Fast B+W film recommendations?

Bryce

Bryce

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I've been trying to shoot musicians with available light in small local clubs, but with limited success. Between metering troubles (mostly solved by using a handheld meter) and just plain lack of light, I'd given up on it for awhile. Now I'm trying again.
So far my best luck has been with HP5 and Acufine, but more speed would really help! I'm operating at about ASA 600 or so. Any more push results in neg.s too contrasty to print.
My preference has been for more traditional looking films, but I'd consider a compromise if it means getting the shot!
 
Thanks for the super quick responses!
What to develop in? My enlarger/ paper/ developer combination ends up very sensitive to high contrast negatives... I use a condenser enlarger (Beseler 23c), Forte semi-matte fiber paper and Dektol.
 
Here is a set of concert pics on neopan 1600 shot at 1600 and developed in xtol 1:2 i believe, I crunched some of the blacks because I wanted a cleaner image but i didn't find the negatives too unmanagable. I have yet to try printing these negs as I have been astranged from the darkroom for a few months, these are scanned negs. Maybe not the best exaples of np1600 but the lighting was rather harsh red and yellow spot lights if i remember correctly...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/chaseallgood/153161815/in/set-1493283/
 
Kestas-
Those are great! I was looking at one of a woman seated at a bar, and the page says you're using an Olympus XA. Does the auto exposure really work in that little light?
 
I've heard Delta 3200 shot at 1200 or 1600 and developed at 3200. I just shot half a roll this way but haven't developed it yet. I didn't like the results from Delta 3200@3200. I'll post a sample if it turns out ok.

I've tried Neopan 1600@1600 but didn't like the results from the local lab that uses DDX. I may give it another shot now that I'm doing my own developing. Thus far the most pleasing results I've had have been from pushing HP5 to 800.
 
I was looking at one of a woman seated at a bar, and the page says you're using an Olympus XA. Does the auto exposure really work in that little light?
Click to expand...

yep, Bryce. In most cases it works. Never tried it with professional slide film, but with b/w film it works. Oly XA is a real little devil! ;)
 
In 35mm, Neopan 1600 shot at 1200 or 1600 and developed in Rodinal (yes, it does work well with this film).

For 120, I use TriX rated at 1000 and developed in Diafine.

I have read that Neopan 1600 also does OK in Diafine - I will have to give this a go myself some time.
 
TriX 400 rated at 800 in PMK Pyro works well for me as does Delta 400 @800
 
I've got a Lynx 14 which maxes out at ASA 800, should I just use 800 or Neopan 1600, but get deveolped at 800. Is there any advantage to using the latter?
 
I've recently started testing Neopan 400 pushed 1600 versus Tri-x 400tx pushed 1600. Souped in xtol 1+1, the grain is much finer in the neopan push.
 
you want to go nuts?
You want FAST film for available light in clubs?
The only issue is the actual "printing" from the negs that are extreeeeeemely thin imho - but if you scan and then print; you'll probably get what you're looking for.

http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4441&highlight=Push

Tri-X in Rodinal 1+50 for 12,800 - I've gone as high as that but the negs are thin. At 6400 it's not too bad - you have to compensate for the exposure though - Google (yes it's officially a verb now) "Tri-X Rodinal 6400" and you should find some info on what you're looking for :)

Cheers
Dave
 
The following link shows some samples of photos taken at a local club. They were all shot with 3200 Tmax with a manual exposure of 125 @ f:2.8 and developed in Xtol at the 1000 ISO times. I do check the light level with an incedent meter, however, the light level varies on stage so I shoot at the manual setting and compensate in the darkroom. Every one of these has been printed and hangs on the walls of the club.

http://tedfelton.com/loft.html

Ted
 
Great stuff. Why I failed to find the thread about Tri-x and Rodinal I don't know, but... Well, rodinal and FP4 is my usual daylight choice. I'm trying this routine with HP5 right now!
So are Tri-X and HP5 different enough to warrant separate tests?
 
Nice Work.

Nice Work.

Kestas: really liked your stuff. In a way, it's almost exactly what I'm looking for in some cases. I've done Trix @1600, but I think I'm not "using" it correctly. My lab also uses Xtol, so perhaps that could be it. Rodinal; who knew?

I probably would've done this one differently: [Tri-x @1600 in Xtol]

Guy Mann said:
I've heard Delta 3200 shot at 1200 or 1600 and developed at 3200.
Click to expand...

I'm almost doing exactly this; my weapon of choice is Delta3200 @ EI1600 with -1 stop processing [example] I'm not sure about devving at 3200, though, but i suppose that when this works, it should increase contrast while retaining some shadow detail? I'd love to see your results when you develop; I'd like a little more contrast when I can get it.


Cheers,
--joe.
 
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