alistair.o
Well-known
Hi,
I am in developing mode and have come to the note in the film I made approx 10 days age to remind me of what a fool can do (that's me!)
I shot a roll of Tri-X at 400 for the first ten shots and then a couple of days later shot the rest at 100! thinking I had Agfa APX 100 in the camera as I'd left the Agfa tag in the holder...
Now the science part: would you recommend that I stand develop this roll in Rodinal (for arguments sake) @ 1:100 or how would you tackle it?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Al
I am in developing mode and have come to the note in the film I made approx 10 days age to remind me of what a fool can do (that's me!)
I shot a roll of Tri-X at 400 for the first ten shots and then a couple of days later shot the rest at 100! thinking I had Agfa APX 100 in the camera as I'd left the Agfa tag in the holder...
Now the science part: would you recommend that I stand develop this roll in Rodinal (for arguments sake) @ 1:100 or how would you tackle it?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Al
dogbunny
Registered Boozer
Good news is, you've got the best film in the camera. The rest can be sorted.
tlitody
Well-known
Hi,
I am in developing mode and have come to the note in the film I made approx 10 days age to remind me of what a fool can do (that's me!)
I shot a roll of Tri-X at 400 for the first ten shots and then a couple of days later shot the rest at 100! thinking I had Agfa APX 100 in the camera as I'd left the Agfa tag in the holder...
Now the science part: would you recommend that I stand develop this roll in Rodinal (for arguments sake) @ 1:100 or how would you tackle it?
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Al
Yes stand development or any two bath compensating developer should give you useable negatives.
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
Two stops shouldn´t be too much of a problem. I most familiar with Caffenol, which has compensational qualities, I´ve heard not too dissimilar to Rodinal. And I´ve exposed TMY-2 with EI´s of 100, 200, 400, 800 and 1600 on the same roll, and they came out more or less equal. The main difference being grain, and some shadow detail. But all negatives could be used.
alistair.o
Well-known
Thanks for replies. Rodinal it is then.
I plan to stand develop 1:100
Al
I plan to stand develop 1:100
Al
Ezzie
E. D. Russell Roberts
The idea is, as you probably know, that Rodinal stand development will allow for uneven development of shadows and highlights. The developer will exhaust itself developing the highlights first, enabling the shadows to catch up. I´m going to stand develop some films in Caffenol-C-L soon, and hope to see even better control of the highlights than with agitated development.
Good luck
Good luck
alistair.o
Well-known
Thanks Ezzie. I'm actually reading up on 'stand developing' using this thread:-
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61643&page=3
Good Luck to you also. Look forward to seeing the results.
Al
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61643&page=3
Good Luck to you also. Look forward to seeing the results.
Al
tlitody
Well-known
Just be aware that stand development sometimes causes uneven development with some developers. Seems to be unpredictable.
ath
Well-known
Just process for 400 ASA (i.e. normal) and be happy about the plentiful shadow details in the 100 ASA shots. The rest can be sorted in the darkroom.
alistair.o
Well-known
Thanks to all for the help on this 'problem film'. I eventually settled on Stand develop in Rodinal for 60mins.
I put the Kodak TriX and a roll of Rollei Retro 100 in the same tank. The results are quite surprising to me. Here is one from the TriX.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=160628
I put the Kodak TriX and a roll of Rollei Retro 100 in the same tank. The results are quite surprising to me. Here is one from the TriX.
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=160628
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