ptarmigan
Member
I pick up my shiny new black M8 in just over a week. Now I need to decide on what lens to get first. I anticipate ultimately ending up with 24 or 28, 35 and 75mm lenses.
So what to get first? I am new to rangefinders so it's difficult to know where to start first.
I also shoot a Nikon D2x and have mostly bought second hand but I'm a little nervous with the thought of s/h Leica lenses as I know so much less about them. Also what about '6-bit' and coding of non coded lenses, can I do this myself or is it an expensive and long wait to send to Leica?
Or can I manage without coding?
Any advice welcome.
So what to get first? I am new to rangefinders so it's difficult to know where to start first.
I also shoot a Nikon D2x and have mostly bought second hand but I'm a little nervous with the thought of s/h Leica lenses as I know so much less about them. Also what about '6-bit' and coding of non coded lenses, can I do this myself or is it an expensive and long wait to send to Leica?
Or can I manage without coding?
Any advice welcome.
elshaneo
Panographer
Go for the 28mm and 35mm lenses as your very first lenses !!!
ampguy
Veteran
I'd get a 35mm first - should provide you with a feel for what you want next. I like 28 to 75, 90 is just a bit long.
Photon42
burn the box
Put UVIR filters on every lens. Leica or B+W doesn't matter. Coding is required for lenses with a focal length shorter than 35mm. Some say 35mm and shorter. Second hand is no problem. Permanent coding can be done yourself. With respect to resale value I wouldn't do it for Leica lenses, if you're not an expert.
As you've used already a D2X, you probably know what you need in terms of lenses. Just because you ask explicitly:
I'd go for a (latest version) Elmarit 28 first. It's a bargain in terms of Leica prices, it is already coded and it very well fits to the smaller footprint of a rangefinder. Use it for a while and find out, what else you need.
Cheers
Ivo
As you've used already a D2X, you probably know what you need in terms of lenses. Just because you ask explicitly:
I'd go for a (latest version) Elmarit 28 first. It's a bargain in terms of Leica prices, it is already coded and it very well fits to the smaller footprint of a rangefinder. Use it for a while and find out, what else you need.
Cheers
Ivo
Ken Shipman
Well-known
If you tend to prefer the 50mm perspective on film, start with a 35mm lens for the M8. If you like something a little wider like 35mm on film then start with the 28mm on the M8. In either case try to find one already 6-bit coded and put a UV/IR filter on it. Have fun!
AusDLK
Famous Photographer
To my surprise, the Nokton 35mm f/1.2 lens is by far my most frequently used lens on my M8.2. I just bought a Ultron 28mm f/2 and will leave this on the camera for awhile.
Both had the 6-bit flange modification done by John Milich. (I met John and saw his operation on a recent trip to Brooklyn.)
I have several others lenses to choose from (Tri-Elmar, 18mm ZM, 35mm & 50mm Summicrons) but I have rarely used them. I also have a new (to me) WATE in wings to try.
But my recommendation is the 35mm f/1.2. Lots of fun.
Both had the 6-bit flange modification done by John Milich. (I met John and saw his operation on a recent trip to Brooklyn.)
I have several others lenses to choose from (Tri-Elmar, 18mm ZM, 35mm & 50mm Summicrons) but I have rarely used them. I also have a new (to me) WATE in wings to try.
But my recommendation is the 35mm f/1.2. Lots of fun.
efftee
Newbie
I'm curious, how does the Nokton measure up to the Summicron? The f1.2 would be really welcomed, but any notable differences in image quality?
b.espahbod
Optophile
28 f/2 cron, 35 f/2 pre-asph, 75 lux
Gabriel M.A.
My Red Dot Glows For You
And it's also as big as a fist! :angel:
It is a very good lens, but I don't think it's a good choice as a "first" lens. I think something small and with a modest aperture would be good for someone who isn't accustomed to focusing with a rangefinder (what with the focusing practice issues and then sending novices to spawn a bunch of "my camera doesn't focus properly!" threads on the Interwebs).
I'd say that the CV 35mm f/2.5 is a good starting point. Cheap, small, and hard to displease.
gdi
Veteran
I second the CV 35 Skopar - I was just going to suggest it before you beat me to it.
