Favorite film for midtones?

[furbs]

I've been using Tri-X in D-76 1+1 and mostly like it but I'm looking for a film that renders midtones differently - perhaps with more separation or contrast. Would an ISO 100 film work better? How about developer? What are your favorites?

 

[Lauffray]

I love the way HP5 renders midtones, also the defunct Neopan 1600 in D76 1+1 is just beyond words

 

[mfogiel]

Tri X in D76 is about as good as it gets - try to expose at EI 200 for better tonality. If you really are after great midtones, the only other factors I can think about would be a yellow filter and a low to medium contrast lens. Some also like this film in pyro type developers, this one is in Prescysol EF. Try a Rigid/DR Summicron 50 or Summaron 35/2.8, you should get something like this:


2008050307 by mfogiel, on Flickr

 

[Katie]

Tri-X at 200 and cut development time will give great results - especially with an orange filter! I've loves tmax done the same way - those tones are gorgeous!

 

[Anthony Harvey]

If you are willing and able to print the negatives to conventional black and white paper, such as Ilford resin-coated, using an enlarging lens, I'd urge you to try Fomapan 400. It gives very special and unique qualities to all the tones but especially to the mid greys, characteristics that I've never got with other films. I've found it superb for pictures of people but it works for all scenes. It somehow gives a sort of warm luscious quality to the grey tones, including skin tones and stone-coloured buildings. I love it. I doubt, though, that these qualities and feelings will show on scanned images on screen, so perhaps it's only useful for those who either print themselves or have their negatives printed.

 

[gsgary]

If you are willing and able to print the negatives to conventional black and white paper, such as Ilford resin-coated, using an enlarging lens, I'd urge you to try Fomapan 400. It gives very special and unique qualities to all the tones but especially to the mid greys, characteristics that I've never got with other films. I've found it superb for pictures of people but it works for all scenes. It somehow gives a sort of warm luscious quality to the grey tones, including skin tones and stone-coloured buildings. I love it. I doubt, though, that these qualities and feelings will show on scanned images on screen, so perhaps it's only useful for those who either print themselves or have their negatives printed.

I'm also a big fan of Fomapan 400

 

[DominikDUK]

The best film for midtones was Agfa APX 100 nothing could touch this film for midtones some remaining stock is still available in 35mm. One of the best developers for midtones no matter what film you use is Kodak D23 very easy to mix and great midtones are guaranteed

 

[shadowfox]

It depends on how you shoot and develop, and print.

The myth that says a particular film will automatically produce "nice" midtones (a subjective measure at best) is just that, a myth.

Please get over it and just pick a film, shoot, bracket, develop, analyze your negative, and print. Rinse and repeat until you get what you like.

No shortcuts or magic bullets, only opinions.

Okay, if you have to have an answer: Adox CMS 20 ASA 😀

 

[furbs]

It depends on how you shoot and develop, and print.

The myth that says a particular film will automatically produce "nice" midtones (a subjective measure at best) is just that, a myth.

Please get over it and just pick a film, shoot, bracket, develop, analyze your negative, and print. Rinse and repeat until you get what you like.

No shortcuts or magic bullets, only opinions.

Okay, if you have to have an answer: Adox CMS 20 ASA 😀

tl;dr - buy ADOX CMS 20 ASA. Can do!

I'm shooting mostly with my 35 Lux and scanning on a V700. Would love to do darkroom prints but my work & school schedule makes doing so impossible.

 

[rolfe]

I'm with mfogiel here -- if it is midtone separation you are after, Tri-X and D76 would be very, very hard to surpass.

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I like Ilford FP4 a lot, developed in D-76 1+1, Rodinal 1+50, or PMK Pyro

D-76 1+1

PMK

 

[hausen]

I have started using Delta 100 lately and the reason I like it is the mid tones.

 

[ChrisN]

Almost anything, but it has to be in 120 format. 😉

 

[furbs]

Almost anything, but it has to be in 120 format. 😉

What, no 4x5? 😛

 

[Monochrom]

Delicious!!!!

Tri X in D76 is about as good as it gets - try to expose at EI 200 for better tonality. If you really are after great midtones, the only other factors I can think about would be a yellow filter and a low to medium contrast lens. Some also like this film in pyro type developers, this one is in Prescysol EF. Try a Rigid/DR Summicron 50 or Summaron 35/2.8, you should get something like this:


2008050307 by mfogiel, on Flickr

 

[mdarnton]

If you have to ask the question, it's probably not the film and developer; it's how you use them.
But, I'll agree with the others: Tri-X at 200 and D76. That's what all my Flicker B&W is, if you like that.

 

[biomed]

I shoot Ilford XP2 Super. This example was shot with a Bessa R3A and CV Color Skopar 21/4. I really like the contrast and tonal qualities of this film. I usually expose it at ISO 320 or ISO 200 for a bit more contrast.

Mike

 

[Photo_Smith]

Most medium speed films with the right developer and exposure will give good tonality.

So really a better question would be which developer film combo gives good middle tones.

That said the chromagenic films give nice tonality if exposed correctly something like XP2 or this the Kodak equivalent.

Tmax films (yes I know some don't like slabs of silver and the tones) can be nice also.
Tmax 400 in Rodinal

My favourite is APX 100 in Rodinal which has great separation:

But in the end tonal range is a product of film+developer+exposure.

 

[froyd]

If you really are after great midtones, the only other factors I can think about would be a yellow filter and a low to medium contrast lens.

Tri-X at 200 and cut development time will give great results - especially with an orange filter! I've loves tmax done the same way - those tones are gorgeous!

Very surprised to head the recommendations for orange and yellow filters, which tend to increase contrast, although they sure make for pretty skies.

 

[Katie]

Very surprised to head the recommendations for orange and yellow filters, which tend to increase contrast, although they sure make for pretty skies.

I find this dependent on the lenses used, too - mamiya 7 lenses are already so contrasty and sharp that a filter sometimes is overkill!