Kat
Well-known
Finally, I got back my first roll, using a Fuji ProPlus 100 film. Pics came out as nicely sharp as the camera promised to be (attaching one below, others are in the link). Needless to say, I'm very happy with it. 
However, I had some problems with a few shots, I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what I did wrong. The last picture of the two dogs seem to have come out with a reddish cast. In the 3 next-last shots, most of the image comes out fine, then one side gets washed out. Is this a light/flare problem? Would a hood cure it?
Also, the skies always gets blown out and appear just as a bright white mass. Do you guys have any tips how I can work on that? I would appreciate any help. Thanks!
http://photobucket.com/albums/v196/nicoandfriends/Yashica GS shots/?sc=1&multi=15
However, I had some problems with a few shots, I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what I did wrong. The last picture of the two dogs seem to have come out with a reddish cast. In the 3 next-last shots, most of the image comes out fine, then one side gets washed out. Is this a light/flare problem? Would a hood cure it?
Also, the skies always gets blown out and appear just as a bright white mass. Do you guys have any tips how I can work on that? I would appreciate any help. Thanks!
http://photobucket.com/albums/v196/nicoandfriends/Yashica GS shots/?sc=1&multi=15
Last edited:
QuillianSW
Sad Sack In Baghdad
Ah, the red color cast - it's a white balance problem - difficult in daylight shooting to predict with film. You can of course fix this with photoshop post processing, but to avoid getting pictures with a reddish cast in the first place - since you weren't using Tungsten film, weren't using flash, etc., the only thing I can postulate is "old film" or "funny filter," presuming there wasn't funny lighting reflecting off some red surface nearby. As far as highlights being blown out, smarter minds than mine will probably answer, but the best I could have done was meter for the shadows, freeze the exposure (or manually adjust), recompose and shoot. If you're curious, here's a link to Schnieder Optic's B&W (filter) handbook: http://www.schneideroptics.com/filt...photography/handbook/pdf/B+WHandbook16_23.pdf
iggers
Established
Nice photos. What tropical locale is it?
Kat
Well-known
Thanks, Stone. I guess there is a lot more factors that have to be considered in using RFs over the digital I'm used to, and it's a little tougher to see them coming.
I seem to have some trouble opening the pdf, though. I will try searching for it.
Thanks, iggers. The pics were taken in the Philippines, aside from the buildings, the others were taken in an old park/cemetery.
Thanks, iggers. The pics were taken in the Philippines, aside from the buildings, the others were taken in an old park/cemetery.
K
Kin Lau
Guest
For the reddish pics, assuming that the scans are from prints, I would say your 1hr automatic photo processor got fooled.
As for the skies looking blown out, that's normal. The negative probably still has the details, but the print is the limiting factor. If this was b&w or you're scanning your own from the negs, then you can "burn" that part in.
If the skies are blue, then a polarizer _may_ help by turning the sky a bit darker, but there's limits to that.
As for the skies looking blown out, that's normal. The negative probably still has the details, but the print is the limiting factor. If this was b&w or you're scanning your own from the negs, then you can "burn" that part in.
If the skies are blue, then a polarizer _may_ help by turning the sky a bit darker, but there's limits to that.
Kat
Well-known
Thanks, Kin Lau. The negatives were scanned by the lab when I had them developed. I'll see how the skies will come out in print.
R
RichardS
Guest
Shoot a roll of slide film and check the slides. If you don't have the same problems then you know it is the lab's fault.
Dick
Dick
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