Sailor Ted
Well-known
I ordered the camera for a trip to Hong Kong and China. Let me say this is the best digital camera I have ever owned and I'm now a confirmed Digital shooter.
As a side after just three days the camera developed a vertical alignment issue and will need to be fixed when I return home. Please if anyone has advise on how to do the vertical alignment on an R-D1s (read "s") please let me know.'
As a side after just three days the camera developed a vertical alignment issue and will need to be fixed when I return home. Please if anyone has advise on how to do the vertical alignment on an R-D1s (read "s") please let me know.'
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Sailor Ted
Well-known
jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
Nice shots! They really give a sense of the energy of the place.
If you got a warranty with your camera, then I would suggest dealing with it that way; if nothing else, it helps remind Epson that there is a demand for servicing on these cameras!
Still, if you later want to do it yourself... The best information we've been able to gather here on RFF is that the R-D1s is mechanically identical to the R-D1; the only difference is that the R-D1s came with updated firmware, which had to be applied to the R-D1 as a software update.
So, the instructions you've seen on RFF should apply to your camera. tmessenger's post was especially good in terms of identifying which screws do what adjustments. He did his by removing the top cover, though, which shouldn't be necessary for a simple vertical alignment. There's an older post in the R-D 1 forum which explains how to remove the accessory shoe and access the adjustments from there. The only thing that's a bit tricky about doing it that way is that the screw you need to turn is slightly under the edge of the opening under the accessory shoe, so you have to put your screwdriver at a slight angle to reach it.
Still, going through the shoe is a pretty safe way of doing it -- if you use soft tools such as toothpicks to remove the shoe's cover spring, there's very little risk of marring the camera, and if you remove the shoe and find that what you see inside doesn't match up with what you've read in the posts, then you just put the shoe back on and no harm done.
Sailor Ted said:As a side after just three days the camera developed a vertical alignment issue and will need to be fixed when I return home. Please if anyone has advise on how to do the vertical alignment on an R-D1s (read "s") please let me know.'
If you got a warranty with your camera, then I would suggest dealing with it that way; if nothing else, it helps remind Epson that there is a demand for servicing on these cameras!
Still, if you later want to do it yourself... The best information we've been able to gather here on RFF is that the R-D1s is mechanically identical to the R-D1; the only difference is that the R-D1s came with updated firmware, which had to be applied to the R-D1 as a software update.
So, the instructions you've seen on RFF should apply to your camera. tmessenger's post was especially good in terms of identifying which screws do what adjustments. He did his by removing the top cover, though, which shouldn't be necessary for a simple vertical alignment. There's an older post in the R-D 1 forum which explains how to remove the accessory shoe and access the adjustments from there. The only thing that's a bit tricky about doing it that way is that the screw you need to turn is slightly under the edge of the opening under the accessory shoe, so you have to put your screwdriver at a slight angle to reach it.
Still, going through the shoe is a pretty safe way of doing it -- if you use soft tools such as toothpicks to remove the shoe's cover spring, there's very little risk of marring the camera, and if you remove the shoe and find that what you see inside doesn't match up with what you've read in the posts, then you just put the shoe back on and no harm done.
Sailor Ted
Well-known
Sailor Ted
Well-known
Sailor Ted
Well-known
IGMeanwell
Well-known
alot of interesting shots you got there
for s&g 's you should take it out and shoot in the B&W mode
possibly with your noctilux?
for s&g 's you should take it out and shoot in the B&W mode
possibly with your noctilux?
Sailor Ted
Well-known
Thank you. s&g?
PS. the first shot on the first post was shot with my Noctilux
It gave a "home sweet home" feeling to the "hive" that is Hong Kong living.
PSS. I could live here and have many many more shots to share when I return.
bye for now
PS. the first shot on the first post was shot with my Noctilux
PSS. I could live here and have many many more shots to share when I return.
bye for now
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jlw
Rangefinder camera pedant
Sailor Ted said:last try to get more then "one more" :angel:
I especially like the second one -- somehow it just says "modern Asia" to me.
But what on earth is that thing that looks like the top half of a human skull, visible between the scooter and the girder?
wintoid
Back to film
jlw said:The best information we've been able to gather here on RFF is that the R-D1s is mechanically identical to the R-D1; the only difference is that the R-D1s came with updated firmware, which had to be applied to the R-D1 as a software update.
I was under the impression that noone has worked out how to adjust the RD1s so far because the screws are in different positions and may even be inactive. This, coupled with the fact that the RD1s is heavier than the RD1, means that the 2 cameras are not mechanically identical.
