Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
Weather here on the wet coast is,well,really wet and I was wanting to do some indoor flash photography.BUT,I presently have a Vivitar 283 and 2800 flash units.( I've tried some searching here,but it's rather cumbersome.) Is there anyone here with experience using either (or both) of these units? Is there a potential problem using either one? Any direction is much appreciated!!!
Regards,a new Mamiya 7 owner,Peter
Regards,a new Mamiya 7 owner,Peter
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
I'm not sure if I read it here,but I believe there was mention of a device that is used to lower the flash voltage the camera might see if it were subjected to a high voltage flash unit.Not sure if I'm explaining this correctly,but any help would be great.Thanks in advance,Peter
kmallick
Well-known
I think you are refrring to the Hot SHoe Safe Sync device like this one:
If I were you, I would measure the voltage output on the Vivitar 283 you have and make sure that it is not high. You can google for more information on this.
I decided to take the safer route and got the newer Vivitar 285 HV which supposedly has the safe voltage. It works very well with my Mamiya 7 II.
sevo
Fokutorendaburando
The 283 is a early seventies design with 260V up trigger voltage, and is unsafe for pretty much anything beyond tough mechanical switches - hard working press photographers even managed to wear out the flash contacts on the Nikon F2 with flashes of that type and generation.
The 2800 is younger (and smaller), and reportedly has a trigger voltage in the 20V range - unsafe for many digital cameras, but within the original nominal specs for hot shoe and PC sockets. In practice it should probably do on the Mamiya 7 (I've certainly fired tons of studio flashes with 24V trigger on the Mamiya 6 and RZ67, which both ought to be closely related regarding the shutter electronics), but according to one posting on flickr Mamiya state that trigger voltages on the 7 should be limited to 6V (which however sounds suspiciously low - perhaps a lazy answer erring to the safe side rather than the result of any internal research), so YMMV.
RObert Budding
D'oh!
I use late-model Metz speed lights. The 'Auto' mode is excellent when you need to shoot quickly, and 'Manual' mode is easily set.
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
Thanks everyone for getting back to me! This camera is new to me and is without
a doubt the most I've ever spent on a camera,xmas money went into a 50mm ( to go along with the 80mm it came with) and it'd be a heart breaker damage it with a flash unit.So thanks again,Peter
a doubt the most I've ever spent on a camera,xmas money went into a 50mm ( to go along with the 80mm it came with) and it'd be a heart breaker damage it with a flash unit.So thanks again,Peter
Moto-Uno
Moto-Uno
As a follow up concerning this question,I emailed Wein and received two replies,both of which stated that I didn't need a Wein safe sync if I was using a Vivitar 283 with either my Mamiya 7 or my Bronica ETR models.( This was after inquiring about which model of their product they would suggest I buy to prevent damage to either of these cameras.) Pretty respectable business practices in these tighter times.
Regards,Peter
Regards,Peter
Bob Michaels
nobody special
283s & 285s have been built in various forms by various manufacturers in various countries for a long long time.
Going from memory (research yourself)
* the first models show Japan as the country of manufacture. They all have unsafe high sync voltage.
* the second generation were built in Korea. Some have high sync voltage, some are safe.
* The most recent ones were made in Taiwan and are supposed to have a safe sync voltage.
Personally, I would test any of the Korean or Taiwanese ones to be sure. I have never had a problem caused by my 285s but I don't want to be responsible for your electronics.
Going from memory (research yourself)
* the first models show Japan as the country of manufacture. They all have unsafe high sync voltage.
* the second generation were built in Korea. Some have high sync voltage, some are safe.
* The most recent ones were made in Taiwan and are supposed to have a safe sync voltage.
Personally, I would test any of the Korean or Taiwanese ones to be sure. I have never had a problem caused by my 285s but I don't want to be responsible for your electronics.
1joel1
Well-known
I have used the Nikon SB28DX in the past and it worked flawlessly. They can be picked up at a very reasonable price these days.
Joel
Joel