Aaron Hellman
Member
I have several battery-operated film cameras that I have not used for several years. I took the batteries out before storing them, so no leakage issues. I would now like to use the cameras, or at least see if they are still working. Other than installing fresh batteries, is there anything else I should do before shooting a roll of film? I assume I should dry fire the shutter a few times. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!
raydm6
Yay! Cameras! 🙈🙉🙊┌( ಠ_ಠ)┘ [◉"]
I assume the batteries are for the meter and not camera operation - film advance/rewind etc.?
Yes, re-familiarizing yourself and exercising the camera is good and for me - because I own so many vintage cameras - I re-read or scan the manual if I need a refresher on how to reload and operate it as some are a bit idiosyncratic.
When you finally load the film, and operate the camera, make sure you have visual indication that the film is winding properly - usually rotation and resistance on film re-wind crank/knob or some other visual indicator depending on the camera.
Yes, re-familiarizing yourself and exercising the camera is good and for me - because I own so many vintage cameras - I re-read or scan the manual if I need a refresher on how to reload and operate it as some are a bit idiosyncratic.
When you finally load the film, and operate the camera, make sure you have visual indication that the film is winding properly - usually rotation and resistance on film re-wind crank/knob or some other visual indicator depending on the camera.
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
For any camera that I've not used in a while or for an old used camera that I've bought, one thing I do is check for shutter capping and, with lenses, I check whether the aperture blades operate quickly.
Shutter capping is where the timed gap between the first and second curtain disappears. You get either a blank frame or partial frame.
To check for shutter capping, I do this:
- select the highest shutter speed
- remove the lens
- open the back
- aim the camera at a bright diffuse object (white wall, open sky - actually, what's best is a long horizontal fluorescent light)
- looking through the back, trip the shutter - you should see light from one end to the other along the entire film gate; if you see this at the highest speed, it's a safe bet that slower speeds don't cap either
On many lenses, such as Pentax and Nikon, you can simply manually actuate the aperture at the back of the lens to check whether they are sluggish. Other lenses require them to be mounted on the camera and triggered by the camera in order to actuate the aperture blades.
To check aperture blades in sync with camera operation , I do this:
- mount the lens and set the aperture to its smallest opening (such as f/16 or f/22)
- select the sync speed or higher
- open the back
- aim the camera at a bright diffuse object
- looking through the back, trip the shutter - you should see the aperture blades at their minimal setting - if the blades are sluggish (due to lubricant) the aperture will be too wide
Other things I do:
I check the self-timer. Some people don't do this because a faulty self-timer can jam the camera. I take the risk because I like to use self-timers.
I wind and trip the shutter, looking at the curtains, to check for holes or damage.
Some of my cameras have selenium meters or have meters which now require a substitute battery. Consequently, sometimes I have to select an ISO different from what the film speed is in order to produce proper exposures. For this, I have a "test area" where I check my meter and batteries - I know that when the lights are on in this room and I aim the camera so that the countertop fills the frame, I should expect an exposure of 1/30 at f/5.6 for ISO 200.
Shutter capping is where the timed gap between the first and second curtain disappears. You get either a blank frame or partial frame.
To check for shutter capping, I do this:
- select the highest shutter speed
- remove the lens
- open the back
- aim the camera at a bright diffuse object (white wall, open sky - actually, what's best is a long horizontal fluorescent light)
- looking through the back, trip the shutter - you should see light from one end to the other along the entire film gate; if you see this at the highest speed, it's a safe bet that slower speeds don't cap either
On many lenses, such as Pentax and Nikon, you can simply manually actuate the aperture at the back of the lens to check whether they are sluggish. Other lenses require them to be mounted on the camera and triggered by the camera in order to actuate the aperture blades.
To check aperture blades in sync with camera operation , I do this:
- mount the lens and set the aperture to its smallest opening (such as f/16 or f/22)
- select the sync speed or higher
- open the back
- aim the camera at a bright diffuse object
- looking through the back, trip the shutter - you should see the aperture blades at their minimal setting - if the blades are sluggish (due to lubricant) the aperture will be too wide
Other things I do:
I check the self-timer. Some people don't do this because a faulty self-timer can jam the camera. I take the risk because I like to use self-timers.
I wind and trip the shutter, looking at the curtains, to check for holes or damage.
Some of my cameras have selenium meters or have meters which now require a substitute battery. Consequently, sometimes I have to select an ISO different from what the film speed is in order to produce proper exposures. For this, I have a "test area" where I check my meter and batteries - I know that when the lights are on in this room and I aim the camera so that the countertop fills the frame, I should expect an exposure of 1/30 at f/5.6 for ISO 200.
CMur12
Veteran
My impression is that Aaron, the OP, is referring to cameras with electronic shutters, as they have been around since the early-to-mid 1970s. I have a couple of Minolta X570s with quartz-timed shutter speeds, though the cameras are still manual focus.
The timing of the shutters is electronic, unlike mechanical shutters with clockwork timing that can become sluggish from disuse. As such, an electronic shutter should still be accurate unless the electronics have failed.
There is still a mechanical component to such shutter mechanisms, however, so I think some dry firing to limber it up would still be advantageous.
- Murray
The timing of the shutters is electronic, unlike mechanical shutters with clockwork timing that can become sluggish from disuse. As such, an electronic shutter should still be accurate unless the electronics have failed.
There is still a mechanical component to such shutter mechanisms, however, so I think some dry firing to limber it up would still be advantageous.
- Murray
Pál_K
Cameras. I has it.
Also check the light seals - the foam inside the tracks when you open the back. You don't want bits of disintegrating foam inside your camera.
Replacing the foam is an easy, but somewhat annoying task.
Replacing the foam is an easy, but somewhat annoying task.
Aaron Hellman
Member
Thank you to everyone. Some excellent tips here. Very much appreciated.