dmr
Registered Abuser
What's the general consensus among those here who do E6 processing whether or not to use a stabilizer (and if so, what?) after the final wash when processing E6?
I picked up an E6 chemistry kit in anticipation of processing the new Ektachrome 100 which is supposed to arrive Any Day Now.
Any thoughts?
TIA!
I picked up an E6 chemistry kit in anticipation of processing the new Ektachrome 100 which is supposed to arrive Any Day Now.
Any thoughts?
TIA!
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
I've used the Arista E-6 kits many times over the last few years and have found
the slides to be fine still . Is this use of a stabilizer a recommended procedure with the kit you have ? A cooler kept at the proper temp sure eases the process. Regards,Peter
ps: I've succeeded in getting almost 50 % more films developed then they mention with adding more time to each successive batch, YMMV
the slides to be fine still . Is this use of a stabilizer a recommended procedure with the kit you have ? A cooler kept at the proper temp sure eases the process. Regards,Peter
ps: I've succeeded in getting almost 50 % more films developed then they mention with adding more time to each successive batch, YMMV
dmr
Registered Abuser
It's not even mentioned! That surprised me. I was really more concerned about spotting than permanence, and I asked a more detailed version of the question over at Photrio (nee' APUG).
One of the true SMEs there pointed out that a formalin-based stabilizer should be used to keep the dyes of E6 from shifting over time, so that's what I'll plan to do. They have a simple formula for a stabilizer, basically Photo-Flo with a few ml of formalin in distilled H2O. That will cover both the permanence and spotting issues.
As to the quantity of film I can process, I'm not too concerned and I don't want to push it too much. For C41 I dilute and mix for one-shot use and I'll probably do the same for E6. I do know that some people report getting twice the stated number of rolls done but I would rather go for quality than economy.
HHPhoto
Well-known
That is correct. A stabilizer is needed for optimal colour permanence. As you have certainly read, this process can be implemented in the pre-bleach.
The best you can do being absolutely on the safe side is using the Fuji Hunt original 6-bath E6 process. They offer a kit for home developing.
Positive side-effect: This original E6 chemistry from the world leading photo chemistry manufacturer give you the optimal and perfect quality: Best colors, deepest blacks with highest Dmax, purest and most brilliant whites.
I've done side-by-side direct comparison tests of the Fuji Hunt kit with the Tetenal 3-bath kit (which is afaik the manufacturer of the Arista kit, too):
The Tetenal quality is very good.
But the Fuji Hunt kit quality surpasses that with a perfect quality.
Cheers, Jan
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
A bit late in returning to this subject , but where does one get formalin ? Peter
randy stewart
Established
E-6 stabilizer
E-6 stabilizer
"A bit late in returning to this subject , but where does one get formalin ? Peter"
Formalin is usually sold as a 37% solution of formaldehyde. It is commonly sold In the US by drugstores like Walgrens and by supermarket (Krogers) drug departments. It used to be open shelf stock, but because it is a poison, it's now behind the counter - ask for it.
E-6 stabilizer
"A bit late in returning to this subject , but where does one get formalin ? Peter"
Formalin is usually sold as a 37% solution of formaldehyde. It is commonly sold In the US by drugstores like Walgrens and by supermarket (Krogers) drug departments. It used to be open shelf stock, but because it is a poison, it's now behind the counter - ask for it.