I think it is a good idea to start with a small lens then work up to the Telyt 560/Visoflex/Rifle Stock Combo...
spikey
Dilettant
28/f2 summicron ASPH
28/f2 summicron ASPH
this is the 'one lens' I personally see on my m8
bought mine used when picking up the M8 and - well, I just think it's worth a closer look
28/f2 summicron ASPH
this is the 'one lens' I personally see on my m8
bought mine used when picking up the M8 and - well, I just think it's worth a closer look
mimaki
Member
35mm Skopar 
philipp.leser
Established
I would start with a 28-40mm lens as far as the focal length is concerned. All currently produced lenses are excellent, be it CV, Leica or Zeiss. It comes down to what you can afford: CV makes excellent lenses for (a lot) less than $1000, while Leica starts beyond that mark and delivers a level of quality beyond any doubt.
eleskin
Well-known
35mm summicron Version 4 Canadian
35mm summicron Version 4 Canadian
35 f2.0 Sumicron, Canadian Version 4 (King of bokeh).
I have had it since 1992, and have never had a problem.
Sharp at all f stops
Amazing bokeh!
Amazing shadow detail!!!!
Use it for 80% of my shots!!!
Cost me $800 in 92 used, now between $1000-$1,500 used.
35mm summicron Version 4 Canadian
35 f2.0 Sumicron, Canadian Version 4 (King of bokeh).
I have had it since 1992, and have never had a problem.
Sharp at all f stops
Amazing bokeh!
Amazing shadow detail!!!!
Use it for 80% of my shots!!!
Cost me $800 in 92 used, now between $1000-$1,500 used.
maggieo
More Deadly
I'll third that suggestion, as it really is a great lens at a great price.
That said, I use my 35/1.4 Nokton Classic more. I've gotten into a groove with it and my particular copy is free of a lot of the reported problems, unlike my first copy (which Sean Reid tested), which was kind of crappy.
ptarmigan
Member
You make several assumptions which are incorrect, Firstly I have well over 30 years experience as a photographer - obviously starting out with manual focus lenses. I still run an OM1, OM2n and OM4ti though they don't get much use these days. I understand pre focus, zone focusing DOF and currently regularly use manual focus when using my 50 and 85 f1.4 lenses on the D2x. I am fully aware of the focus shift on most lenses and that certain Leica lenses are better some worse - I've done my homework.
Finally, digital is much more focus critical than film ever was and I don't see the M8 as any different.
Photon42
burn the box
I've moved from the SLR approach not so long back myself. I found the focusing experience different to what I was used before. Not a problem at all, just different. I think rangefinders excel specifically on their form factor and their way of seeing the subject - that's why I believe a small lens would be a nice contrepoint to your DSLR.
Recent Leica lenses are coded, so you can just shoot away. Other lenses shorter than 35mm require coding "treatment", when used for color work. Depending on your personal tendency to get involved into modifications or sending lenses / flanges around, this may or may not put you off.
I've used a 2/35 Biogon as a first lens, flange coded.
Cheers
Ivo
ampguy
Veteran
using 28/2.8 with color, great images
using 28/2.8 with color, great images
no issues with corners, or colors, even blacks. Lens is 50+ years old. M8 has latest firmware, set to not coded, no filter. Lens has no filter on it (and no coding).
I think maybe 24 or 21 may need coding with color.
using 28/2.8 with color, great images
no issues with corners, or colors, even blacks. Lens is 50+ years old. M8 has latest firmware, set to not coded, no filter. Lens has no filter on it (and no coding).
I think maybe 24 or 21 may need coding with color.
Photon42
burn the box
That must've been it
Seriously, I do believe this can be experienced with respect to magenta cast, as it heavily depends on subject and light. I wasn't believing it myself completely, unless I reviewed shots of my son and a specific pullover. Some shots were OK, but then there were some with evident trace of magenta.
The cyan cast in corners may or may not be disturbing. Shoot a white area with correct WB with and without filter + coding to see it yourself. Or check out Sean Reids tests.
Kind regards
Ivo
yanidel
Well-known
I have owned the 35 skopar, 35 Nokton 1.2 and 35 Cron IV ... they are all great ... but if budget is no issue, go for the 35 Summilux Asph, it is in another league.