FED 2 - worth much...?

[OMboy]

I picked up a tatty FED 2 with an Industar 26M recently and although it seems mechanically sound, I would like to give it a spruce up.

Are these particularly valuable - should I leave it tatty and just clean it as best I can...?

I was considering a complete overhaul and clean followed by replacing the body covering and touching up (or stripping and repainting) the black edge strip around the body covering.
I though about a nice piece of black leather or something to replace the covering.

Anyone else done a custom job on a FED 2 or should I leave it as is and just clean it up...?

😕

 

[radi(c)al_cam]

When a camera is "tatty", one has to be curious, whether this status comes from years in a cellar or whether a former owner has used it intensively.

If you are lucky, the latter has happened -- may I recommend you first to shoot at least one roll of film?

 

[OMboy]

Of course - good advice. I will shoot a roll first to check out light sealing and that everything is working as it should.

I was really asking if I should mess with the 'original' finish...!

Thanks

 

[payasam]

The FED-2 has considerable use value if it is working well. It does not bring much in the market. The one I have came for $20. A Ukrainian lens seller had earlier offered me one for nothing.

 

[radi(c)al_cam]

something important:

set the speed AFTER you have wound!

(changing the speed before shutter is advanced can result in a serious damage of the shutter)

an instructive video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZpZrcSnc8U

 

[batterytypehah!]

There are such things as collectible FEDs and I'm sure some more knowledgeable forum members will chime in with that info soon enough. It's unlikely you have one of those, though. Search ebay and you will see lots of inventive refinish jobs coming from Russia and Ukraine. The supply seems to be almost unlimited.

 

[micromoogman]

The Pre-series in nice condition are collectible. I like those with the full Fed name on the top plate.

 

[wolves3012]

something important:

set the speed AFTER you have wound!

(changing the speed before shutter is advanced can result in a serious damage of the shutter)

an instructive video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZpZrcSnc8U

Unless it's a VERY early one that's not actually necessary. The ones with 2-piece speed dials (where the inner shaft has a dot) are not at risk from setting the speed before cocking. That's true for all FSUs with that style of speed-dial (Zorki 2/2C/5 & 6 and the FED 2). Anyone with a collection of types is better with the habit of cocking first though!

 

[wolves3012]

I picked up a tatty FED 2 with an Industar 26M recently and although it seems mechanically sound, I would like to give it a spruce up.

Are these particularly valuable - should I leave it tatty and just clean it as best I can...?

I was considering a complete overhaul and clean followed by replacing the body covering and touching up (or stripping and repainting) the black edge strip around the body covering.
I though about a nice piece of black leather or something to replace the covering.

Anyone else done a custom job on a FED 2 or should I leave it as is and just clean it up...?

😕

As noted, unless it's a very early, pre-series type it's worth very little in money terms. As for the finish, you could maybe de-chrome and paint it if the chrome is tatty. Otherwise just tart up the paint/re-cover it or whatever.

Unless the back is damaged or a loose fit, it's unlikely to have light-leaks (not counting ratty/damaged curtains, of course)

 

[OMboy]

Thanks for the replies.

I have got a manual and read the bit about the shutter.

I have a Zorki 4 and that one has to be cocked first.

If I do a gentle refinish, are there any good tricks for reblacking the covering/grip bit...? I think i'd like to go with authenticity rather than wacky...!

Cheers

 

[wolves3012]

If I do a gentle refinish, are there any good tricks for reblacking the covering/grip bit...? I think i'd like to go with authenticity rather than wacky...!
Cheers

What covering does it have now? Later ones have a nylon ribbed covering glued on, early ones are vulcanite. The vulcanite is not coloured right through and wears to a grey colour eventually. You could strip it all off but it's quite a task. The nylon covering can be removed without much trouble and used as a template for an adhesive-back leather/fake leather material.

For the painted trims, find an enamel paint and touch it up. It'll take some time to harden fully, so handle gently. I've re-painted bodies with enamel then baked them in the oven but this is no use for a complete camera!

You could just leave it and use it. If it's mechanically good that's better than good cosmetics and non-working.

 

[OMboy]

It's a vulcanite covering I think - it isn't ribbed.

I wondered if it the vulcanite can be over-painted with something rather than trying to remove it...?
The enamel paint trick sounds straighforward on the black edges - thanks.

You're right, I could leave it and just use it but I thought if it wasn't too complicated to tart it up a bit, why not...😀

It's mechanically sound and is in excellent condition with no dings, dents or scratches and just looks tired (bit like me).

 

[wolves3012]

It's a vulcanite covering I think - it isn't ribbed.

I wondered if it the vulcanite can be over-painted with something rather than trying to remove it...?
The enamel paint trick sounds straighforward on the black edges - thanks.

You're right, I could leave it and just use it but I thought if it wasn't too complicated to tart it up a bit, why not...😀

It's mechanically sound and is in excellent condition with no dings, dents or scratches and just looks tired (bit like me).

it's possible to paint the vulcanite but you need something that is slightly flexible since the covering has a slight "give" to it. Any paint that is hard is likely to peel off. A rubber-based paint would be best. I've never actually tried it but masonry paint is often rubber-based and might work, though it can also be tacky. Someone else may have a better suggestion...