BigSteveG
Well-known
Now taking a B&W printing class....considering setting my own darkroom. Everyone raves about the Focomat enlargers. Anyone here have experience w/ them? What makes them better than the other? Can I use non-LTM lenses on the Focomat? Anyone using the Jobo roto processors for negs and prints? If so, hows that working? Any caveats? What does the "lift kit" actually do? Anyhoo...just a few questions for anyone who has time and inclination to answer.....all replies greatly appreciated!!
S
Simon Larbalestier
Guest
I have two Focomats the 1c for 35mm and the 2c for both 35mm and 120. The lenses are superb - due to their design it is probably not possible to mount other lenses on the cams but i have been able to use the Focatars on my Devere 504 using flat mount panels. I prefer these enlargers over others i have used because of the single condenser they give a very crisp almost semi point source type of print very different to the smoother tonality of my cold cathode Devere light source. If i had the darkroom space i would consider also getting one of the later V35's with a multigrade head. I still use the Ilford Multigrade filters placed in the filter drawer above the light source (which is height adjustable like a point source) to make my prints time consuming and a bit fiddly but i like the results. If i had the cash i would invest in the Heiland Split Grade light source head for the Focomat. These enlargers also offer "autofocus" but i don't use this as my baseboard easels vary in height so i do it all manually. All in all great enlargers.
BigSteveG
Well-known
Simon,
Thanks for the reply. The kit that I'm looking at does come w/ a 50mm Leitz lens, but the lens is described as a bit hazy. I'm wondering if cleaning the lens would be a similar cost to a camera lens.
Thanks for the reply. The kit that I'm looking at does come w/ a 50mm Leitz lens, but the lens is described as a bit hazy. I'm wondering if cleaning the lens would be a similar cost to a camera lens.
Ronald M
Veteran
DAG cleaned one of my Focotars but cautioned against having it done before I sent it in. He feels most lived in a bad envirnment and they are harder to clean than a camera lens and offered no guarantee of sucess. I had it done and it came out so so. The inside was really really bad to start, but it was one of the large front element ones that are fairly rare but are excellent and I was already sending in some lenses. Cost was $50. Less than the camera lenses that went with it which varied in price so I can`t figure out his pricing structure. I just send my gear to him, he sends it back with a bill, I send him a check. Works for me.
I have to admit the lens came from an enlarger used at the the Chicago Tribune and was abused daily for decades. It was the filltyest lens I have ever seen by a long shot
Now I`ll tell you the the original Focotars are optimised for 5x7 prints and work sort of oK to 8x10. The large front element design was second and is a vastly superior lens with a very flat field and can be used at 4.5 and will be sharp into the corners. Focotar 2 were the last and are very very nice. I would not get excited over a first gen Focotar. I have two former and one new later. Same with the black round head enlargers. They require a short neck bullb you can no longer easily get. The egg shaped grey heads take standard bulbs. They also have slots for filters, but unless it is the very last Focomat IC Color, you will have to build your own filter carrier. I built one for each VC filter I use. Some skill required.
You also need the antinewton ring "filter" or spacer under the condenser. They were optional and are worth as much as an enlarger today.
If you work around all this, the results are superb. If you can`t, they are a pain in the ....
Tom A posted a pic of his darkroom a few weeks ago. It has a Focomat IC and IIc in it. What does that tell you?
Other lenses may or may or may not work in autofocus, but can be manually focused. There is nothing like a good Focotar though. I tried them all.
I have to admit the lens came from an enlarger used at the the Chicago Tribune and was abused daily for decades. It was the filltyest lens I have ever seen by a long shot
Now I`ll tell you the the original Focotars are optimised for 5x7 prints and work sort of oK to 8x10. The large front element design was second and is a vastly superior lens with a very flat field and can be used at 4.5 and will be sharp into the corners. Focotar 2 were the last and are very very nice. I would not get excited over a first gen Focotar. I have two former and one new later. Same with the black round head enlargers. They require a short neck bullb you can no longer easily get. The egg shaped grey heads take standard bulbs. They also have slots for filters, but unless it is the very last Focomat IC Color, you will have to build your own filter carrier. I built one for each VC filter I use. Some skill required.
You also need the antinewton ring "filter" or spacer under the condenser. They were optional and are worth as much as an enlarger today.
If you work around all this, the results are superb. If you can`t, they are a pain in the ....
Tom A posted a pic of his darkroom a few weeks ago. It has a Focomat IC and IIc in it. What does that tell you?
Other lenses may or may or may not work in autofocus, but can be manually focused. There is nothing like a good Focotar though. I tried them all.
x-ray
Veteran
The focomat 1c is an excellent enlarger. I used one for 25 years and was very pleased with it. Unfortunately I sold it five years ago and wish I had another. The AF if set properly is the only one that i've found to work properly.
Don't overlook other brands. I've also printed on Omega D series for nearly 50 years and find the Omegas to be superb. I currently use a D5 with the Ilford MG head and couldn't be more pleased. I also print my large negs on my Durst 138 enlarger. Durst pro equipment is the finest I've ever owned but the availability of parts can be a problem if you don't want to pay a premium for them. Also consider the Besseler enlarger. These are first rate machines also and quite reasonable in cost. Often you can find complete darkrooms with Durst or Omega enlargers for around $100. The lenses might need to be updated because many people bought cheap glass but even lenses are cheap now. I particularly love the Nikkor EL enlarging lenses and recently bought two in mint condition. My 50 2.8 went for $42 from B&H and a mint 105 for $19.
