadows, but the information in the highlights is gone/lost. The histogram clearly indicated that information was lost and that the exposure lattitude of the sensor was being exceeded in a harsh manner.

Counter-intuitively I found that the use of filters compresses the contrast by diminishing the overall signal where clipping was moderated to the extent that both the clipping of highlights and the shadows were either vastly diminished and minimalized, or clipping simply eliminated. The resulting exposure has a more rich mid-tone that somewhat resembles the tonality of medium format, meaning enhanced mid-range. If this exposure is too midrange rich additional contrast can be added later in post.

The histogram does not lie, clipping is clearly a loss of information, I think the use of filters adds detail and information, and like Steve H. said, "You can't print what's not there." I say there is a more organic rendering when contrast is controlled my way rather than in post; and to me because I'm a slacker, it is just easier to control contrast onto the sensor upon exposure.

Like I said the histogram don't lie. BTW on SLR's I use polorizers extensively for contrast control. Also know that I found that the MRC or hard coated versions of filters not only stay cleaner, they are also easier to clean. Well worth any premium IMHO.

Cal
 
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