Filmsprocket in Leica IIIf

Hi Ron,
I came across this site.

http://pentax-manuals.com/repairs.htm

You can find PDF as follows:

- Servicing M series Leicas
- Servicing Focal Plane Shutters
- Servicing Screw Mount Leicas
- Leica IIIf Repair Manual
- Leica Basic Repair Manual

I have no connection to the above link. Please see the home page for copyright and other information on use of the material.

Rgds, C
 
Ron,

The pentax-manuals site is Kim Coxon from here at RFF, and I can vouch for these books (the IIIf manual is the same one suggested to you on the L forum). I know because Kim hosts these for me.

It sounds like there is something assebled wrongly - the sutter release rod should catch on the wind dog as soon as you move the winder knob. Something is 180 degrees out - perfectly possible if it has been dismantled by a complete noddy user.

I have a couple of other service manuals at home (edit😱ops - deleted due to no downloads!) - I'll have a look and see if there is anything useful.
 
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If the knob turns almost one full revolution before it's able to cock the shutter, it prbably means that the engaging pin at the bottom of the release button ("A"- refer to the attached picture)is somewhat sticky, etc.Further cleaning can probably fix this.

Also check the position of the main flat spring ("B"). Slightly untighten screws E and F and shift the lever very slightly to all sides. You should see some improvement in how the release button pin engages with sprocket wheel's pin. Once the ideal position is found, tighten secrews E and F again.

The screw that you found in your IIIf ("C") apparently has no real use in cameras without self-timers. Your IIIf looks to be without one. One end of that screw engages with the sliding brass part ("D") which in turn is connected to the delayed release mechanism. This mechanism pulls the sliding brass part down. and this action pulls the screw down, bears on the flat spring below, which causes the shutter to release.

Since your camera doesn't have the selftimer, you can largely ignore this screw. However in cameras with ST, the position of the screw is critical. This can only be positioned when the shutter crate is fully disassembled.

354382288.jpg
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Ron,

The pentax-manuals site is Kim Coxon from here at RFF, and I can vouch for these books (the IIIf manual is the same one suggested to you on the L forum). I know because Kim hosts these for me.

It sounds like there is something assebled wrongly - the sutter release rod should catch on the wind dog as soon as you move the winder knob. Something is 180 degrees out - perfectly possible if it has been dismantled by a complete noddy user.

I have a couple of other service manuals at home (and the National book is available here: http://rapidshare.com/files/157506734/X-2_-_NatCam_IIIf.pdf.html) - I'll have a look and see if there is anything useful.

Thanks John, well I found a 3D image in the IIIf manual and you might be right about that something is not dismantled as it should, at least not put together afterwards in the right way. Still I think I can only find out by dismantling it myself.

Below the drawing that I found.

Also thanks to Shimokita for pointing me to this manual with this drawing.

Also thanks to Zorkikat for his/her response, however in my case, the engaging pin A is picked up well by sprocket part C (in your picture), but C is not picked up right away by the upper part of the sprocket (in the picture nr. 42 216-58). And indeed it is a IIIf without the timer.

sprocket.jpg
 
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PROBLEM FIXED!!!!,
thank you all for your responses. Zorkikat actually provided the fix (and JC in the Leica forum with his handbook on the LTM Leica). Although the problem seemed to occur in the upper part of the sprocket, it actually had to do with the below part, i.e. the part with the engaging pin and below that, there is a round part with the ball bearings (kugellager). When firing the shutter, I saw in my other screwmount Leicas, that the ball bearing part has to swing (spin) freely around when the shutter fired. In my IIIf however the part only turned in part and knocked the sprocket away from its starting position, therefore the above part of the sprocket could not catch up anymore with the below (large) part. When I removed the old grease on the ball bearing part, it started to spin freely, and hence the sprocket was not knocked away anymore.
Glad I could fix it without taking the sprocket apart, and can go cleaning and lubing the rest..
 
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