Don't overlook other brands. I've also printed on Omega D series for nearly 50 years and find the Omegas to be superb. I currently use a D5 with the Ilford MG head and couldn't be more pleased. I also print my large negs on my Durst 138 enlarger. Durst pro equipment is the finest I've ever owned but the availability of parts can be a problem if you don't want to pay a premium for them. Also consider the Besseler enlarger. These are first rate machines also and quite reasonable in cost. Often you can find complete darkrooms with Durst or Omega enlargers for around $100. The lenses might need to be updated because many people bought cheap glass but even lenses are cheap now. I particularly love the Nikkor EL enlarging lenses and recently bought two in mint condition. My 50 2.8 went for $42 from B&H and a mint 105 for $19.
Finder
Veteran
Another vote for other enlargers - Durst, Devere, Omega, Besseler, LPL. I would also recommend going to a larger enlarger format than just what you need now. Get a medium format or 4x5 enlarger.
Also, Rodenstock, Schneider, and Nikon all have great enlarger lenses. The modern lenses with a 6-element or more design are what you want. The four-element designs are the "economy" line. Old lenses are not coated.
I use a Jobo CPP-2. It automatically monitors the tempering bath - a feature that saves a lot of time and frustration. The lift allows you to change chemistry without removing the drum from the rotor. It is very useful for timing processing steps and staying clean. I would definately recommend you get one.
Also, Rodenstock, Schneider, and Nikon all have great enlarger lenses. The modern lenses with a 6-element or more design are what you want. The four-element designs are the "economy" line. Old lenses are not coated.
I use a Jobo CPP-2. It automatically monitors the tempering bath - a feature that saves a lot of time and frustration. The lift allows you to change chemistry without removing the drum from the rotor. It is very useful for timing processing steps and staying clean. I would definately recommend you get one.
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
I seem to have used everything but the Focomat. I'd recommend a modern LPL enlarger with M39 mount. You can use Leitz ltm enlarger lenses and modern m39 mount enlarger lenses. You'll have a colour head so multigrade and colour paper can be used without the extra purchase of filters.
Get a LPL 6700 for example, then you can use 35mm AND medium format.
Don't go for a 4x5 unless you are jumping in with both feet. Those things take LOADS of room. Trust me
Use trays to develop, it's easier that tubes/tanks when it comes to doing a lot of sheets.
Get a LPL 6700 for example, then you can use 35mm AND medium format.
Don't go for a 4x5 unless you are jumping in with both feet. Those things take LOADS of room. Trust me
Use trays to develop, it's easier that tubes/tanks when it comes to doing a lot of sheets.
BigSteveG
Well-known
as much as I like the idea of the Focomat the others seem to be pretty good. And sure the Rodenstock, Nikkor, etc lenses are great. Now Freestyle is advertising some Czech made lenses that are supposed to be very good. I'm wonder what else to lok for in an enlarging lens. I know the 500mm 2.8 is standard for the 35mm neg. How will this work w/ prints larger than 8x10? will I need a different lens for MF negs?
LazyHammock
Well-known
I have an LPL6700VCCE, it is a very nice enlarger - smooth operations and a great light source. I use Componon lenses on it. I also use an Omega D2 for 4x5, it is a big beast but very reliable.
I would not buy a hazy lens, there are plenty of relatively cheap, used, good quality newer lenses out there.
Nick
I would not buy a hazy lens, there are plenty of relatively cheap, used, good quality newer lenses out there.
Nick
S
Simon Larbalestier
Guest
You can still get parts for the Focomat enlargers from this company in Germany in fact you can get whole enlargers....
www.kienzle-phototechnik.de
I have the PDF's with the spec's if any is interested.
As for printing sizes i mounted my Focomat 1c on a shelf, re-aligned the neg, lens and baseboard planes using the zig align tool and it easily makes 20 x 24" prints.
Steve for printing 120 film 80-100mm is a good focal length and 135-150mm for 5 x 4"
www.kienzle-phototechnik.de
I have the PDF's with the spec's if any is interested.
As for printing sizes i mounted my Focomat 1c on a shelf, re-aligned the neg, lens and baseboard planes using the zig align tool and it easily makes 20 x 24" prints.
Steve for printing 120 film 80-100mm is a good focal length and 135-150mm for 5 x 4"
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Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
500mm?! I think you mean 50mm
Usually:
50mm - 35mm film
75-90mm - medium format film
135-150mm - 4x5 film
That's what I try to use anyway.
You should be fine with the same 50mm lens for larger than 8x10, but it depends how large you're going. You'll probably get vignetting on the print from using a 50mm for 6x6.
Usually:
50mm - 35mm film
75-90mm - medium format film
135-150mm - 4x5 film
That's what I try to use anyway.
You should be fine with the same 50mm lens for larger than 8x10, but it depends how large you're going. You'll probably get vignetting on the print from using a 50mm for 6x6.
BigSteveG
Well-known
Simon,
great website. The Focomats aren't any cheaper in Germany. But they do seem to be a good source.
great website. The Focomats aren't any cheaper in Germany. But they do seem to be a good source.
drewbarb
picnic like it's 1999
Get the biggest enlarger you can comfortably fit in your darkroom. As long as it's stable, bigger is better- it gives you the flexibilty to try larger negatives and print sizes. Make sure you can mount it to be rock solid- to a wall, a couter, or even just on a baseboard- make sure it's stable. Make sure it's properly aligned; and get a good consistent light source you can get along with- preferably a diffused light source, like a cold light, or better, a VC diffusion head. Finally, get good lenses, and have fun.