For that reason, I've sent my RD1s back to Robert White for focus adjustment. I'd love to be pleasantly surprised and learn that we can adjust RD1s focus ourselves though...
d_e
Member
Nice shots, for the wide angle photos did you use the CV 12 mostly?
ampguy
Veteran
very nice photos, do you recall what "film mode" you're using? were they shot in jpg or raw?
pfogle
Well-known
I hadn't heard this before... do you have any references for this? I was under the impression the only difference was the firmware ???wintoid said:I was under the impression that noone has worked out how to adjust the RD1s so far because the screws are in different positions and may even be inactive. This, coupled with the fact that the RD1s is heavier than the RD1, means that the 2 cameras are not mechanically identical....
wintoid
Back to film
pfogle said:I hadn't heard this before... do you have any references for this? I was under the impression the only difference was the firmware ???
Here's an example of someone talking about the RF alignment screws being different for the RD1s...
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=431127&postcount=24
Here's a post I started a while back about what Amateur Photographer had to say about the RD1 vs RD1s. You were involved in that discussion pfogle
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26224
As for the difference in weight, well somewhat embarrassingly I can only find comments by myself on this subject. I didn't just make it up, honest. I read it somewhere, but of course that doesn't mean it's true. I've checked the Epson literature, and it would seem that I am wrong. Please accept my apologies for that.
Sailor Ted
Well-known
ampguy said:very nice photos, do you recall what "film mode" you're using? were they shot in jpg or raw?
I shoot in RAW and STANDARD on the film mode. I "tweek" the shots in Epson RAW with as little changes as possible- usually the "grey" picker for white point, and little or no vignetting correction and no sharpening- ever. I then save to a 16 bit TIFF file. I then open the TIFF file in Photoshop and save as a JPG. Simple.
Thanks for the compliment :angel:
Sailor Ted
Well-known
d_e said:Nice shots, for the wide angle photos did you use the CV 12 mostly?
Yes the CV 12mm and my 21mm Zeiss are my favorite lens for this camera and my shooting style.
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ampguy
Veteran
thanks for the info.
thanks for the info.
maybe my first reason to upgrade to "s" firmware, the raw + jpg instead of combined.
With the old fw, I just get 3 film settings, in the "s" fw, is there just a single "film" mode?
thanks for the info.
maybe my first reason to upgrade to "s" firmware, the raw + jpg instead of combined.
With the old fw, I just get 3 film settings, in the "s" fw, is there just a single "film" mode?
Sailor Ted said:I shoot in RAW and STANDARD on the film mode. I "tweek" the shots in Epson RAW with as little changes as possible- usually the "grey" picker for white point, and little or no vignetting correction and no sharpening- ever. I then save to a 16 bit TIFF file. I then open the TIFF file in Photoshop and save as a JPG. Simple.
Thanks for the compliment :angel:
Sailor Ted
Well-known
A question from a digital noob for the R-D1 professionals. Can DAG allign my range finder? If so what is the typical turn around and cost? I love this camera and do not want to part with it for long. I'm actually thinking about a second body as I've found my photo soul mate in the R-D1s
Thanks in advance
PS. I'm getting 200 plus photos from one battery
Thanks in advance
PS. I'm getting 200 plus photos from one battery
summilux
Well-known
Sailor Ted: well done! something less dynamic from me, but with the same camera.
epson R-D1s with Biogon 25/2.8 ZM
epson R-D1s with Biogon 25/2.8 ZM
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thafred
silver addict
Wonderfull shots you got there! I really like the way the RD1 performs (but I´m rather investing in film 
I´d strongly advice against doing the RF alignment yourself since it´s more coplicated than just getting the vertical al. right. If you adjust the screw for vertical alignment you automaticaly change the RF infinity setting and it has to be carefully matched. I did this with my BessaR and it´s a pain in the a$$ to get both settings rigt and even if you adjust infinity on say the moon it´s possible that the near focus is far off! (this is what happened to me my R doesn´t match inf. in the rf spot but is spot on in the near range with a 1.5 50mm/checked with ground glass and loupe! must be a pain when you have no ground glass because of the sensor)
just my 2ct.
I´d strongly advice against doing the RF alignment yourself since it´s more coplicated than just getting the vertical al. right. If you adjust the screw for vertical alignment you automaticaly change the RF infinity setting and it has to be carefully matched. I did this with my BessaR and it´s a pain in the a$$ to get both settings rigt and even if you adjust infinity on say the moon it´s possible that the near focus is far off! (this is what happened to me my R doesn´t match inf. in the rf spot but is spot on in the near range with a 1.5 50mm/checked with ground glass and loupe! must be a pain when you have no ground glass because of the sensor)
just my 2ct.
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